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Rainwater Harvesting 101: Collect and Store Water the Right Way
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Rainwater Harvesting 101: Collect and Store Water the Right Way

Thanks to changes in the climate, rainfall is becoming more and more unpredictable. One week may bring too much rainfall, and the next, not enough. If you rely on your land to produce food, you can’t afford to waste water. That’s why rainwater harvesting still matters. Rainwater harvesting is a process that lets you capture clean water during every storm and use it long after the clouds pass. The great thing about this method is that you won’t need complex equipment to make it happen. A rooftop, a barrel, and basic piping can give you stored water wherever and whenever you need it. Once it’s in place, the system will keep working season after season. What You Can Use Rainwater For Collected rainwater works well for outdoor tasks. Many homesteaders use it to keep gardens alive during dry spells. It also comes in handy for washing tools, rinsing feed trays, or refilling troughs. Rainwater isn’t safe for drinking unless filtered and purified. Depending on your layout and requirements, you can route your system through a hose or a simple gravity line. The USDA’s guide to rainwater harvesting covers additional safety tips and design ideas for rural use. Types of Rainwater Catchment Systems A basic catchment system starts with a roof. Rain hits the surface, flows into gutters, and drains through downspouts. You can direct the water into a barrel, tote, or cistern from there. Each option works for a different scale and storage goal. Rain barrels hold enough to support a small garden. IBC totes offer more volume for larger planting beds or livestock use. If you need year-round water, a buried cistern stores it below ground where temperature and sunlight won’t interfere. You’ll want a screen or diverter near the entry point. This block leaves grit or bird droppings from reaching the tank. Use a mesh filter or sloped diverter to prevent debris from building inside. Choose containers that won’t degrade in sunlight. Food-grade plastic, sealed drums, or purpose-built tanks hold up best. Avoid using old containers that once held chemicals or fuel. Storing Rainwater Safely Maintaning a clean storage area is just as important as collection. Open tanks can invite pests, algae, or mold. Take time to seal every lid and check for weak spots. Start by cleaning out new or used containers before the first use. Check screens and lids each month to keep insects and debris out. Store your containers out of direct sun to limit heat buildup and algae growth. If water is used for animals, store it in containers labeled for food or drinking use. Keep it sealed until needed. Drain standing water between rainy periods if you don’t plan to use it right away. Practical Uses and Daily Access A rainwater system becomes part of your routine once it’s in place. Some homesteaders set up a spigot or hose connection at the base of each barrel. Others use gravity to move water from a higher tank to lower garden beds. The system doesn’t need to be fancy. It works as long as you can access the water when needed. During dry weeks, ration the use of water or prioritize crops that need more moisture. In rainy seasons, let the barrels fill and overflow to a safe drainage area. Watch your system for leaks, sagging lines, or pooling near buildings. Reroute runoff if it puts pressure on foundations or footpaths. For more on setup ideas, the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension covers rainwater collection methods adapted for homes, farms, and gardens. Rainwater Storage Options at a Glance If you’re deciding how to store water on your homestead, the chart below offers a quick comparison. Each option fits a different need, from seasonal garden use to long-term supply. Storage Type Capacity Range Material Common Use Rain Barrel 40–80 gallons Plastic or metal Garden and tool use IBC Tote 275–330 gallons Food-grade plastic Livestock, irrigation Underground Cistern 500+ gallons Poly or concrete Year-round supply Why Rainwater Harvesting Belongs on Every Homestead Rainwater harvesting gives you more control. It takes pressure off your main water source and lets you keep things growing, clean, and fed even when the weather turns dry. Your setup can start small and grow with time. It needs a solid catchment, clean storage, and regular upkeep. How are you collecting rainwater on your land? Got tips, upgrades, or lessons to share? Drop them below and we’d love to hear what works where you are. FAQs About Rainwater Harvesting How much rainwater can I collect from my roof? You can collect about 0.6 gallons of water per square foot of roof for every inch of rain. A 1,000-square-foot roof can yield around 600 gallons during a one-inch rain. Do I need a filter in my rainwater system? Yes. A basic screen or first-flush diverter helps keep leaves, insects, and roof debris out of your storage tank. This protects the water and extends the life of your container. Can I use rainwater for drinking? Not without treatment. Untreated rainwater is not safe to drink. You’ll need to filter, boil, or purify it before using it in your kitchen or for pets. What happens if my tank overflows? Your system should direct overflow away from structures. Use a hose or pipe to route extra water to a gravel pit, swale, or garden bed that can handle the runoff. What’s the best container for starting out? A food-grade barrel or IBC tote is a good place to begin. They’re easy to install, affordable, and hold enough for garden and livestock needs.

