Modern cleaning aisles are packed with brightly colored bottles promising to kill 99.9% of germs. Flip one over, though, and you’re met with a wall of ingredients most folks can’t pronounce. Many of those chemicals contribute to indoor air pollution and can irritate skin, eyes, and lungs of kids and pets. Alternatively, Homemade cleaning products offer a safer and more affordable alternative. Made with simple ingredients like vinegar, baking soda, and essential oils, they can clean just as effectively as store-bought versions without the unwanted side effects. You control what goes into them, which means more transparency and fewer toxins in your home. 7 Basic Ingredients for Natural Cleaning The following seven ingredients form the backbone of most natural cleaning routines. They’re easy to find and reliable enough to handle the majority of household messes. Instead of filling a cabinet with single-use products, you can mix and match these staples to clean nearly every surface in your home. If you’re starting to replace commercial cleaners, this short list will take you surprisingly far. White Vinegar: Cuts grease and freshens surfaces without leaving residue. Baking Soda: Scrubs gently and neutralizes unpleasant smells. Castile Soap: A liquid soap made from vegetable oils that works on everything from dishes to floors. Essential Oils: Add natural fragrance and offer some antimicrobial support, especially lemon and tea tree. Rubbing Alcohol: Evaporates quickly and disinfects high-touch areas like doorknobs and light switches. Cornstarch: Keeps glass sprays from streaking as they dry. Citric Acid or Lemon Juice: Breaks down hard water buildup and soap residue. Make Your Own Natural Cleaners at Home Each of the recipes below is designed for a particular task. Some are better for daily surface cleaning while others handle buildup or freshen soft materials. All-Purpose Cleaner This spray handles the kind of mess that shows up on counters, sinks, and appliance handles. It works well in high-use areas where dirt builds up gradually. The scent will depend on which oil you choose, but the formula itself stays reliable. Ingredients 1 cup distilled white vinegar 1 cup water 10 to 15 drops essential oil (lavender, lemon, or tea tree) Instructions Combine the ingredients in a spray bottle. Shake before each use. Spray on the surface and wipe with a clean cloth. Do not use on stone surfaces like granite or marble, as vinegar may cause damage over time. Baking Soda Scrub Paste When surfaces collect grime that spray bottles can’t touch, a scrub paste helps. It’s thick enough to stick and gentle enough not to scratch. This one works especially well on tubs and inside the oven. Ingredients ½ cup baking soda 1 tablespoon castile soap A few drops essential oil Water (enough to form a paste) Instructions Mix baking soda and castile soap together. Add water slowly until the texture thickens into a paste. Apply with a sponge or cloth. Scrub the area, then rinse well. Glass and Mirror Cleaner Residue on glass is often from the cleaner itself, so be mindful when cleaning glasses. This version dries clean without creating fog or streaks. It’s best used on windows, mirrors, and anything with a reflective finish. Ingredients 2 cups water 2 tablespoons white vinegar 2 tablespoons rubbing alcohol 1 tablespoon cornstarch 5 drops lemon essential oil (optional) Instructions Add everything to a spray bottle. Shake well before each use to distribute the cornstarch. Spray on glass and wipe with a lint-free cloth or newspaper. Toilet Bowl Bombs This is a low-effort way to keep the toilet fresh between full cleanings. The fizzing action helps lift mild buildup on contact. It’s also easy to make in batches ahead of time. Ingredients 1 cup baking soda ¼ cup citric acid 1 tablespoon water 20 drops tea tree essential oil Silicone mold or small spoon (for shaping) Instructions Combine dry ingredients. Add water and essential oil slowly while stirring. Press the mixture into molds or shape into small rounds. Let dry for 6 hours or overnight. To use, drop one into the bowl and scrub after it dissolves. Fabric Freshener Spray Fabrics tend to absorb and retain odors, unlike hard surfaces, which don’t hold smells as easily. This mist helps reduce those lingering odors without relying on synthetic fragrances. It’s safe for use on upholstery, though spot testing is still a smart idea. Ingredients 1 cup distilled water ½ cup vodka or witch hazel 10 to 15 drops essential oil (lavender, eucalyptus, or cedarwood work well) Instructions Pour all ingredients into a spray bottle and shake. Lightly mist fabrics as needed. Always test on a small area first to check for discoloration. Know What to Expect From Natural Cleaners Homemade cleaners can take care of most day-to-day messes, but they aren’t meant to do everything. They work best on surfaces that don’t require full disinfecting and in homes that don’t rely on chemical-level sanitizing. If you’re cleaning up after raw meat or handling mold, it’s worth looking into stronger options. Natural products still get results. Vinegar and alcohol have documented antimicrobial properties. Baking soda acts as a mild abrasive and helps remove odors. When used properly, these ingredients can handle the majority of everyday cleaning tasks. For better results, keep a few basics in mind: Let the cleaner sit on the surface for at least a minute before wiping Use warm or hot water when