Come learn all about calendula: my favorite edible and medicinal herb! This guide will explore how to grow calendula, along with how to harvest and dry calendula flowers to use for natural skin care, infused oil, salves and more. In addition to providing a burst of sunshine in the garden, you may be surprised to learn what amazing therapeutic properties it offers! We’ve been growing calendula for over 10 years so this guide is full of pro tips, recipes, and our favorite varieties to grow. We even have a designated “calendula farm” garden area now, where we grow flowers exclusively for our organic skincare line. NOTE: This post was originally published in June 2019 but has been significantly updated since. Disclosure: Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. About Calendula Calendula officinalis is a cheerful, daisy-like flowering herb that is highly prized by gardeners and herbalist alike. It’s gorgeous, easy to grow, has a long blooming season, attracts pollinators to the garden (bees love it!), and is easy to save seeds from. It’s one of my favorite easy annual flowers to grow, hands-down. Calendula is highly medicinal and edible, with many wonderful uses beyond the garden – including in the kitchen, natural medicine, and skin care products. Calendula is especially renown for its ability to soothe skin issues. Note that calendula is sometimes referred to as “pot marigold” but don’t confuse it with true marigolds, such as french marigolds. They’re distinctly different, and not nearly as medicinal in nature. Benefits of Calendula If you read labels, you’ll probably notice calendula as a key ingredient in many natural skin care products, and for a good reason! When used topically, studies consistently show that calendula can ease, heal, or otherwise treat a huge array of skin conditions including rashes, swelling, eczema, burns, sunburn, acne, stings, wounds, scrapes, scars, and more. Calendula works its magic by promoting cellular repair and growth, coupled with its natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s most commonly applied to skin as calendula-infused oil, a healing salve, or lotion. Above all, calendula is gentle in its work. According to expert herbalist Rosemary Gladstar, “calendula is a wonderful herb for babies – popular for treating cradle cap, diaper rash, thrush, and other skin irritations.” When used internally (via tea or tincture) it can help boost the immune and lymphatic systems, fight fungal infections, reduce inflammation, menstrual cramps, and gastrointestinal upset, as well as keep fevers at bay. It’s also an anti-viral. Photos one of our happy customers sent us recently: eczema on her arm before-and-after using our calendula salve for about a week. Our Favorite Calendula Varieties Calendula comes in dozens of shades of the sunset: golden yellow, bright to light oranges, blushing reds, and some of my favorite, peachy-pink tones. Some plants grow quite tall (over 3 feet) while other varieties stay more compact and bushy. They all offer amazing healing properties, yet the more sticky and resinous the flowers are, the more potent your homemade calendula products will be. Some of our personal favorite calendula varieties to grow include: Resina, Pacific Beauty, Strawberry Blonde, Pink Surprise, Oopsy Daisy and Zeolights. How to Grow Calendula Calendula is just about as no-fuss and low-maintenance as they come! It’s easy to grow calendula from seed, or you may be able to find seedlings at your local nursery in spring. It grows well in just about every zone, including in containers. Direct sow calendula seeds outdoors after the last spring frost in your zone, or start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. See tips on starting seeds indoors in the section to follow. Plant calendula seedlings outside once the risk of frost has passed, spacing plants about 8 to 12 inches apart in the garden. Calendula is not picky about soil. It performs best in moderately rich, well-draining soil but is known to tolerate poor soil conditions too. Some of our volunteer calendula plants grow happily in gravel even! Calendula grows best in full sun, though partial or afternoon shade can be beneficial in places with exceptionally hot summer weather. Provide moderate water. Calendula is fairly drought-tolerant so it won’t appreciate overly wet conditions. Once established, calendula is tolerant to both heat and cold. In places with mild winters, you can grow it year-round! Expect prolific blooms from calendula in spring through fall.  Calendula readily self-seeds (especially if you don’t harvest the flowers) so new plants will grow back as “volunteers” year after year. Our old back yard garden. We often plant calendula in our raised beds amongst the veggies, but they also self-seed and happily grow in the gravel around them! Starting Calendula Seeds Indoors We prefer to start our calendula indoors to get a jump start on the growing season, which means harvesting blooms sooner too! To start indoors, sow calendula seeds in containers of fluffy seed-starting mix about 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost date in your zone. Plant seeds approximately 1/4-inch deep. Use a seedling heat mat to help encourage quick germination, and provide ample bright light (e.g. a grow light) to prevent them from getting leggy. Keep the soil evenly damp but not soggy. Transplant calendula seedlings outside once the risk of frost has passed, but be sure to harden off indoor seedlings first to prevent transplant shock! Pro Tip: I always thin my seedlings to one plant per cell or seedling pot within just a week or two of sprouting. (I simply trim out the extras at the soil line.) Early thinning reduces competition and makes seedlings grow SO much faster! See our complete guide on starting seeds indoors for more detailed tips. Calendula seedlings we started indoors under grow lights Once they’re hardened off, it’s time to plant them in the garden Calendula Pests and Disease Control Thankfully, calendula doesn’t attract many pests. I’ve heard it’s deer resistant too! Thrips, aphis