How to Freeze Corn (Cobs or Kernels)
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How to Freeze Corn (Cobs or Kernels)

Read the original post "How to Freeze Corn (Cobs or Kernels)" on A Modern Homestead. Store your fresh corn in the freezer for up to a year with this simple process for Freezing Corn. This easy method can be used to freeze corn on the cob or whole kernels. Then you can enjoy your frozen corn in soups, pot pies, or on its own as a quick side dish! How... Read More The post "How to Freeze Corn (Cobs or Kernels)" appeared first on A Modern Homestead.

Homemade Jerky: How to Make and Store It the Right Way
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Homemade Jerky: How to Make and Store It the Right Way

Preserving meat doesn’t always require electricity or store-bought additives. For generations, homesteaders have turned their meat into jerky to make it last. It’s one of the most reliable ways to store protein when time or weather won’t allow for freezing or canning. You can make homemade jerky using tools you likely already have. It’s a flexible process that works for different ingredients and flavor styles. This guide walks through safe techniques for drying, storing, and seasoning jerky on your own terms. What You’ll Need to Get Started Every good jerky batch begins with clean, trimmed slices. Fat causes spoilage, so take time to remove it. If you’re working with meat, slice it thin and evenly. If you’re using mushrooms, wipe off any dirt and remove the stems. Drying can happen in a dehydrator, an oven set to low, or a smoker that holds a consistent temperature. What matters most is keeping everything clean and heated properly through the process. Core steps: Slice ingredients about ¼ inch thick Season or marinate for at least 4 hours Spread slices flat on trays without overlap Dry at 160°F until fully firm but still flexible Let the pieces cool completely before storing Wear gloves while handling raw meat. Wash your tools between steps, especially if you’re using the same tray for seasoning and drying. Jerky Methods at a Glance The chart below compares drying times, flavors, and storage expectations based on what you’re working with. Type Prep Method Drying Time General Flavor Storage (Sealed) Beef Sliced, seasoned 4–6 hours Savory 1–2 months in pantry, up to 6 months frozen Venison Sliced, seasoned 5–7 hours Lean, robust 1–2 months in pantry, up to 6 months frozen Mushrooms Sliced, seasoned 3–4 hours Earthy 2–4 weeks in pantry, 2–3 months refrigerated To reduce risk, some homesteaders pre-bake venison at 165°F for 10 minutes before seasoning. This step helps destroy any bacteria that survived the drying process. For USDA meat drying guidelines, check the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Drying and Storage Safety Tips If jerky isn’t fully dried, it can spoil quickly. Sealing slices that still hold moisture can lead to mold and loss of the batch. Always check for dryness before storage. Each slice should feel dry and leathery with no soft spots. Use sealed containers or bags once cooled. Keep them in a pantry, cellar, or other dark, cool area. If jerky develops moisture inside the container, remove it right away and dry it again. Storage safety reminders: Always cool jerky before sealing Store in airtight jars, vacuum bags, or freezer-safe containers Keep dried jerky away from direct sunlight Label and date each batch Discard anything with an off smell or visible spots If you plan to store jerky longer than a few weeks, freezing helps stabilise the flavor and texture. Flavor Variations for Homemade Jerky Seasoning jerky doesn’t follow a single recipe. You can use dry rubs, liquid marinades, or spice blends, depending on what you have. Strong flavors hold up best during drying. Here are some homestead-friendly combinations: Vinegar, cracked pepper, and onion powder Tamari, garlic, and brown sugar Mustard powder, smoked paprika, and apple cider Chili flakes and dried rosemary Maple syrup and cayenne Try a small batch when experimenting. Some ingredients overpower others after drying, especially when sweeteners or acidic marinades are used. Homemade Jerky That Fits the Way You Live Homemade jerky is food that gives you flexibility. It lets you preserve meat without relying on freezers. You control the ingredients, the flavor, and how it’s stored. Whether you’re drying slices of beef from your last butcher day, packing venison from a recent hunt, or preserving mushrooms from your forest edge, jerky turns your harvest into something that keeps. Have you made jerky on your homestead? What cut worked best, and how did you season it? FAQs How long does homemade jerky last? Sealed and stored in a cool pantry, it lasts up to 2 months. For longer storage, use the freezer. What meat works best for jerky? Lean cuts from beef or venison work well. Trim all visible fat to improve shelf life and texture. Can I use mushrooms instead of meat? Yes. Use firm mushrooms like shiitake or portobello. Dry them completely and store in the fridge. Do I need a dehydrator to make jerky? No. An oven set to 160°F works fine. Just leave the door slightly open to allow moisture to escape. How can I tell when jerky is done drying? It should feel dry and leathery but still bend slightly. Any soft or wet spots mean it needs more time.