possible to help lift residue Choose tools that suit the job (like microfiber cloths or stiff-bristle brushes) Don’t expect a single recipe to cover every situation For a science-based breakdown of how ingredients like vinegar and alcohol perform against bacteria, the National Library of Medicine offers a helpful overview of natural disinfectants and household sanitation. Make Room for Homemade Cleaning Products into Your Shelf Homemade cleaning products let you tidy up using simpler ingredients, often with fewer harsh additives than store-bought options. It’s not about doing everything at once. Starting with just one DIY cleaner can make a difference. Try one recipe and see how it works in your space. If it helps, keep using it. If not, adjust it to fit your needs. Cleaning should feel like taking care of your home, and not like a chore. If you’ve already started making your own, share what’s been working. Your experience could help someone else get started with confidence. FAQs What surfaces should I avoid when using vinegar? Avoid using vinegar on natural stone like granite, marble, or slate. It can damage the sealant and dull the finish over time. Do I need to refrigerate homemade cleaners? No. Most vinegar- or alcohol-based cleaners are shelf-stable. Just store them in a cool, dry place and shake before each use. How long do these cleaners stay effective? Most will last a few weeks to several months, depending on the ingredients. Use glass containers for essential oil blends to extend shelf life. Can I use these around pets? Yes, with a few precautions. Skip tea tree oil in homes with cats. Always rinse areas that pets may lick or walk across. Will these kill germs and viruses? They’ll handle everyday germs, but not all viruses or bacteria. For disinfecting high-risk areas, use alcohol above 70% concentration or an EPA-approved disinfectant.

Read the original post "Homemade French Baguette Recipe" on A Modern Homestead. A crunchy crust and a soft middle, that’s what this Homemade French Baguette has to offer! It’s made with just 2g of yeast, does not require an electric mixer, and is considered a no-knead bread recipe! Make these baguettes with einkorn flour or any all-purpose wheat flour! After 20 years as a gluten-free family, discovering... Read More The post "Homemade French Baguette Recipe" appeared first on A Modern Homestead.

Read the original post "Classic Oatmeal Raisin Cookies" on A Modern Homestead. If you’re looking for the best, healthy, easy-to-make soft and chewy Classic Oatmeal Raisin Cookies, you are in the right place! Packed with warm cinnamon, chewy raisins, maple syrup, and of course, oatmeal, these cookies are unbelievably delicious! Make them with einkorn or any all-purpose wheat! We love cookies around here, and we all have... Read More The post "Classic Oatmeal Raisin Cookies" appeared first on A Modern Homestead.

Are you growing onions? Right on. Now come learn how to harvest them! This quick guide will teach you how to tell when your onions are ready to harvest, the best way to go about picking them (it’s different than you likely imagine), and how to properly cure onions to make them last in storage. I’ll also share tips on how to store and preserve onions. Truth be told, onions are one of my favorite things to grow – and use in the kitchen! Check out all those onions behind me! RELATED: If you’re new to growing onions, be sure to check out our guide on when and how to plant onions – including our favorite varieties, and why we prefer to start from seed or seedlings NOT sets! (Spoiler alert: sets are far more prone to issues.) When to Harvest Onions Technically, you can harvest and eat onions at any stage. Picked young and early, you can enjoy their tops as green onions and immature bulbs as spring onions. I love staggering our harvest to use fresh onions for meals over the many months they grow! For maximum storage potential as dry bulbs, wait until they reach full maturity. You can tell onions are mature and ready to harvest when their leaves start to turn yellow or brown and the main stalk gets soft, skinny, and flops over just above the bulb. This is usually about three to five months after planting, depending on variety and climate. After your onion tops fall, wait another week or two before harvesting, allowing the bulbs to dry further.  If your onion stalks don’t fall over on their own but you want to harvest soon (e.g. if they’ve reached a mature size, freezing weather is in the forecast, etc) you can also manually bend or push the stalks over – which will signal the onions to stop growing and prepare for harvest. Onion tops starting to flop over on their own, a signal that harvest is a couple weeks away I often bend over the tops if some start to fall but others haven’t yet. How to Harvest Onions When the time is right, harvest onions by gently pulling up on the bulb. Avoid pulling up on the stalks as they may break, which can prevent them from curing properly. If needed, carefully loosen the soil around the onions first with a trowel or garden fork, but take care not to puncture or bruise them – they won’t hold up in storage if damaged! After harvesting onions, leave them out to lay on top of the soil for a day or two in the sun (as long as rain isn’t in the forecast) so they can begin to dry and cure. Do NOT remove the green tops or roots yet! Those should be trimmed off only after the onions are fully cured. I gently pulled all of the onion bulbs out of the soil, but will leave them laying on top for a couple days more before transferring to a curing rack How to Cure and Trim Onions Curing onions is the process of allowing them to finish drying and sealing after harvest, which is essential for them to last in long-term dry storage! Note that immature onions or those that have started to flower will not cure or store well. In very hot, dry climates, those couple days onions spend lying and drying in the field after harvest may be sufficient curing time. Yet most gardeners further cure their onions by relocating them to a dry, shaded, well-ventilated area for 7 to 10 days.  