and whiteflies may occasionally bother calendula plants, which can be blasted off with water or treated with homemade insecticidal soap. We occasionally see tiny bugs on our flowers but don’t treat them since they’re used for organic skincare products. Instead, the bugs seems to simply disappear once we harvest and dehydrate the flowers. The most common disease that effects calendula is powdery mildew, which unfortunately is very prevalent here. Avoid overcrowding plants to increase airflow and reduce the chances of disease. Thankfully, the mildew seems to mostly affect the foliage and not the blooms. Learn how to prevent and treat powdery mildew organically here. The new expanded “calendula farm” at our current homestead How to Harvest Calendula To harvest calendula, simply pluck or cut off the whole flower head where it meets the stem. Don’t pick petals only. Contrary to popular belief, the most medicinal part is the sticky green base of the flower head, NOT the petals alone. For the most healing benefits, harvest calendula flowers when they’re∫, and have just fully opened. If your schedule allows, it’s best to harvest calendula mid-morning, shortly after the new blooms have opened but after any dew has dried. Wet flowers can mold in storage! My fingers get super sticky when I’m picking calendula… but that’s a good thing! Again, the sticky resin is where most of the healing power comes from. Older, fading calendula flowers (including those forming seed) aren’t as medicinal in nature. You can either leave those on the plant to fully mature and dry out for seed-saving OR snip them off to discard before the seeds mature – which will reduce self-seeding and keep your plants looking tidy. Routine dead-heading will also promote more new blooms! After harvest, it’s key to start drying the flowers right away to prevent mold. See drying instructions below. Pro Tip: Don’t be shy about harvesting calendula flowers! The more you harvest, the more will grow. So if you’re serious about stocking up on calendula, plan harvest new blooms every few days. The dewy calendula bloom on the left is too dewy to harvest just yet. Wait until the sun comes out, they dry a bit, and then snip away! Shown are Zeolight and Solar Flashback varieties. How to Dry Calendula It’s essential to fully dry calendula flowers before putting them away for storage. Otherwise, the thick sticky flowers are prone to growing mold. (I’ve heard so many horror stories about jars full of moldy blooms – SO sad!) Plus, it’s important to use 100% dry flowers to make calendula oil or salves, which can also grow mold if they aren’t properly dried first. You can dry calendula in a food dehydrator or attempt to air dry the flowers (both explained below). However, I don’t recommend drying calendula flowers in the oven. Exposure to high heat can denature and ruin its therapeutic compounds. Don’t wash calendula flowers before drying. Extra moisture isn’t welcome! If needed, gently shake them out to dislodge dust or occasional insects. In my experience, the flowers are pretty clean since we harvest newly-opened blooms. We dry our calendula flowers whole. You can also dry just the petals, which will dry more quickly and have less chance of mold. However, plucking petals is tedious and you lose the most medicinal part (the base of the flower). How to Air Dry Calendula It’s possible to passively air dry calendula flowers under the right conditions. It takes a bit of time and patience (up to a week or longer), but be forewarned they could develop mold if they don’t dry quickly enough. Spread out the calendula flowers on screens, in airy baskets, or other breathable racks like this mesh hanging herb drying rack. Then place them in a warm, well-ventilated, arid location to dry. Periodically toss and turn the blooms to ensure they’re drying evenly. You can also set up a fan nearby to encourage good airflow. I personally don’t mess with air drying – especially in our cool, mild climate. It simply takes too long and don’t want to risk them molding. Plus, we want to ensure the flowers are 1000% dry before making infused oil and salves (so they don’t spoil) so we use our food dehydrator. Something about laying out all these heads is very therapeutic. Drying Calendula in a Food Dehydrator Drying calendula flowers in a food dehydrator is the most quick, effective, and foolproof method. Spread the flowers out in a single layer (not piled up or overlapping) on your dehydrator trays. Dehydrate them on a low heat setting – ideally around 95-100°F – until they’re fully dry. Remember, high heat can ruin some of their beneficial properties! Our favorite Excalibur dehydrator has a “living foods” setting we like to use for calendula and other sensitive herbs. The time it takes to fully dry varies depending on your dehydrator and the thickness of the flowers. For example, some of our smallest blooms dry well within one day while very large flower heads take longer. We usually dry our calendula for at least 48 hours (or longer) before putting it away for storage, just to be safe. Dang, that is a sexy machine full of sunshine. Shop Excalibur dehydrators here How to Store Calendula Once they’re fully dry, store dried calendula flowers in an airtight container (e.g. large glass jars) in a cool, dark location. Dried calendula will be the most potent if used within one year, though it’s still okay to use for several years – as long as the flowers are still in good dry condition (not moldy). How to Use Calendula for Skin Care Come experience the magic of calendula for skin health for yourself! When applied topically, it can soothe skin irritation better than prescription creams. You can make homemade calendula oil, which is made by steeping and slowly infusing the dried flowers in a carrier oil of choice (such as olive oil, jojoba oil, or sweet almond oil) – alone or with other dried herbs like chaomo. After several weeks, strain away the flowers and you’re left with a potent, therapeutic oil that can be applied directly to skin or used in other skin care products. Use calendula oil as an ingredient