DIY Natural Bug Sprays and Remedies for Your Homestead
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DIY Natural Bug Sprays and Remedies for Your Homestead

Every year, bug season starts early and gets worse as the days grow hotter. You might spot mosquitoes near the porch or find flies hanging around the feed room. Some might even follow you back from the pasture and linger near the shaded walls of your home. Thankfully, you don’t need store-bought chemicals to handle them. Many homemade sprays and plant-based blends can give you solid results without exposing your family, animals, or garden to harsh ingredients. This guide shows what works, how to mix them, and where each spray fits best. What Goes Into a Natural Bug Spray Most natural bug sprays rely on strong-smelling ingredients that insects find unpleasant. The good news is that you can whip up a batch using what’s already in your pantry or herb garden. Start with a liquid base. Vinegar, witch hazel, or even water can help dissolve and spread the active ingredients. Then, add herbs or oils that fit the pest you’re dealing with. Useful ingredients include: White vinegar or apple cider vinegar Witch hazel or rubbing alcohol Essential oils: citronella, eucalyptus, peppermint, lemongrass, cedarwood, lavender Fresh herbs: rosemary, thyme, basil, catnip Garlic or onion Water Depending on the ingredients, some oils will turn out stronger than others. If you’re spraying near animals or seedlings, stick with milder options like lavender or cedarwood. For more information about essential oils and safety, the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy has a helpful guide on essential oil use. Homemade Remedies That Actually Work Each recipe in the chart below helps with a specific type of pest. Some sprays work best on plants. Others belong on gear, boots, or surfaces around entryways. Recipe Name Pests Repelled Where to Use How Long It Lasts Citrus Herb Spray Mosquitoes, gnats Skin, porch chairs, window trim 2–4 hours Vinegar Garlic Mix Aphids, beetles, ants Garden beds, compost bins 3–5 days Lavender Cedar Blend Flies, moths Barn walls, feed buckets 2–3 days Peppermint Barrier Oil Ticks, fleas Door frames, boot soles Up to 1 week Onion Chili Spray Deer, squirrels, caterpillars Fencing, fruit trees 1–2 days If you want the spray to stick longer, add a few drops of dish soap. Shake before each use, and test it on a small patch before spraying widely. Safe Ways to Use Natural Sprays Even natural ingredients can cause trouble if used carelessly. Always label your jars, store them away from kids, and test a small area first before applying to fabric, leaves, or animals. Some oils and herbs may irritate skin or discolor surfaces. It’s best to start with light doses until you know how each blend behaves when applied. Helpful precautions: Store in clean, labeled bottles Shake well before spraying Avoid direct contact with animals Skip spraying near flowering plants during bee activity Apply early or late in the day If you raise livestock such as chickens or goats, use these sprays on door frames or fencing. Avoid spraying directly on the animals themselves. Sprays That Serve More Than One Purpose Some homemade sprays do more than just keep pests away. They can help freshen the air, protect storage spaces, or even prevent plant disease. A garlic and vinegar mix might work against aphids and can also reduce mildew on leaves. Lavender and cedar help with moths and also keep storage bins smelling clean. Herbs like basil or mint keep flies away when planted near doorways. Choosing remedies with added benefits can cut down on clutter and simplify your pest control routine. Natural Bug Sprays That Fit Your Homestead Natural bug sprays are easy to make and useful across the homestead. You can treat problem spots without bringing harsh chemicals into your garden, barn, or kitchen area. These remedies give you control over what touches your tools, clothes, and animals. Start with what you have. Test a few recipes and adjust them based on what you grow, raise, and protect. Have a spray that works well in your space? Share it with us, as we’d like to hear what’s in your jar this summer. FAQs How long do these sprays last once mixed? Most sprays hold up for a few days. Store them in the fridge to stretch their shelf life. Oil-based recipes may last longer than herb-steeped water blends. Are natural sprays safe for animals? Some are, but it depends on the ingredients. Lavender and cedar tend to be gentler. Test each blend before using it near pet bedding or stalls. What if I don’t have essential oils? Steep herbs in hot water or vinegar for a day. Strain the liquid and use it as a lighter version of an oil-based spray. Can I use these inside the house? Yes. Try mild blends first. Spray lightly near doorways, under sinks, or around windowsills. Avoid electronics, fabrics, or polished surfaces unless tested first.