It’s important to leave the green tops and roots intact as the onions cure, as the bulbs are still drawing final nutrients from them as they dry. Cutting the tops off too early can also compromise the seal and introduce moisture or mold into the bulb. You can cure onions in a drafty garage, carport, patio, shed or even right outside in the shade (as long as it isn’t too humid and they’re protected from rain). Hang onions from a homemade drying rack, or lay them out flat on a wire rack or screen. Curing onions on a solid tabletop can also suffice as long as there is ample air circulation. Consider using a fan nearby as needed. Take care not to bruise or damage them in the process. As onions cure, the roots will shrivel up and the greens will dry up to form a seal at the top of the onion. (The stem just above the bulb should feel very thin and dry when they’re finished curing.) Once they’re nice and dry, trim off the roots and tops before tucking them away for long-term storage. You can remove any dangling peeling skins, but otherwise leave their papery skins intact. Repurposing one of our DIY greenhouse potting benches into an onion drying rack (in the shade). You can also hang them, lay them out on wire shelving, or on top of wire fencing A couple weeks later, the greens are totally dry. I can also feel they’ve become very thin and sealed at the top of the bulb Time to trim off the tops – a couple inches above the bulb… …and trim off the roots All cleaned up and ready for storage. How to Store Onions Store cured onions in a cool, dark, dry location with good air circulation. For example, in a woven basket, stackable wire baskets, or a cardboard box in a cool closet or cabinet, root cellar, basement, or similar temperate location. We store our onions, garlic, and winter squash on this nifty harvest storage rack in a cool (north-facing) guest room closet. The ideal storage temperature for onions is around 45-55°F, though ours last for a very long time in our cool spare closet (around 60-65°F). Onions that were properly cured should last several months in dry storage under ideal conditions. Depending on the variety and quality of the bulbs, some onions may last just a couple months, while other varieties can last nearly a year! For instance, our huge tender Walla Walla onions always start to go downhill long before our favorite storage Calibra onions do. Mature onions that were not cured as well (or at all) can be stored at room temperature for a couple weeks, but they’ll last longer in the fridge. Store immature onions (green, spring, scallions, etc) in an airtight container in the refrigerator for maximum freshness. Check your onion storage often, at least every few weeks. Be sure to use (or preserve) any soft, damaged, or bruised ones first. I love our harvest storage rack! It comes in a shorter version too. These bamboo trays provide excellent airflow, and fit the harvest rack shelves perfectly. Ways to Preserve Onions Use these ideas to preserve your onions if they start going soft in storage – or simply as a fun new way to use them! We love to make homemade dried onion powder, especially with immature onions or those that have started to flower and thus can’t be cured. We even dry the green tops for powder! Learn how to make onion powder here. Another great option for preserving onions is to make quick pickled onions. They’re awesome on top of salads, sandwiches and more. We’ve also frozen roasted onions in the past; they’re super-flavorful, lightly caramelized, and delicious added to soup, stew, vegetarian chili, or quiche. Well, I hope you learned something interesting and new today! And I especially hope you have a very successful onion harvest and storage season ahead. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and happy harvesting! You may also like: How to Plant and Grow Garlic: The Ultimate Guide When to Harvest Garlic, Plus Curing and Storage Tips The Best Zucchini Relish Recipe (Canning, Freezer or Refrigerator) The Best Easy Roasted Tomato Sauce Recipe (Freeze or Can) The post When to Harvest Onions and How to Cure Them for Storage appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Late summer foraging gives you access to wild foods that thrive during the hottest stretch of the growing season. By August, certain edible plants reach their peak. Mushrooms begin to appear after steady rains and cooler nights. Most foraging can be done close to home. Plants grow along fence lines, roadside ditches, and the edges of woods. With proper identification and basic handling, many of these seasonal foods are easy to clean, cook, or store for later use. Edible Plants That Thrive in Late Summer Some of the best wild foods grow where people least expect them: cracked soil, drainage ditches, or the edge