to make homemade calendula salve, soap, lotion, hand cream, body butter, lip balm and more. See related recipes below. Oil aside, you can add calendula petals (or dried flowers) to homemade bath salts, soap, body scrubs or right into a bubble bath. RELATED: Don’t miss our easy step-by-step guides on how to make calendula oil and homemade calendula salve, or our whipped body butter recipe! We also offer premium organic calendula salve, face oil, and hand and body lotion in our shop – made by hand with love on our homestead. Calendula infused oil Homemade calendula salve Our calendula aloe vera organic hand and body lotion Other Ways to Use Calendula Sprinkle fresh or dried calendula petals as a garnish on top of salads (or any dish really) for playful pop of color! I like to add the petals to salads, spring rolls, quiche, ice tea, mocktails, flower-infused ice cubes, or to dress up the top of dips like guacamole or summer salsa. Make calendula tea! Calendula tea tastes mild and earthy, and offers great anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. According to the Chestnut School of Herbs, calendula tea is especially popular to ease heartburn, digestive issues, menstrual cramps and swollen lymph glands. Steep about 1 to 2 loose tablespoons of dried petals, or 4 to 6 whole dried flower per 8 ounces of water. Cover and steep in hot water for 8 to 10 minutes, and then enjoy! If you have chickens, calendula petals can be added to their nesting boxes as a natural insect repellent. Also, if you feed your chickens fresh or dried calendula petals, their egg yolks will be even more golden orange! Plus, they’ll reap all the health benefits by consuming it as well. Frequently Asked Questions Is calendula frost tolerant? Yes, mature calendula plants are frost tolerant once established (but not hardy against a full hard freeze). They may exhibit some slight damage or wilting after exposure to frost but will bounce back and continue to grow. Is calendula an annual or perennial? Calendula is most often grown as an annual flower in most zones, though it can survive as a short-lived perennial in warmer climates too (zone 9-11). Should you prune calendula? Calendula doesn’t usually need to be pruned, though routine harvesting (or dead-heading) of the flowers will help promote more new blooms. If parts of the plant get sparse and unhealthy looking, you can cut the plant back by about 1/3 to encourage fresh new growth. Are there any risks with using calendula? Calendula is generally considered very gentle and safe to use, especially when used topically. However, calendula is a member of the daisy family so it could trigger allergies for those sensitive to the Asteraceae family – such as ragweed, marigolds, daisies, goldenrod and dandelion. And that concludes this lesson on growing and using calendula! I hope you found this article to be interesting and helpful as you start your calendula journey. Even if you don’t plan to make salves and oil, you won’t regret adding it to your garden! Feel free to ask questions in the comments. If you want to dive deeper, I highly recommend checking out the book “Medicinal Herbs: A Beginner’s Guide” by Rosemary Gladstar. It has been one of my key sources of information and inspiration thus far – for calendula, and beyond! Another great resource is this Organic Body Care Recipes book. Don’t miss these related posts: Growing Herbs 101: How to Start a Kitchen Herb Garden, Indoors or Out How to Dry Fresh Herbs: 4 Easy Ways + Storage Tips Pressing Flowers for Beginners: How to Press Flowers 4 Ways (Pros and Cons) 7 Best Easy Annual Flowers to Grow In Any Zone (With Photos) Did you enjoy this article? Want to hear more? Stay in touch! Sign up below to receive weekly updates on new posts from Homestead and Chill. The post How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Calendula Flowers (With Photos) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

At a Glance: Rhode Island Red Vs Plymouth Rock Chickens The Production: Rhode Island Reds are the “output kings” of the chicken heritage world, usually beating the Plymouth Rock by about 20–40 eggs per year. The Vibe: Plymouth Rocks are the “mellow neighbors,” while Rhode Island Reds are high-energy and sometimes a bit bossy. The Purpose: Both are elite dual-purpose birds, but Plymouth Rocks tend to have a slightly better meat-to-bone ratio. The Hardiness: Both handle US winters like absolute pros, though the “Red” handles high humidity a bit better. Choosing between a Rhode Island Red and a Plymouth Rock is the ultimate dilemma for the modern homesteader. Both breeds are icons of the American backyard, but they offer vastly different experiences in the coop. While the fiery Rhode Island Red dominates in pure egg volume and foraging intensity, the Plymouth Rock is the undisputed champion of temperament and steady, dual-purpose utility.  Do you want a high-octane egg machine or a reliable, family-friendly companion? This 2026 comparison breaks down the production stats, personality quirks, and hardiness levels to help you pick the perfect heritage heavyweight for your flock. What Are The Differences Between Rhode Island Red And Plymouth Rock Chickens? The Rhode Island Red (RIR) was bred specifically for high-intensity egg production, which makes them slightly leaner and more “active.” In contrast, the Plymouth Rock is a heavier, more docile bird designed to provide both consistent eggs and enough meat for Sunday dinner. The Rhode Island Red: Appearance: Features intense mahogany feathers and sturdy yellow legs. Build: Slightly leaner and more aerodynamic, optimized for constant movement. The Plymouth Rock: Appearance: Most famous in the “Barred” (black and white striped) variety with a distinct, broad chest. Build: Heavier and sturdier, which makes them ideal dual-purpose meat-and-egg birds. Rhode Island Red Vs Plymouth Rock Chickens: Which Breed Produces More Eggs? If you’re looking strictly at the numbers, the Rhode Island Red takes the crown. They’re widely considered the best “non-industrial” egg layer in existence. The Rhode