Got aphids? Yeah, me too. Aphids are one of the most common garden pests around the world. They’re attracted to a wide variety of plants, and can do a lot of damage if large populations are left unchecked! But thankfully, there are many easy ways to control them – and without nasty pesticides. In this post, I’ll share 9 organic ways I get rid of aphids in my garden including tips for prevention, treatment, DIY sprays, and natural remedies like companion planting. Many of these tips can apply to houseplants too. Jump straight to control methods here NOTE: This post was originally published in June 2020 but has been significantly updated since. Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.  What are Aphids (what do aphids look like?) Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects. There are thousands of aphid species around the world. Aphids come in many different colors including grey, green, white, yellow, black, or red. Some are even furry-looking, called wooly aphids. I’ve seen all of the above in my garden! Young nymph aphids will appear as tiny dots on your plants. As the adult aphids mature, their legs are more visible as they become increasingly mobile. While they spend most of their lives crawling about, adult aphids in crowded conditions can grow wings to travel to new food sources and colonize new plants. Black aphids of every size, found on the underside of a nasturtium leaf in our garden. Nasturtium is a “trap crop” for aphids, which we’ll discuss more below. What plants are aphids most attracted to? Aphids will feed on a wide variety of plants including ornamental shrubs, roses, fruit trees, and vegetable crops. They’re especially drawn to tender new leaves and buds. In my garden, I’ve found aphids are most attracted to brassicas (like kale, broccoli, and cabbage), artichokes, milkweed, Swiss chard, carrot greens, citrus leaves, and sometimes leafy greens like spinach or lettuce. Different species of aphids flock to different plants! For instance, I usually see yellow aphids on my milkweed, grey aphids on brassicas, black aphids on Swiss chard and nasturtium, green aphids on my citrus and lettuce, and wooly aphids on my apple trees. They colonize on their chosen host plant, forming clusters and reproducing rapidly.  A heavy infestation of yellow aphids on a milkweed plant. How Aphids Damage Plants Aphids are “sap-suckers”, using their mouthparts to pierce leaves and stems to suck nutrients and moisture from plants. The initial damage is mostly aesthetic and localized, causing yellowing and/or curling leaves. However, a heavy population of feeding aphids can cause stress, nutrient deficiency, stunted growth, and in extreme cases, death to the infected plant. The younger the plant, the more susceptible to lasting damage it is. Some aphid species inject a toxin into the plant that causes further leaf curl, discoloration, and growth issues. Others can be vectors of plant diseases, particularly viruses. Aphids also emit a sticky, gooey secretion called honeydew. As honeydew coats the surface of plant leaves, it can lead to the development of sooty mold (a general term for several types of fungus that grows on honeydew). The mold doesn’t technically “infect” the plants but can inhibit photosynthesis in heavily coated leaves. Sooty mold is undesirable and unsightly on prized ornamentals such as rose bushes.  Sooty mold (from aphids) on one of our lemon trees Aphids and Ants Ants love the sticky, sweet honeydew that aphids leave on plants – so much so that ants actually “farm” aphids to encourage more! Ants will gather around, protect the aphid colony and the host plant, and even physically caress the aphids to increase honeydew production, effectively “milking” the aphids. So while ants aren’t usually all that attracted or harmful to garden plants themselves, heavy ant activity could indicate that an aphid infestation may be underway! Ant: “My precioussss”Image courtesy of TreeHugger (via Shutterstock) 9 Natural Ways to Get Rid of Aphids Now that you’re more familiar with aphids, here are 9 different organic ways to prevent, manage, or get rid of them. When I see aphids in my garden, I typically start with the most simple treatment methods (e.g. hand squishing or blasting them off with water) for minor infestations, and use DIY soap spray for more persistent problems. Remember that an organic garden isn’t supposed to be “perfect”. While we want to limit aphid populations so they don’t take over, aphids are also food for beneficial insects and wildlife! It’s all about balance. 1) Inspect Plants Regularly Become a pest detective! One of the best ways to organically control aphids is to catch them early on. Then, every other method I suggest below is exponentially easier and more effective. Your plants will also be more likely to rebound with little-to-no ill effects thereafter.  