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Hills and Hollers: Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride
The Nada Tunnel, a single-lane, unlit, 900-foot-long passageway through solid rock, is known as the “Gateway to Red River Gorge.” (Photos by the author)
“Holler” is how Appalachian folks pronounce “hollow,” which is a valley between hills or mountains. A holler has a mouth, where it meets a larger road, and a head, where the end prevents you from going any farther. The road through a holler is often gravel and runs next to a creek, and there’s usually a loose dog or two who seem to run the place.
My suspicions were confirmed by a local – I was indeed staying in a holler during my time in Beattyville, Kentucky. The only difference was that instead of this holler being lined with houses or trailers, it was lined with beautifully crafted log cabins.
Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER
My tour through the Appalachian Mountains of eastern Kentucky began about 20 minutes north of town in the Red River Gorge. This geological area is a major draw for rock climbers, hikers, backpackers, and outdoor enthusiasts of all types, including motorcyclists.
The go-to motorcycle road is the Eye of the Dragon, a 27-mile scenic route through the Red River Gorge area that’s promoted by Backroads of Appalachia, a nonprofit group whose aim is to draw tourists to the area. Using the group’s free app, one can access a variety of routes in the Appalachian area that are fun for on-road vehicles of all kinds.
Curves along the Eye of the Dragon scenic loop.
I began my journey around the Eye of the Dragon loop at the Red River Gorge Visitor Center at Slade. A friendly staff member marked up a map to show me the best sightseeing opportunities and restaurants along the route.
Before I set out on the loop, I headed up State Route 11 to Miguel’s Pizza. A search for “best pizza in Kentucky” will invariably list it as the top pick, with its yellow building and cheesy, bubbling pie. Behind the building is a campground that’s popular with rock climbers.
The overlook at Chimney Top Rock is 400 feet above the Red River and provides sweeping views of the gorge.
With a belly full of pizza, I set out on State Route 77, and the first natural attraction I came across was a doozy – the Nada Tunnel. Stretching 900 feet in length, it’s only 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. The tunnel has no interior lighting and is only wide enough for one vehicle at a time. To pass through, you edge up to the mouth of the tunnel to see if there are any oncoming headlights. If not, you proceed into the eerie, dark abyss. With only your headlights for illumination, you can just make out the wet pavement and the jagged rocks along the walls and ceiling. After creeping along slowly for the length of three football fields, you pop out into the light on the other side, back into the forest.
Continuing on SR-77, which runs along the Red River, I was greeted with lazy, twisting curves. Lined along this road are plenty of pullover parking spots, providing ample opportunity to stop and take in the scenery or snap a few photos.
Near Chimney Top Rock is the slender, elegant Princess Arch.
The next feature of the loop is a steel bridge, followed by a side road that leads to Sky Bridge Arch. A short hike on a mostly paved easy trail leads to the top of the massive stone formation.
I will admit that I was so terrified crossing this arch on foot, which is no wider than the Nada Tunnel and has no guardrails to prevent you from making the 100-plus-foot fall, that I texted my husband my location in case I fell off. While tiptoeing my way across, I was greeted with stunning views and a rushing sense of exhilaration, which were worth every trepidatious step.
Sky Bridge Arch is another standout rock formation in the Red River Gorge Geological Area, which features sandstone cliffs, rock shelters, natural arches, and waterfalls.
The Sky Bridge Trail loops around until you are under the arch. I made my way back to the parking lot along the three-quarter mile loop, which was easy enough to do in motorcycle gear, and continued to the next destination along the Eye of the Dragon.
A 4-mile ride down a packed dirt road strewn with gravel led me to my next stop – a twofer opportunity to view both Princess Arch and Chimney Top Rock, two rock formations found at the end of a quarter-mile hike. Princess Arch looked cute compared to the larger Sky Bridge but was lovely in its own right. Chimney Top Rock was lined with signs warning of the dangerous cliffs, which piqued my interest. I’m not sure if it’s the highest point in the area, but it certainly felt like it, with views that span for miles.
Having worked up an appetite from all this hiking, I rode to another stop recommended by the gentleman at the visitor center – Redpoint Barbeque – which served the best barbecue I’ve ever had, accompanied by baked beans and cornbread.
A tasty plate at Redpoint Barbeque.
Next, I checked in at the Hemlock Lodge at the Natural Bridge State Resort Park, where I was given the key to a lovely room. Curiosity led me to an enormous flight of stairs behind the lodge, which took me down to a swaying suspension bridge over a small manmade lake and Hoedown Island, which hosts square dance competitions.
The morning greeted me with steady rain that accompanied me during the 20-minute ride to Beattyville. This small burg, with a population of 2,000, has a blossoming downtown. Soggy and a little cold, I stopped at the most important building in any small town – the bakery – where I warmed up with a hot coffee and a banana pudding cupcake.
The rain played hide and seek as I strolled down Main Street. The well-maintained streets, lined with unique lampposts and no overhead electrical wires, contained cute shops like the Rose Bros. department store and the Blooming Sensations florist and gift shop. A few buildings were gutted and being renovated. One of them had strange, natural markings on the vertical beams near the ceiling – the water line, I was told, from a devastating flood in 2021.