Island Red (The “Output King”): Annual Output: 250–300 large brown eggs. Maturity: Starts laying early (18–20 weeks). Strategy: The Rhode Island Red is the athlete of the chicken world. They were bred to be an egg-laying powerhouse and can still produce even when the weather turns or the environment gets stressful. The Plymouth Rock (The “Steady All-Rounder”): Annual Output: 200–280 large brown eggs. Maturity: Takes slightly longer (20–22 weeks). Strategy: The Plymouth Rock is built for sustainability. Their heavier body mass allows them to produce consistently through cold snaps, and they don’t burn through their energy as quickly. Here’s a quick Rhode Island vs Plymouth Rock comparison chart: FeatureRhode Island RedPlymouth RockAnnual Egg Count250–300200–280Egg ColorRich BrownLight/Medium BrownEgg SizeLarge to Extra-LargeLargeConsistencyHigh (Lays through stress)Moderate (Steady)Winter PerformanceExcellentExcellent Compare The Temperament Of Rhode Island Red And Plymouth Rock Chickens The Plymouth Rock Personality: They are the “gentle giants.” They are sweet and curious chickens, often the first to run to the gate to greet you. They do exceptionally well in mixed flocks with smaller or more timid birds. The Rhode Island Red Personality: They have a “big” personality. While not usually aggressive toward humans, they are dominant. In the “pecking order,” a Rhode Island Red will almost always be at the top. Where Can I Buy Rhode Island Red And Plymouth Rock Chickens Online In The US? Buying online ensures you get high-production strains rather than just “show” birds. National Hatcheries: McMurray Hatchery, Meyer Hatchery, and Cackle Hatchery are the top online chicken sellers in 2026. They ship NPIP-certified healthy chicks anywhere in the country. Local Farm Stores: During spring “Chick Days,” Tractor Supply Co. and Rural King almost always stock these two breeds because they are the most requested birds in the country. Rhode Island Red Vs Plymouth Rock Chickens: Which Breed Should You Pick? If your only goal is to never buy a carton of eggs again and you have plenty of space, the Rhode Island Red is the go-to breed as they’re the hardest workers in the coop. However, if you want a bird that won’t bully your other hens and acts like a family pet, the Plymouth Rock is the superior choice. Frequently Asked Questions What are the main differences between Rhode Island Red and Plymouth Rock chickens? Rhode Island Reds are slightly smaller and bred for higher egg output, while Plymouth Rocks are heavier, dual-purpose birds known for a much calmer temperament. Which chicken breed is better for egg production? The Rhode Island Red is the superior egg producer, typically laying 250–300 eggs per year, outperforming the Plymouth Rock’s average of 200–280. Compare the temperament of Rhode Island Red and Plymouth Rock chickens. Plymouth Rocks are docile and friendly; Rhode Island Reds are high-energy, assertive, and can be “bossy” in a mixed flock. Where can I buy Rhode Island Red and Plymouth Rock chickens online in the US? Most national hatcheries like Meyer, Cackle, and McMurray Hatchery sell these breeds online with shipping available across the lower 48 states.

Read the original post "Sweet Potato Muffins" on A Modern Homestead. These Sweet Potato Muffins are a breakfast you can feel good about serving on a regular basis! Naturally sweetened, packed with fresh sweet potatoes, cinnamon, and a bit of dark chocolate, your whole family will love this recipe! Make it with einkorn flour or any all-purpose wheat. I love having easy breakfast options in the... Read More The post "Sweet Potato Muffins" appeared first on A Modern Homestead.

Here are 7 of the best annual flowers to grow in any zone, including my top favorites to plant in our garden every year! This guide will cover key growing tips, benefits, uses, and our go-to varieties of each one. Every flower on this list is low-maintenance, easy to grow from seed, and does well in containers. They all make excellent companion flowers in a vegetable garden – attracting pollinators, birds, and other beneficial insects. Plus, flowers bring a delightful pop of color, beauty, and whimsy to any garden space! If you don’t want to start from seed, you should be able to find most of these flowers at your local nursery in the spring too. This post was originally published in February 2020 but significantly updated since. Our old front yard garden, bursting with flowers in spring Disclosure: Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Looking for flower seeds? Don’t miss the Homestead and Chill Prized Pollinator Pack – our very own flower seed collection that we curated with High Mowing Organic Seeds! What Are Annual Flowers? Annual flowers complete their entire life cycle – from seed to flower and back to seed – in one growing season. The original plants won’t continue to grow or come back the following year, though some may self-seed to produce new plants (aka volunteers). Therefore, annual flowers must be replanted each spring in most climates.  All the flowers on this list are most commonly grown as annuals, though a few can persist as short-lived perennials in warmer, frost-free zones (9-11) including nasturtiums and calendula. Starting Annual Flowers from Seed Each flower on this list can either be started from seed indoors, or directly sown outside in spring once the risk of frost has passed. We start most of our annual flowers indoors to get a jump start on the growing season, which means more blooms and color in the garden sooner! To start indoors, sow flower seeds in containers of fluffy seed-starting mix about 5 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date in your zone. Use a seedling heat mat to help encourage quick germination, keep the soil evenly damp but not soggy, and provide ample bright light (e.g. a grow light) to prevent them from getting leggy. See our complete guide on starting seeds indoors for more detailed tips. You can transplant seedlings outside once the risk of frost has passed, but be sure to harden off indoor seedlings first to