Make it part of your garden routine to regularly inspect your plants (e.g. weekly), which is something I suggest to manage all sorts of garden pests – not just aphids! Be sure to check the underside of leaves, and also in the centermost tender parts where new growth is. For example, I most often find aphids in the very middle of a kale plant, in a just-budding broccoli head, or other tight and protected places.  PRO TIP: Train your eye to recognize signs of aphid damage, before you even see the aphids themselves. Check out the photo below; I spotted the unusually crumpled section of that broccoli leaf from 10 feet away! Lo and behold, aphids were clustered and feeding on the under there, out of plain sight. I smushed them right away. 2) Squish, Prune, or Remove When I come across a small cluster of aphids, I simply squish them by hand. (Gently pinch, smush, and wipe the aphids off the leaf or stem.) This method may not be ideal for the squeamish but it’s quick, easy, and effective! Because their residue is quite sticky, I usually like to spray it off with water afterwards. Another easy way to quickly get rid of aphids is to cut out the infected area of the plant (when possible*) such as just a few leaves, a small branch, or other non-essential section of the plant. In more advanced cases, I often remove severely plants (e.g. a whole kale plant) to prevent aphids from spreading to neighboring plants. *NOTE: For some plants like kale or tomatoes, avoid cutting off the “terminal bud” or the primary growth tip that’s usually in the very center or top of the plant. If you cut that part, the plant will essentially stop growing. Sometimes we just cut our losses and remove heavily infested plants to prevent spreading. Our chickens LOVE their greens with extra “protein sprinkles”! 3) Spray Off with Water One quick and easy way to get rid of aphids is to simply blast them off with a firm stream of water from your garden hose! (Don’t spray so hard that it damages the plant of course.) This is one of my go-to options, often used in conjunction with the squish method. This method helps to a) physically remove the aphids from your plants, b) remove the undesirable honeydew, and c) the water pressure may even be enough to kill them on impact. PRO TIP: I usually support the plant or leaves with one hand while spraying with the other, gently separating or flipping the leaves over (and smushing aphids if needed) to make sure I get every nook and cranny. Blasting aphids off an infested artichoke head 4) DIY Soap Spray (Insecticidal Soap) One of the only “sprays” I use in my organic garden is a simple homemade soap spray. It’s gentle on your plants (when used correctly) and won’t harm beneficial insects! You can make a basic soap spray by mixing 1 Tbsp pure castile soap in 1 quart of warm water. See my full DIY insect soap spray recipe here along with application instructions. You can also buy pre-made organic insecticidal soap but it’s not nearly as natural as homemade. Soap spray is only effective against small soft-bodied insects like aphids, mealybugs, white flies, and spider mites (not caterpillars or beetles). It works by coating and penetrating their natural protective barrier (cell membrane), causing them to desiccate or dry out. That said, insect soap spray has little-to-no residual effect. It only kills on direct contact, so be sure to spray it right on the target pests. Turn over or peel open curled-up leaves as needed to reach the aphids. NOTE: After it sits for about 10 minutes, I like to spray the soap residue off with water. I also personally don’t like to use soap spray (or neem oil) directly on tender edibles that I’m about to harvest where flavors may linger, like on lettuce or almost-mature broccoli heads. See our DIY soap spray recipe & application instructions here. After applying a good layer of soap and letting it sit, I wash it off with water. 5) Encourage Predatory Insects Use bugs to fight bugs! Beneficial insects like ladybugs, green lacewings, and praying mantis are terrific natural predators of aphids and other small soft-bodied pest insects. Ladybugs in particular are ferocious predators of aphids. According to the Planet Natural Research Center, a ladybug can eat up to 50 aphids a day. That means that during its lifetime, a single ladybug is capable of consuming up to 5,000 aphids! During the early stages of their life, ladybug larvae are the most effective at controlling aphid populations. Yet ladybug larvae look significantly different than their adult form (see the photos below). Therefore, make sure you know how to recognize these good guys in the garden and don’t mistake them for pests! All of these images are ladybugs, at various stages in their lifecycle. Do not confuse the mini alligator-looking ladybug larvae for a pest! They’re one of the best beneficial insects of them all. Green lacewings also readily