Farmer’s market produce at Three Forks Historical Center.
Residents of Beattyville came together after the flood to rebuild downtown and the surrounding area. It’s a story of survival and community, and the silver lining is that the renovations allowed more businesses to open. The state and nationally accredited Downtown Beattyville Alliance is dedicated to keeping the city center vibrant.
Needing more sustenance than just a cupcake, I had an early lunch at Los Two Brothers, a Mexican restaurant on Main Street. I didn’t know what to expect from a south-of-the-border eatery in a small Appalachian town, but the tender chicken-and-cheese enchiladas were phenomenal.
Back on the bike, my next stop was the Three Forks Historical Center, a museum that preserves and showcases the history of the local area. As a bonus, inside were a variety of vendors for the weekly farmer’s market. A familiar experience repeated itself here. At first, I received stares and looks of confusion – not only was I an outsider, but a lone woman on a motorcycle. However, after a greeting and making a personal connection, I was welcomed wholeheartedly by the locals at every establishment I entered.
Downtown Beattyville.
As I weaved my way through tables, looking at handcrafted soaps and jewelry, hand-embroidered hats, and colorful produce, someone invited me to enjoy some live music later that night at Brenda’s BBQ Smoke Shack – the same place someone from Backroads of Appalachia claimed served some of the best food around.
Next, I visited Happy Top Park. Beattyville is proud to be the birthplace of the Kentucky River, and from this hilltop park you can see where the north and south forks converge to create the 260-mile-long river that supplies water to more than 700,000 Kentuckians.
Ready for an afternoon snack, I rode north on SR-11 to River Cantina, another restaurant recommended by locals. The salsa was bright, and my carnitas street tacos were delicious. I’d have a hard time choosing between Los Two Brothers and River Cantina, so if you come this way you should try both.
Buckhorn Lake Area Presbyterian Church.
That night I met up with my new friends at Brenda’s BBQ Smoke Shack. I enjoyed a pulled-pork sandwich with tender meat and flavorful sauce, served up by Brenda herself, while a one-man band played soulful country music in the dining room. It made for a lovely end to a jam-packed day of small-town enjoyment.
Due to some unseasonably cold weather, the next day I awoke to frost on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300. Luckily my heated grips and insulated jacket kept me cozy as I embarked on a day of backroads riding. Beattyville, the county seat of Lee County, is known for two motorcycle routes: Ride the River Dragon and Ridge Runner Road 587.
I started off with Ride the River Dragon, a 40-mile scenic route that starts in Beattyville and follows SR-11 to State Route 28 and ends at Buckhorn Lake State Resort Park. It was even chillier near the water and in the shade of the cliffs, which would make this ride perfect on a steamy summer day.
Beattyville’s Happy Top Park provides a sweeping view of the birthplace of the Kentucky River.
The first part of SR-11 was nondescript, but once on State Route 28, the curves started to pick up as the road flirts with the Burton Fork of the Kentucky River, winding close together, then out of sight, then back again. The fork varied from small and creek-like to wide and deep blue. Rolling hills surrounded me, often with sheer rock cliffs towering above me on one side and a drop off on the other. Guard rails were sporadic, lending to a thrilling but not too technical ride.
I passed the town of Buckhorn and its log cabin cathedral, the Buckhorn Lake Area Presbyterian Church. Built in 1928, the tall and spacious building, constructed of white oak logs from the surrounding mountains, cost a whopping $140 at the time.
Continuing on this curvy road, about 10 miles from the state park, the twisties really begin, with switchbacks and banked curves and even a couple of hairpins. It didn’t let up until I got to Buckhorn Lake State Resort Park. At the lodge, I had a tasty BLT at the Bowlingtown Country Kitchen, which is named after the town that had to be relocated when the lake project began in the 1960s.
My little cabin in Beattyville was a quiet refuge among the hills and hollers of Lee County.
After backtracking north on SR-11, I turned west on State Route 587 to begin the Ridge Runner Road 587, a 23-mile route through the hills and hollers of Daniel Boone National Forest. This is moonshine country, and the road winds its way through dark canopies of trees, over creeks (Duck Fork, Sturgeon Creek, and War Fork), and past turn-offs for desolate roads (Turkey Foot, Brushy Ridge, and Short Hollow, among others). SR-587 ends at U.S. Route 421, and just a few miles to the west is the town of McKee, where you can pick up Backroads of Appalachia’s 118-mile Freedom Ridge loop route.
After a full day of riding, I looked forward to pulling up to my little cabin in my very own holler. The Red River Gorge, Beattyville, and Lee County are a special part of eastern Kentucky that have much to offer travelers of all stripes, but especially riders like us.
See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.
Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride Resources
Backroads of Appalachia
Kentucky Tourism
Red River Gorge
Beattyville/Lee County, KY
Hemlock Lodge
Buckhorn Lake State Resort Park
Carly Becker lives to ride. If she’s not on her bike she can be found at her desk, writing about her motorcycle tours and moto camping trips. She lives in northern Kentucky with her husband, her dog, and her Kawasaki Versys-X 300.
The post Hills and Hollers: Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.
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