prevent transplant shock! I like to tuck annual flowers into almost every corner of our DIY raised garden beds, and between vegetable plants where there is space. Our current garden. As you can see, I tuck flowers amongst the veggies in every nook and cranny possible! (While trying to maintain decent spacing to prevent too much competition) 1) Calendula ~ Calendula officinalis Cheerful and daisy-like, calendula is one of the best all-around annual flowers to grow. It’s beautiful, boasts a long blooming season, and has SO many wonderful uses. Calendula is especially renown for its ability to soothe skin issues. Calendula is sometimes referred to as “pot marigold” but don’t accidentally confuse it with true marigolds, such as french marigolds. Marigolds are on this list too, but are distinctly different and not nearly as medicinal in nature. Some of our favorite calendula varieties include: Resina, Pacific Beauty, Strawberry Blonde, Pink Surprise, Oopsy Daisy and Zeolights. Benefits of Calendula Calendula flowers attract bees and butterflies while repelling pest insects. Calendula is a highly medicinal and edible herb with many wonderful uses beyond the garden – including in the kitchen, natural medicine, and skin care products. We make homemade calendula oil and calendula salve that can help heal rashes, burns, psoriasis, eczema and more. It’s a star ingredient in our organic skincare line for a reason! According to the Chestnut School of Herbs, calendula tea can ease reflux, sore throats, heartburn, and IBS. I also like to use calendula petals as a garnish to add a beautiful pop of color to a variety of dishes such as salads, beverages, spring rolls, or flower-infused ice cubes. Volunteer calendula happily growing in the gravel in our old backyard garden Tips on Growing Calendula Direct sow calendula seeds outdoors in spring after the last frost, or start seeds indoors up to 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. (We start our calendula indoors.) In places with mild winters, calendula can be grown year-round! Once planted outside, calendula are fast-growing and will often self-seed (especially if you don’t harvest the flowers). That means they’ll come back as volunteers year after year. Calendula is not picky about soil type, and actually thrives in poor or sandy soil. Some of our volunteer calendula plants grow happily in gravel! Calendula is drought-tolerant and grows best in full sun, though partial shade can be beneficial in places with exceptionally hot summer weather. Expect prolific blooms from calendula in spring through fall. Pro Tip: Don’t be shy about harvesting the flowers. The more you pick, the more they’ll bloom! RELATED: Learn even more about how to grow and use calendula here, including tips on how to harvest, dry, and use the flowers for natural skincare and more. The “calendula farm” at our new homestead, where we grow all the calendula and chamomile for our shop products. 2) Sunflowers ~ Helianthus Who doesn’t love sunflowers? Birds, bees… I know I do! These big cheery flowers always bring a smile to my face. Sunflowers come in a wide array of sizes, shapes, and colors. Personally, I’m a sucker for multi-headed or branching sunflower varieties, which offer an extended season of beautiful blooms and even more seeds per plant. We love these sunflower varieties: Goldy Double, Autumn Beauty, Evening Colors, Rouge Royal, Lemon Queen, Mammoth, Snack Seed and Velvet Queen. Or, check out this awesome variety pack of over 15 different sunflower types. Benefits of Sunflowers With their wide open flower structure, sunflowers provide ample easily-accessible pollen that bees go bananas for. Pro Tip: avoid pollen-less sunflower varieties if you want to feed the bees! Sunflower seeds are great source of food and nourishment for wild birds. Our chickens also love pecking at spent sunflower heads near the end of summer.  Wildlife aside, certain sunflower varieties produce big meaty seeds that are ideal for human consumption too, like these “Snack Seed” or Mammoth varieties. You can also grill and eat whole sunflowers heads! Tips on Growing Sunflowers True to their name, sunflowers prefer to be planted in full sun. Fun Fact: did you know the face of a sunflower moves throughout the day to follow the path of the sun? It is called heliotropism. So keep that in mind when you choose your planting location – they may turn their backs on you!  Sunflowers often grow best when directly sowed outside, though you can start seeds indoors too. To avoid getting too large or root-bound (which can stunt them), I like to start my sunflowers indoors only 3 to 4 weeks before transplanting. Sunflowers vigorous roots may stunt the growth of nearby plants including beans, potatoes, rhubarb and onions. However, we always plant sunflowers in our raised garden beds amongst our veggies and haven’t had issues – minus them casting some unwanted shade at times. Some sunflowers may require staking for support, especially in windy conditions or before they’re well-established. Most sunflower varieties are drought tolerant, so don’t overdo the water! Sunflower seeds are ready for harvest when the plant foliage dies back, flower petals fade away, and the seeds look plump. Seed-save from spent dry flowers at the end of the season.  This impressive branching sunflower showed as a volunteer! RELATED: All the flowers on this list are also easy to save seed from, making them both affordable and sustainable! Learn how to save annual flower seeds here. 3) Zinnia Zinnia flowers are gorgeous pouf balls of vibrant color. They’re another all-around favorite in our garden! Some zinnias grow on smaller, compact plants while others can reach several feet in height. They come in various shades of pink, red, purple, yellow, and even lime green.  