consume aphids, though not at quite the same incredible rate that ladybugs do. An average green lacewing larvae may consume around 200 aphids (or other prey) per week. To boost their populations, many gardeners buy and release beneficial insects. We used to release ladybugs in our garden each year, but now have a sufficient natural population that we no longer need to. Ensure you only buy native American ladybugs and not invasive Asian lady beetles! One of the best ways to encourage beneficial insects is to maintain your garden in an organic manner (never use broad spectrum pesticides), use companion planting and polyculture – explained more below. A green lacewing perched in a sunflower at sundown. Lacewings are most active at dawn, dusk, and even into the night time, so don’t fret if you don’t see them in your garden during the day! 6) Companion Planting and Polyculture Growing a wide variety of plants creates biodiversity in your garden, which helps to attract more beneficial insects and keep pest populations in balance, naturally! Plus, variety and polyculture – the term for mixing many types of plants in one small space – reduces the chances of widespread devastation by pests that are all attracted to the same crop. I highly suggest interplanting companion plants with your pest-prone crops. For example, tuck in aromatic plants like onions, garlic, leeks, catmint, marigolds, dill, fennel, and/or cilantro around your other garden veggies – all known to deter aphids. I’ve successfully kept swiss chard plants naturally aphid-free (usually aphid-magnets) by planting onions around and between the chard. On the other hand, some companion plants can serve as a “trap crop” and attract aphids – while luring them away from your veggies! Nasturtiums are a prime example. Aphids absolutely love nasturtiums. However, be sure to periodically remove infested trap crop plants to prevent the pests from spreading even more. Learn more and get my free garden companion planting chart here! A prime polyculture example. This is one section of our patio garden, planted with leafy greens like tat soi, mustard greens and swiss chard (all commonly infested by aphids) with companion plants of onions to deter them from the greens, and nasturtium nearby to lure them in instead. 7) Neem Oil Spray Neem oil is a natural, plant-based oil that’s particularly effective against small soft-bodied insects like aphids, thrips, spider mites, mealybugs, scale, and white flies. The oil coats their bodies and smothers them (or otherwise interferes with reproduction and feeding). Like soap spray, neem oil works best when directly applied to aphids. Additionally, the active ingredient in neem oil (Azadirachtin) is a general insect repellent that can reduce or prevent aphid infestations in the first place when routinely applied to plants. Neem oil should not negatively impact beneficial insects like bees, ladybugs, earthworms, parasitic wasps, spiders, or adult butterflies when applied correctly (e.g. avoid directly spraying beneficial insects or on flowers). Recently some pre-mixed, “ready to use” neem oil sprays have been found to be contaminated with other pesticides like malathion, chlorpyrifos, and permethrin. Therefore, I recommend using a concentrated 100% pure neem oil and diluting/mixing it yourself, which is the most cost-effective and safe. Learn how to properly mix and apply neem oil before using it in your garden. Concentrated neem oil MUST be properly diluted, emulsified, mixed, and applied at the right time of day to be effective and not harm your plants. Read more about using neem oil here. 8) Plant Purple and Red Varieties  Did you know that pests are less attracted to red and purple vegetables? They sure are! Year after year, the purple cauliflower, purple cabbage, and red kale in my garden is significantly less damaged by aphids and cabbage worms than their green counterparts. One reasonable theory is that pests can’t blend in and hide as easily on brightly-colored purple vegetables as they can on green ones. That would make them an easy target for birds or other predators. Furthermore, studies show that anthocyanin (the antioxidant-rich flavonoid that makes red, purple and blue-pigmented veggies so good for us!) is actually mildly toxic to some insects. It may even deter larger pests like squirrels! Therefore, try selecting and planting red and purple veggies as one way organic way to control aphids.  Purple of Sicily cauliflower – unscathed by aphids, while our green broccoli right next to it was hit hard! 9) Hoops and Row Covers  One final organic way to stop aphids is to physically block their access to plants. Individual plants, raised beds, or sections thereof can be protected with fine mesh insect netting or simliar row covers. I included this as the last option on the list intentionally… Since aphids are so dang tiny, hoops and row covers aren’t always 100% effective at keeping those little suckers out (especially if any are already present on the plants or soil). Yet if you cover young plants early on, and use the right type of fine row covers tucked in tightly around the edges, they can certainly help. Read all about using hoops and row covers in the garden here, including details on various hoop and cover material options.  