of an old trail. These plants often go unnoticed until you know what to look for. Once you do, they’re easy to find and even easier to use. Purslane This low and spreading plant forms thick mats with red stems and smooth, paddle-shaped leaves. It prefers compact soil and full sun. Purslane has a tangy flavor and is high in omega-3s. Use it fresh in salads or lightly cooked with garlic. Lamb’s Quarters Often found near gardens, compost piles, or barn lots, lamb’s quarters have broad, dusty-green leaves and a mild taste similar to spinach. It’s rich in calcium and iron. Cook it like you would collards or blend it into soups. Wood Sorrel Often mistaken for clover, wood sorrel has heart-shaped leaflets and small yellow flowers. It has a sharp, citrus taste due to oxalic acid, so use it sparingly. Add fresh leaves to salads or steep them into a tart herbal tea. Staghorn Sumac This native shrub produces upright cones of red, fuzzy berries by mid-to-late August. The berries are tart and high in vitamin C. Soak them in cold water to make a refreshing drink. Be careful not to confuse it with poison sumac, which has smooth white berries and grows in wetlands. Late summer foraging depends on learning what’s available where you live. Conditions vary by region, so consult a local field guide or a site like Wild Edible to verify plant characteristics. Mushrooms to Watch For When You Forage in Late Summer After a few days of steady rain and warm nights, mushrooms begin to surface. Late summer brings species that rarely show earlier in the season. These fungi often appear fast and disappear just as quickly. Chanterelles Look in moist hardwood stands, especially near oaks or beeches. Chanterelles stand out with their golden color and ridged undersides. Unlike gills, these ridges are shallow and forked. Their scent is sweet and fruity. When cooked, they hold their texture and blend well with simple fats like butter or olive oil. Chicken of the Woods This bright orange fungus grows in thick, layered shelves on dead or dying trees. The texture is dense and chewy, similar to cooked poultry. Avoid specimens on conifers or eucalyptus; they’re more likely to cause digestive trouble. Always cook thoroughly before eating. Lobster Mushrooms Not a true mushroom but a parasitic species that transforms its host. It turns pale mushrooms into dense, red-orange lumps with a seafood-like aroma. The interior is firm and white, ideal for broths, stews, or slicing into sauté pans. Mushrooms are a key part of late summer foraging, but accuracy matters more than abundance when collecting them. Confirm species with multiple references, such as MushroomExpert.com, and avoid harvesting anything you can’t identify with confidence. Harvest Responsibly When Foraging Collecting wild food comes with the responsibility to protect the plants, fungi, and habitat that support it. Every plant you cut, every mushroom you pick, affects what grows back. Responsible foraging means thinking beyond your basket. When foraging, small changes in behavior have a lasting impact: Cut leafy plants above the root rather than pulling them out of the ground Take no more than one-third of any patch to allow regrowth and reseeding Use a basket or mesh bag for mushrooms to help spread spores as you walk Avoid trampling fragile plants or digging into damp forest soil unnecessarily Pay attention to where you are. Some public lands allow foraging with limits. Others don’t allow it at all. Check local rules before collecting on park land, near trailheads, or along water sources. In the context of late summer foraging, overharvesting is more likely as plant growth slows and options become limited. A measured approach ensures you can return to the same areas next year and still find usable and healthy food. The Value of Late Summer Foraging Late summer foraging offers access to wild foods that are often missed earlier in the season. Some plants reach full maturity in August, while certain mushrooms appear only after consistent heat followed by rain. Even small harvests can be useful. A short walk may yield herbs, berries, or fungi worth cooking or drying. These ingredients may not be abundant, but they are often more concentrated in flavor and easier to preserve. This part of the season also sharpens practical skills. Foragers must pay closer attention, move more slowly, and choose what to take with care. The process encourages better identification, stronger habits, and a deeper understanding of local plant cycles. What are you finding in your area? Leave a comment and share your best tips for late summer foraging. FAQs Q1. What is late summer foraging? Late summer foraging is the practice of collecting wild edible plants and mushrooms during August and early September, when certain species are at their peak. Q2. What are the best plants to forage in late summer? Purslane, lamb’s quarters, wood sorrel, and staghorn sumac are commonly found and easy to identify in many regions. Q3. Which mushrooms grow in late summer? Chanterelles, chicken of the woods, and lobster mushrooms are common finds when conditions are warm and wet. Q4. How do I know if a wild plant is safe to eat? Use a trusted field guide or regional resource. Never eat a plant unless you are 100% sure of its identification. Q5. What tools should I bring when foraging? Bring a small knife or scissors, gloves, a basket or mesh bag, and a plant or mushroom guide for identification.