My favorite zinnia varieties include Giant Coral, Giant Yellow, Benary’s Giant (various colors), Aurora, Queen Lime, Giant Purple and Ballerina. For smaller spaces, try these adorable dwarf Thumbolina or Zinderella zinnia (shown in the feature photo at the top of this article!) Giant Yellow zinnia in our old front yard garden Benefits of Zinnia in the Garden Zinnia are an absolute favorite source of nectar for monarch butterflies. Bees, bumblebees, and hummingbirds enjoy their nectar and pollen too. Zinnia’s tall erect stems make them excellent cut flowers. We usually have several vases full of zinnias throughout our house in summer! PRO TIP: For long-lasting cut flowers, wait to cut zinnias until the flowers are fully open and the stems are firm (they shouldn’t easily wiggle on top when you jiggle them from below). If cut too young, zinnias will quickly wilt in a bouquet or vase. You’re coming inside with me, my pretties Grew a whole bed of zinnia’s for the first time… zero regrets. Tips on Growing Zinnia Some resources suggest only direct-sowing zinnia seeds outside, saying that they don’t tolerate transplanting well. However, we always start our zinnias from seed indoors without issue! Just be sure to transplant them out when they’re still fairly small (after being properly hardened off) so they don’t become root bound or stunted. Zinnias like full sun but will tolerate a little shade (though they may bloom less). Plant zinnias in well-draining soil that is rich with compost or other organic matter. One bummer about growing zinnias is their susceptibility to powdery mildew, which is rampant here. Thankfully, some varieties are naturally resistant so we try to plant those. See our top tips on managing powdery mildew here. 4) Cosmos I’ve become slightly obsessed with cosmos lately, planting more and more each season. These dainty daisy-like flowers sit atop long slender stems. They look so whimsical (especially blowing in the wind) and give off a classic cottage garden vibe. While the most common cosmos varieties come in hues of pink and purple, they can be found in shades of yellow, orange, red, and even chocolate too! We love Blush Cupcake cosmos, Sensation Blend, Candy Stripe, Double Click Rose, and the stunning Seashell varieties. Cupcake cosmos Benefits of Cosmos Cosmos attract a wide variety of pollinators including birds, bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. I always see native bees, bumblebees, and birds enjoying ours! On the other hand, cosmos seem to have little-to-no pest issues. Definitely a bonus. The flower petals are edible and can be used as a playful garnish in drinks, salads, and more. Cosmos boast a long blooming season and can be used as cut flowers.  PRO TIP: Their thin flat petals make cosmos my favorite flowers to dry for pressed flower crafts! I pick and press them all summer to save for fall and winter crafts. Don’t miss our beginner’s guide on how to press flowers. Tips on Growing Cosmos Cosmos sprout readily and are easy to direct-sow outdoors. (That means they also re-seed as volunteers easily!) Simply scatter seeds on bare soil in springtime after the danger of frost has passed. We usually start our cosmos indoors to get a jump start on the spring season. Cosmos are known to survive in even the poorest soil conditions, as long as it has good drainage. This makes them a perfect “filler” in any oddball place, with little-to-no effort required! They also grow easily in containers. Cosmos are drought-tolerant and prefer warm, dry weather and plenty of sunshine. In extremely hot climates, choose a location with partial shade. Depending on the variety and height, cosmos plants may need staking or other support to prevent the plants from flopping over. PRO TIP: Deadhead cosmos regularly to promote even more new blooms! Learn exactly when and how to deadhead flowers here, including example photos for cosmos. Regularly removing fading flower heads also reduces seed spread, if that’s a concern. 5) Bachelor Buttons Also known as cornflower, stunning blue Bachelor Buttons have become one of my favorite annual flowers over the last few years. Classic Bachelor Buttons are bright blue (a magnificent and unique addition to the garden color palette) though they also come in lavender, light pink, and other shades of purple-blue. A few of our favorite varieties include Blue Boy, Polka dot mix (blue, pink, white and lavender), and dark purple Black Magic Benefits of Bachelor Buttons Birds and bees absolutely love cornflower. Our native Lesser goldfinches simply can’t stay off of them – and we’re happy to share! The tall erect stems make beautiful cut flowers, and also retain their gorgeous color when dried. I love to press them too! Bachelor button flowers are edible and make an absolutely beautiful garnish. I like to pluck the petals off to add flecks of blue to mocktails, salads, and spring rolls. They readily re-seed, so that means you’ll have free plants for years to come! I simply remove the ones I don’t want, but often leave many to grow – and the volunteer bachelor buttons are usually the first to flower in our garden in spring! A female Lesser Goldfinch enjoying a snack of Bachelor Buttons seeds. Tips on Growing Bachelor Buttons Bachelors buttons (cornflowers) are easy to start from seed – either indoors about a month before your last spring frost, or directly outside after. They aren’t picky about soil conditions as long as it’s well-draining. Cornflowers are drought-tolerant so they will not thrive in swampy, soggy conditions. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering. Plant bachelors buttons in a location that receives full sun, though they’ll tolerate partial shade. Many Bachelor Buttons varieties grow quite tall. In my experience, I usually need a stake, small cage, or other support to prevent the plants from toppling or breaking by mid-summer. 6) Marigolds ~ Tagetes Marigolds are probably one of the easiest annual flowers to grow. And while they may not be total show-stoppers like some sunflowers or zinnia, what they lack in beauty they more than make up for in utility. Don’t get me wrong! I think marigolds are very pretty, and definitely enjoy the bright pops of orange and red blooms sprinkled throughout our garden.  