And that’s how to get rid of aphids, organically! In closing, I hope this article gave you plenty of new ideas of how you can get rid of aphids in your own garden. As you can see, there are tons of effective options – and most of them are very quick and simple! Not sure where to start? Experiment with a few methods, and then come back to let me know how it goes. Thanks for tuning in, and best of luck! Don’t miss these related articles: 8 Organic Ways to Get Rid of Cabbage Worms & Moths Homemade Aphid Soap Spray Recipe 9 Organic Ways to Get Rid of Snails or Slugs in the Garden How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew: Organic Treatment and Prevention Companion Planting 101 + Free Companion Planting Chart How to Kill Grubs w/ Beneficial Nematodes Did you enjoy this article? Want to hear more? Stay in touch! Sign up below to receive weekly updates on new posts from Homestead and Chill. The post How to Get Rid of Aphids: 9 Natural Options appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

At a Glance: Early Summer Preserving & Jam Recipes Start with high-acid summer fruits for a safe beginner canning experience. Never alter sugar or acid ratios; they are vital for structural safety. Let processed jars sit completely undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours to seal. Don’t let your summer bounty go to waste. Seasons fly by so fast and it’s summer before you know it. Soon, strawberries and peaches will ripen all at once. Instead of letting good harvest go to waste, let’s turn them to jam. We have safe, proven recipes waiting below. Let’s build your pantry together. Safety & PPE: The Boiling Sugar Rule Boiling sugar syrup is stickier and hotter than boiling water, which can cause severe burns if not handled well. Keep kids and pets out of the kitchen during the active boiling phase. Never use standard kitchen tongs to move jars; always use a rubberized jar lifter to prevent slipping and thermal shock. Early Summer Preserving: Jam Recipes Guide High-acid fruits are the absolute safest entry point for beginners because their natural acidity prevents dangerous bacteria from growing. Here are the best summer harvests to turn into jam: Strawberries: The classic jam fruit. Blueberries: Naturally high in pectin and very forgiving to jam. Blackberries: Earthy, tart, and highly productive. Raspberries: Quick to break down, so perfect for soft jams. Peaches: A late-summer favorite that often ripens early in warmer zones. Cherries: Requires pitting, but makes a rich, decadent preserve. Plums: Excellent natural pectin for sweet-tart balances. 5 Jam Recipes for Beginners Important Note: Do NOT reduce the sugar. In traditional canning, sugar is not just for flavor; it binds the water and creates an environment where bacteria cannot survive. 1. Classic Strawberry Jam Recipe Strawberry jam is the perfect starting point if you have never canned before. It is bright, familiar, and sets up easily, giving you that classic summer flavor on your very first try. Ingredients: 5 cups crushed strawberries, 7 cups sugar, 1/4 cup bottled lemon juice, 1 box powdered pectin. Steps: Wash and hull the berries, then gently crush them. Stir the berries, lemon juice, and pectin together in a large pot. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil over high heat. Stir in all the sugar at once. Return to a hard boil for exactly 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, skim off any foam, and ladle into warm jars. STOP POINT: Wipe the jar rims, apply the lids, and immediately proceed to The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing section below to safely seal your jars. Ball Wide Mouth Glass Mason Jars with Lids and Bands, Used for Canning, Pickling, Juice, Jam, Jelly… Versatile glass Mason jars for canning and craftingIncludes 3 Jars of 16oz Wide Mouth jars with lids and bandsIdeal for creative preserving and storing $18.53 Buy on Amazon 2. Simple Blueberry Jam Recipe This is a deeply colored, rich preserve that requires almost no prep work. Just wash and crush. Because blueberries are very forgiving, this recipe uses liquid pectin for a fast, reliable boil. Ingredients: 4.5 cups crushed blueberries, 7 cups sugar, 2 tbsp bottled lemon juice, 1 pouch liquid pectin. Steps: Crush the berries in a large pot. