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Indiana Jones Was Right: Zendaya’s Earrings Belong In A Museum
When did valuable historical artifacts become red carpet accessories?
At the London photocall for the new Christopher Nolan adaptation of The Odyssey, actress Zendaya wore a pair of 3,000-year-old Iranian gold discs as earrings, intended as a nod to the film’s ancient setting and her role as the goddess Athena. The earrings were beautiful for the exact same reason they should not have been worn: these are 3,000-year-old artifacts of an ancient civilization with immense historical value.
Looking at these earrings, I find myself agreeing with Indiana Jones: that belongs in a museum.
Artifacts such as these gold discs ought to be protected and preserved so that we can further learn from and about them. Instead, jeweler Glenn Spiro, who openly has a lax relationship with provenance, mounted the discs onto gold and diamonds to turn them into earrings a fashion-forward starlet would be proud to wear as part of his collection, Materials of the Old World.
Not only are the pieces of this collection putting at risk incredible and historically important pieces by marketing them for the type of wear that could permanently damage them, but the jewelry itself is an alteration tantamount to destruction. Zendaya did not simply carelessly wear ancient Iranian jewelry, but discs warped into earrings by contemporary hubris.
After Spiro’s alteration and Zendaya’s red carpet jaunt, these discs are no longer just treasures of a bygone civilization, but also a prop in a contemporary jeweler’s collection and a celebrity’s red carpet lookbook. This addition changes their story and meaning through modernization.
Maybe someday, these earrings will be seen as a compelling continuation of a beautiful object between two cultures, such as the Chalice of the Abbot Suger of Saint-Denis, a stunning 12th-century French mounting of a First-century BC Alexandrian cup, but I’d be loath to compare a Medieval Cathedral’s chalice for Mass with red carpet jewelry.
Now, justified or not, these pieces are a part of Zendaya’s story. Her brand can turn thousands of years of history into a fun fact, a footnote for the fashion, rather than the other way around.
And this story neither begins nor ends with the earrings. There has been a long history of dealers and collectors dismantling and repurposing ancient artifacts for profit and contemporary fashion at the cost of historical context and understanding.
I love estate jewelry, but there’s a huge difference between a well-preserved Edwardian ring and ancient Egyptian or Roman beads restrung into contemporary pieces. The former maintains continuity while the latter obscures the provenance of the original piece and limits, if not destroys, what archeological evidence could be found to date or further contextualize the artifacts in an effort to make them more consumable.
More modern history has similarly been rifled through for one night of glamour and press attention. Kim Kardashian attended the 2022 Met Gala in the gown Marilyn Monroe notoriously serenaded President John F. Kennedy on his birthday. The gown is shifting in the cultural imagination from the iconic “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” dress to “that Marilyn Monroe dress Kim Kardashian borrowed.”
Fears of the historic dress being permanently damaged were likewise proven justified when, after her red carpet appearance, the fabric was stretched, seams were torn, and crystals were missing. Whether they were from Kardashian’s wearing or past mistreatment from previous owners, this damage makes one fact unmistakably clear: historic artifacts are not safe on red carpets or in closets.
The impulse to play dress-up with historical treasures is an understandable one, as many women who have visited the V&A’s fashion history and jewelry collections or the National Museum of American History’s First Ladies exhibition can attest. The craftsmanship, beauty, and weight of history imbue these museum-quality pieces with an unmistakable fascination. But the exact cause for the fantasy is why it ought not be fulfilled.
Our understanding of world history and these long-gone cultures is strengthened and even shaped by the art and artifacts archaeologists discover and museums maintain. Well-preserved pieces such as these discs are exciting finds for collectors or curators, as their sheer physical beauty and outstanding condition just beg to be admired and studied carefully.
“Grave-robbing chic” is dangerous, not stylish. Historic artifacts belong in museums where they can be properly preserved, studied, and enjoyed by the public for generations, not on a red carpet to be photographed and then forgotten.
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Paulina Enck is the account executive at Renegade DC.