How to Store and Wash Farm Fresh Eggs To Make Them Last
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How to Store and Wash Farm Fresh Eggs To Make Them Last

Do you buy fresh eggs from a local farm, or have your own backyard chickens? Come learn how to safely store fresh eggs to make them last and retain the best quality!This guide will cover important frequently asked questions like: if fresh eggs need to be refrigerated or not, when and how to wash them, how long they’re good for, and how to test freshness with the “float test” – along with a little of the science behind it all. I used to work as a food safety health inspector after all, and have been raising backyard chickens for over 10 years!NOTE: This post was originally published in July 2020 and recently updated.Disclosure: Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Farm fresh eggs are remarkably different from those you buy in the store. They’re more flavorful, colorful, nutrient-dense, and the chickens typically receive much better care! Also, they’re not processed in the same manner as commercial eggs, which means you should store and wash fresh eggs differently than store-bought eggs.Can I Store Fresh Eggs at Room Temperature?It depends. Unwashed fresh eggs from backyard chickens or a local farm that haven’t yet been refrigerated can safely be stored on the counter at room temperature for a couple weeks. On the other hand, washed eggs must be refrigerated. (See more info about shelf life below.) If you purchase local eggs at a farmers market or farm stand, ask if they’ve been washed and/or need to be refrigerated. When in doubt, store them in the fridge! We don’t wash our eggs until we use them, and love to admire our hen’s gorgeous eggs in a wire basket or handy egg skelter on the counter. When we have a lot, we rotate the older eggs into the fridge after a week and leave the freshest ones out.Storing eggs in an egg skelter makes it extra easy to rotate and use eggs in their order of age or freshness.The Bloom, Washing, and PasteurizationFreshly-laid eggs have a natural protective coating on the outside of the shell called the cuticle. More commonly known as the “bloom”, the cuticle effectively seals the otherwise porous eggshell. As the University of Edinburgh explains, “the cuticle prevents bacteria from entering the egg and forms its first line of defense against infection.” This is nature’s way of protecting developing chicks in fertilized eggs! The bloom also helps keep eggs fresh longer, preventing both the loss of moisture and the introduction of contamination. As required by the USDA, commercial store-bought eggs are pasteurized (rapidly heated to a high temperature). The process kills pathogens present at the time of pasteurization but provides no long-term protection. Rather, both pasteurization and washing eggs removes the bloom, thus leaving eggs more susceptible to spoilage. This is why pasteurized and washed eggs must be refrigerated.The Anatomy of an Egg, via MannaProHow Long Do Fresh Eggs Last on the Counter?Fresh unwashed eggs stay good for about 2 to 3 weeks when stored on the counter at room temperature. However, the recommendation doesn’t stem from food safety alone – but more so to maintain optimal eating quality. As eggs age, their protein structure degrades. This causes older egg whites to become more runny, and the yolks to stand less round and tall or break more easily.Even though it’s safe, eggs stored at room temperature will degrade much faster than those stored in the refrigerator. The warmer your home is, the more this is true! Therefore, I personally recommend storing eggs at room temperature for no longer than a week – and only a few days if it is very hot and humid.Gorgeous golden yolks from our girls – including a double-yolker! Freshly laid eggs have more perky, tall yolks. Older eggs have more flattened yolks and thinner whites that will run and spread in a pan more.Storing Eggs in the RefrigeratorStoring eggs in the fridge significantly increases their shelf life. Unwashed fresh eggs will stay good for 2 to 3 months in the refrigerator! Washed eggs will lose moisture and degrade in quality sooner, but may still be safe to consume within that same timeframe.Because washed eggs are more porous, it’s best to store them in an enclosed container in the fridge to reduce moisture loss and also prevent the absorption of off-odors or bacteria. It’s best to dry washed eggs prior to storage too.Once eggs are refrigerated even one time, they should be kept in the refrigerator thereafter, washed or not. According to the USDA, “a cold egg left out at room temperature can sweat, facilitating the movement of bacteria into the egg and increasing the growth of bacteria”. Therefore, refrigerated eggs should not be left out