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice. Bring to a rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. Stir in the liquid pectin. Boil hard for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat, skim off the foam, and ladle into warm jars. STOP POINT: Wipe the jar rims, apply the lids, and immediately proceed to The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing section below to safely seal your jars. 3. Spiced Peach Jam Recipe This recipe captures the deep warmth of summer fruit. Blanching the peaches makes peeling them totally effortless, and a dash of cinnamon makes it taste like it came from a hometown bakery. Ingredients: 4 cups finely chopped peeled peaches, 5.5 cups sugar, 2 tbsp bottled lemon juice, 1 box powdered pectin, 1/2 tsp cinnamon. Steps: Blanch peaches in boiling water for 60 seconds. Plunge them into a bowl of ice water to easily slip the skins off. Chop the peeled fruit. Combine the peaches, lemon juice, cinnamon, and pectin in a pot. Bring the mixture to a hard boil. Add the sugar and boil for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat, skim any foam, and ladle into warm jars. STOP POINT: Wipe the jar rims, apply the lids, and immediately proceed to The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing section below to safely seal your jars. 4. Rustic Blackberry Jam Recipe Earthy and traditional, leaving the seeds in gives this jam a hearty texture and saves you an hour of straining. It is a highly productive fruit that creates a thick, satisfying set. Ingredients: 5 cups crushed blackberries (seeds left in), 7 cups sugar, 1 box powdered pectin. Steps: Crush the berries one layer at a time in a bowl. Combine the crushed berries and pectin in a large pot. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add all the sugar at once, stirring constantly. Return to a hard boil for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat, skim off the foam, and ladle into warm jars. STOP POINT: Wipe the jar rims, apply the lids, and immediately proceed to The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing section below to safely seal your jars. 5. Bright Raspberry Jam Recipe Tart, vibrant, and incredibly quick to cook down. Raspberries break apart easily under a spoon, making this one of the fastest jams to move from the prep bowl to the boiling pot. Ingredients: 5 cups crushed raspberries, 7 cups sugar, 1 box powdered pectin. Steps: Gently crush the raspberries. Combine the fruit and pectin in your pot. Bring to a full, rolling boil. Stir in the sugar all at once. Boil hard for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat, skim off the foam, and carefully ladle into warm jars. STOP POINT: Wipe the jar rims, apply the lids, and immediately proceed to The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing section below to safely seal your jars. The Final Phase: Water-Bath Processing Once your hot jam is ladled into the jars, you must process them in a boiling water bath to destroy any remaining bacteria and force a vacuum seal. Do this immediately while the jam is still hot. Prep Before You Cook: Always wash your jars in hot, soapy water before you start making the jam. Keep the empty jars warm in a separate pot of simmering water so the glass doesn’t crack when filled with hot jam. Fill: Use a wide-mouth funnel when ladling in the jam. Leave exactly 1/4-inch of empty space at the top of the jar (this is called headspace and is required for a proper vacuum). Clean & Cap: Wipe the jar rim with a damp paper towel. Sticky rims are the #1 cause of seal failures. Apply the flat lid and twist the metal ring on until it is “fingertip tight” (just until you meet resistance, and do not crank it down hard). Process: Using your jar lifter, carefully lower the filled, sealed jars into a boiling water-bath canner. The water must cover the tops of the jars by at least 1 to 2 inches. Put the lid on the pot and boil continuously for 10 minutes. The Cure-Time Gate: Turn off the heat, remove the pot lid, and let the jars sit in the water for 5 minutes to acclimate. Use your jar lifter to remove them straight up and avoid tilting them to pour water off the lids. Place them on a thick towel on the counter. Do not touch them, press the lids, or tighten the rings for 12 to 24 hours while the seal cures. Common Mistakes to Avoid When Making Jams Making jam isn’t always cheaper than buying store-brand jelly, but you are paying for quality, autonomy, and zero artificial dyes. Expect a batch to take about 2 hours from washing the fruit to washing the pot. Mistake 1: Eyeballing ingredients. Baking is a science; canning is a science. Measure your fruit and sugar precisely. Mistake 2: The Inversion Method. Never flip jars upside down to force a seal. This internet shortcut causes false seals and spoilage. Always use a proper boiling water bath. Mistake 3: Doubling the recipe. Pectin is incredibly finicky. If you double a batch in one pot, it often won’t set up. Always make single batches. Mistake 4: Using fresh lemon