My all-time favorite marigold variety is Tangerine Gem followed by French Blend, Naughty Marietta French, Red French, Crackerjack & Red Gem Benefits of Marigolds Marigolds are popular companion flowers, often planted among vegetables in garden beds or close nearby. They attract beneficial insects like butterflies, ladybugs, hover flies and parasitic wasps. Furthermore, their pungent aroma can deter pest insects such as aphids, mosquitoes, and Mexican bean beetles. Classic French marigolds in particular are known to repel root knot nematodes, a soil-dwelling parasite that feeds on the healthy root system of plants. To take advantage of that benefit, be sure to leave the marigold roots to decompose in the soil – using a “no till” method to cut the plant out (rather than yanking it out) at the end of the season.   Chickens love to eat marigolds. Our girls love the greens, and often help us “prune” unruly marigold plants that hang over the side of the garden bed. When chickens are fed bright orange marigold flowers, it can naturally dye their egg yolks a deeper orange color! Rich in antioxidants, marigold flowers are also edible for humans – bringing a beautiful pop of color to salads, teas, desserts and more.  Companion planting French marigolds, tomatoes, basil, and eggplant Tips on Growing Marigolds Like the other easy annual flowers on this list, you can either sow marigold seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost, or directly outside thereafter. Marigolds prefer full sun and warm temperatures to bloom most prolifically.  However, we have grown them in partial-shade – no problem! Deadheading spent blooms will also encourage more. They’re not picky about their soil type, and are suitable for containers. Maintain the soil evenly damp but not soggy. If bushy marigold plants start to crowd their neighbors, don’t be afraid give them a good pruning! They don’t mind, and the greens are a great addition to compost. Once they’re established in your garden, marigolds will likely self-seed and return as volunteers. RELATED: Come learn even more about companion planting – including what veggies and flowers grow best together, and a printable companion planting chart! More poufy marigolds tucked below our tomato plants – the perfect companion plants. 7) Nasturtium ~ Tropaeolum Last but not least, nasturtiums are another annual companion flower that I can’t imagine our garden without. They’re edible, attract pollinators, and oh-so-pretty! Their lush cascading greenery dotted with colorful flowers creates an incredibly beautiful and dramatic effect.  Hummingbird Aloha Mix, Tall Trailing Mix, Peach Melba, Alaska Mix, and Dwarf Jewel are a handful of our go-to nasturtium varieties. Benefits of Nasturtiums Bees and hummingbirds enjoy nasturtium flowers immensely. Nasturtiums double as a “trap crop”, attracting pest insects including aphids and cabbage worms to their foliage rather than your veggies. Ours usually look great despite the pest pressure – but if your plants become heavily infested, I suggest removing leaves or sections of the plant to prevent pest colonization in your garden.  Nasturtiums are edible. Both the flowers and tender leaves have a peppery, zesty flavor – reminiscent of arugula. Try adding both to salads! Our chickens absolutely love eating nasturtium greens too. Nasturtiums started growing under our artichoke plants and took over once the artichokes died back for the season… but I didn’t mind! Tips on Growing Nasturtiums Nasturtium generally prefers to be directly-sown, though starting indoors is possible too. Plant once, and they’ll be back! Nasturtiums are another notorious self-seeding volunteer, but one we welcome with open arms.  Nasturtiums are the most shade-tolerant annual flower on this list. They will grow just about anywhere, but flower the most when they receive at least 6 hours of sun. On the other hand, they may look a bit haggard in full sun with extreme heat, so opt for a location with afternoon shade in the hottest climates. Some nasturtium varieties grow into compact bushes, while others sprawl a bit more. Vining nasturtiums can be trained up arches and trellises, or allowed to spill over the side of a raised bed for a beautiful cascade effect. We grow a little of each! Plant in well-draining soil and provide low to moderate water.   Nasturtiums growing as ground cover in a shady corner of our old yard Other Pollinator Flowers Now of course, there is a whole plethora of other amazing flowers you could grow too! Some of our favorites include lavender, echinacea, salvia, yarrow, scabiosa, flowering herbs like oregano, bee balm, sage, anise hyssop and more!   I love all of them just as much as the easy annual flowers included on this list. However, they may not be quite as quick and simple to start from seed, may be more particular about climate and care, or are commonly grown as perennials. To see a full list of our favorite flowers, check out: The Top 23 Plants for Pollinators: Attract Bees, Butterflies & Hummingbirds. Bachelor buttons on the left, zinnia on the right, sunnies and marigolds in the distance. I hope you thoroughly enjoyed learning about what we consider the best easy annual flowers to grow, and found some new varieties to try yourself! Did I miss any of your favorite annual flowers? Let me know in the comments below! Did you enjoy this article? Want to hear more? Stay in touch! Sign up below to receive weekly updates on new posts from Homestead and Chill. The post 7 Best Easy Annual Flowers to Grow In Any Zone (With Photos) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