for more than 2 hours at room temperature before use.My favorite egg storage drawer. It holds 18 eggs, slides out for convenience, and you can stack several! (There is also a smaller version that holds a dozen eggs.) I also spy homemade low sugar peach jam, preserved lemons, and chive blossom vinegar. Yum!When and How to Wash Fresh EggsIn general, I recommend waiting to wash fresh eggs until right before you use them. That is, unless they are soiled with poop, mud, or otherwise in need of a good rinse. In that case, wash dirty eggs and then store them in the fridge.Otherwise, storing eggs unwashed will keep them more “sealed” and thus extend their shelf life and freshness, whether you store them at room temperature or in the fridge! I know many backyard chicken keepers who don’t wash their eggs at all.To wash our eggs, we simply rinse and rub them under warm water. There is no need for harsh soaps, vinegar or bleach. In fact, chemicals or odors could absorb through the shell! Use a soft sponge or cloth to gently wash away debris if needed, but avoid scrubbing with anything abrasive. Allow washed eggs to air dry or dry them with a towel before putting them in an enclosed container in the fridge. We wash just a few eggs as we eat them!Other Tips for Storing EggsDid you know that it’s best to store eggs with their round end up, and pointy end facing down? That’s because there’s an air sac within the rounded end, and when it’s facing up, it acts like a little balloon of insulation that helps to reduce evaporation and additional moisture loss – thus keeping eggs fresh longer! The Float Test: Assess Egg FreshnessDid your egg rotation get mixed up, or aren’t sure which eggs are the most fresh? Try the float test! Fill a glass or bowl with cool water, and gently place the eggs in question inside. The freshest eggs will lay on the bottom of the glass. Eggs that are a few weeks old will stay on the bottom but “stand up” slightly. Middle-age eggs may partially float but stay submerged. The higher the egg floats, the older it is. Full-blown floaters are considered bad to consume. Moderately old eggs are still perfectly fine to use. In fact, I prefer to use slightly older eggs to hard boil because they’re much easier to peel than super fresh eggs!Egg float test diagram via the Happy Chicken Coop How to Keep Backyard Chicken Eggs CleanTo prevent your eggs from getting dirtied up, do your best to keep the hen’s nesting boxes clean. Discourage sleeping (ahem… pooping) in the nesting boxes by providing suitable sleeping roosts above the height of the nest boxes. Their natural instinct is to sleep as high above the ground as possible. Collect eggs daily, or even a few times per day depending on your schedule and flock size! Change out soiled nest box bedding material as needed. We use these nesting box pads that cushion the eggs and keep them extra clean.If your chickens are prone to laying eggs in random places, help train them where to lay by placing wood dummy eggs inside the nest boxes. They want to lay where eggs already are! However, only use dummy eggs until they learn the lesson. Otherwise, leaving eggs (real or fake) in the nest boxes can make a hen go broody – which isn’t a good thing! Learn how to break a broody hen here.Recap: Best Practices to Store Fresh EggsDon’t wash the eggs until you use them, unless they’re soiled. Fresh unwashed eggs do not need to be refrigerated for several weeks, though one to two weeks is best for quality. Always refrigerate washed eggs, and store them in an enclosed container. Eggs will maintain a higher quality when stored in the refrigerator – washed or not. However, unwashed fresh eggs will stay good the longest. Once refrigerated, keep cold eggs in the fridge.  Keep track of your eggs. Rotate room temperature eggs into the refrigerator once a week. Use old eggs first.  Store eggs with their pointy end facing down.We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.Well, that was fun. Even I learned a few new things while putting together this article, so I hope you did too! Please feel free to ask questions, and help spread important food safety information by sharing this article. Enjoy those fresh eggs!You may also enjoy:When Do Chickens Start Laying Eggs? 5 Telltale Signs It’s Soon! Chickens Not Laying Eggs? 6 Possible Reasons Why Top 18 Chicken Breeds for Your Backyard Flock (information about egg colors and laying habits included) Chickens Eating Eggs? 9 Ways to Prevent or Stop It Feeding Chickens Eggshells or Oyster Shells for Essential Calcium Did you enjoy this article? Want to hear more? Stay in touch! Sign up below to receive weekly updates on new posts from Homestead and Chill. The post How to Store and Wash Farm Fresh Eggs To Make Them Last appeared first on Homestead and Chill.