At a Glance: Australorp Vs. Leghorn Egg Production The Numbers: White Leghorns win on volume, producing 280–320 eggs annually compared to the Australorp’s 250–280. The Feed Bill: Leghorns are roughly 25% more feed-efficient due to their smaller body size. The Climate: Australorps are winter-laying champions; Leghorns handle extreme heat better but may pause in the cold. The Personality: Australorps are docile “pet-style” birds; Leghorns are high-energy, flighty, and better for “business-first” coops. The Longevity: Australorps maintain production longer (up to 5 years), while Leghorns often “burn out” after year two. Picking between the Black Australorp and the White Leghorn is one of the biggest choices any chicken keeper will make. This debate puts a tough, does-two-jobs Australian favorite against an Italian-born egg-making machine. Whether you want a non-stop egg layer or a steady-breeding hen, this australorp vs leghorn egg production guide will help you decide. Australorp vs Leghorn Egg Laying Comparison Australorp and Leghorn are the best of the best chicken breeds. However, one matures faster and produces more eggs than the other.  The White Leghorn (The “Speed Racer”) Annual Output: 280–320 large white eggs. Maturity: Starts laying early (16–18 weeks). Strategy: Leghorns are lean and high-energy. Since they’re smaller, they don’t use much energy to keep their bodies going, and every bit of food goes straight into making eggs. The Black Australorp (The “Long-Distance Runner”) Annual Output: 250–280 large brown eggs. Maturity: Takes a bit longer to start (20–24 weeks). Strategy: Australorps are built for steady, year-round production. They might not match the Leghorn’s speed, but they keep going when conditions get tough. When a Leghorn might stop laying during a cold snap, the Australorps keep producing all winter long. Australorp Vs. Leghorn Egg Laying Comparison FeatureWhite LeghornBlack AustralorpAnnual Egg Count280–320250–280Egg ColorBright WhiteDeep BrownEgg SizeLarge to Extra-LargeLargeWinter LayingFair to PoorGreatFeed NeedsLow (Very Efficient)Medium (Needs More) Best Feed Brands For Australorp And Leghorn Chickens In The US To keep these egg numbers up, you can’t use cheap scratch feed. In 2026, most US markets now sell special feeds made just for heavy layers. Purina Layena + Omega-3: This is the go-to for Leghorns. Since they lay so often, they can run low on calcium. Purina’s OysterStrong system keeps the shells strong and the hens healthy. Nutrena NatureWise Layer: A great match for Australorps as it contains prebiotics and natural oils to help these bigger birds stay healthy. It also has marigold for those deep, golden-orange yolks that Australorp owners love. Scratch and Peck Organic: For the top-quality homestead, this whole-grain feed is perfect. Since Leghorns love to scratch and forage, this feed encourages what they naturally do, which keeps their stress down and egg production up. Kalmbach Feeds: If you live in the Midwest or Northeast, Kalmbach’s high-protein layer feed helps the Australorp keep warm enough to keep laying when snow starts falling. Are Black Australorps Or White Leghorns Better For A Family Backyard? If you’re planning to raise a flock in the family backyard, research bird behavior before picking a breed. The Australorp Personality: These are the “friendly dogs” of the chicken world. They’re a gentle breed that likes being held. For a family backyard, they’re the clear winner as they usually stay behind short fences quietly. The Leghorn Personality: These birds are high-energy, get easily spooked, and can effortlessly jump over a 6-foot fence. They aren’t mean, but they definitely aren’t “cuddle chickens.” If your backyard is small or your neighbors don’t like noise, the Leghorn’s loud “egg song” might be a problem. Where To Buy Australorp And Leghorn Chicks Near Me or Online? Getting your chicks from a good hatchery makes sure you get the “egg-laying type” instead of the “show type” which lays way fewer numbers. National Hatcheries: Cackle Hatchery, Meyer Hatchery, and McMurray Hatchery are the top three US sellers online. They ship anywhere in the country and offer NPIP-certified healthy chicks. Local Farm Stores: In the spring, Tractor Supply Co. and Rural King stock both breeds during “Chick Days.” They’re often the cheapest way to get 5 or 10 birds without paying for shipping. The NPIP Directory: You can search the USDA’s NPIP website for local breeders in your state to find birds already used to your local weather. How’s the Australorp vs Leghorn Egg Production Beyond Year Two? Most data covers about the first 12 months, but what happens as your flock gets older? Leghorns are bred to lay so hard that they often “wear out” faster. By year three, they might lay 30–40% fewer eggs, and they can have more health issues. Australorps, with a slower pace, often keep up a steady (though slightly lower) rate for 4 or 5 years. What’s the ROI on Eggs Per Pound Of Feed? If you treat your coop like a business, pick the Leghorn. They weigh less and need about 25% less feed than an Australorp to make the same dozen eggs. If you’re paying for every bit of grain and don’t have space for them, the Leghorns’ payback is unbeatable. However, if you have a big yard, choose the Australorp as they’re much better at finding their own “wild” protein than the other type. Australorp vs Leghorn: Which Chicken Should I Pick for Backyard Egg Production? In a head-to-head race, the White Leghorn makes more eggs each year, usually beating the Australorp by 30 to 50 eggs. But for the average backyard keeper, the Australorp’s gentle nature and winter toughness often make it the more rewarding bird to raise. Frequently Asked Questions Which chicken lays more eggs, the Australorp or the Leghorn? The White Leghorn lays more eggs, averaging 280–320 per year, whereas the Australorp averages 250–280 eggs. At what age do Leghorn and Australorp chickens start laying? Leghorns typically start laying between 16–18 weeks, while Australorps take a bit longer, usually starting between 20–24 weeks. Are Australorps or Leghorns better for cold climates? Australorps are superior for cold climates due to their heavy body mass and dense feathers; Leghorns are more prone to stopping production during winter cold snaps. Which breed is more feed-efficient for egg production? The Leghorn is significantly more efficient, requiring approximately 25% less feed than the Australorp to produce the same amount of eggs. Do Australorps or Leghorns make better pets for children? The Australorp is much better for children because they have a docile, “lap chicken” personality, while Leghorns are flighty and avoid human contact.