juice. Fresh lemons vary wildly in their acidity. Always use commercial bottled lemon juice when a recipe calls for it to guarantee the exact acidity needed to stop bacterial growth. Mistake 5: Reusing canning lids. While the outer metal bands can be reused, the flat rubber-lined lids are strictly single-use. Reusing an old lid is a guaranteed way to suffer a seal failure in the pantry. When to Toss It (Safety Check) If a jar lid doesn’t “ping” and seal flat after 24 hours of resting, it is not shelf-stable. Put it in the refrigerator and eat it within a few weeks. If you ever pull a sealed jar from your pantry and the lid is bulging, or if you see mold or smell a fermented yeast odor upon opening, toss it immediately. Never taste-test suspect jars. If you get stuck, feel nervous about a step, or have any questions at all, please leave a comment below. We are always happy to reply and help you get it right! FAQs How do I adjust an early summer preserving jam recipe for high altitude? If you live above 1,000 feet, water boils at a lower temperature. You must add 1 minute of processing time to your water bath for every 1,000 feet of elevation to ensure the jam is safe. What is the best jam recipe for a complete beginner? Strawberry or blackberry are the most forgiving. They prep easily, require minimal peeling, and pair perfectly with commercial pectin to ensure a strong, satisfying set on your very first try. Can I reduce the sugar in a standard jam recipe? No. In traditional canning, sugar is not just a sweetener; it is a preservative that binds free water, preventing bacterial growth. If you want a low-sugar preserve, you must use a recipe and pectin specifically formulated for low-sugar canning. Why didn’t my jam set, and can I fix it? Jam fails to set due to incorrect measuring, doubling the batch, or not achieving a true “rolling boil.” You can safely remake runny jam by opening the jars and re-boiling with a specific ratio of new pectin, sugar, and lemon juice. Is making your own jam actually cost-effective? If you are buying expensive out-of-season fruit at the supermarket, no. But if you are preserving gluts of fruit from your own backyard, foraging wild berries, or buying in bulk from a local farmer during peak season, the savings and quality are unmatched.

At a Glance: Building Off-Grid Water Systems Start with garden water before trying to filter your own drinking water. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon; always place tanks on a perfectly flat, hard base. Elevate your storage tanks to use gravity instead of buying expensive electrical pumps. It’s stressful watching city “boil water” advisory, seeing your carefully tended garden wilt during a drought, or losing water pressure when a storm knocks the power out. As you start taking on more responsibility for your own food and household, you need systems you can trust. You can solve these problems by building a simple off-grid water system. Catching and storing your own water gives your homestead a reliable backup when city systems fail. You don’t need to drill a massive well on day one. Starting small just means you will always have water on hand to keep your plants and flock thriving when you actually need it, without the high costs or complicated plumbing. RELATED: Rainwater Harvesting Systems: Sustainable Water Solutions for Your Home What is an Off-Grid Water System? An off-grid water system is just a way to collect, store, and move water without relying on city pipes or the municipal power grid. We recommend separating your water into two categories: safe for drinking and safe for the garden. To build your skills safely, start with garden water. Watering your tomatoes with collected rain is a great first step into self-reliance that avoids the serious health risks of trying to filter your own drinking source right away. Getting Started: Building Off-Grid Water System Basics Before you buy any materials, you need to understand how heavy water actually is, how it behaves, and where to put it. STOP POINT: A full 275-gallon storage tank weighs over 2,200 pounds. You must place it on a perfectly level, hard-packed base like tamped gravel or concrete. If the ground is soft or uneven, the heavy tank can tip over and seriously injure someone. You also need to keep sunlight out of your tanks so algae won’t grow inside them, which means using dark or covered containers. Finally, sketch your plan on paper first, placing your tanks slightly uphill from your garden so gravity does all the hard work for you. What Are the Best Off-Grid Water Systems for Beginners? The best beginner setups use simple gravity and surface water instead of deep well-drilling or complicated wiring. Let’s look at four easy ways you can start collecting water at home, from basic rain barrels to bulk storage tanks. 1. The Classic Rain Barrel A simple 55-gallon, food-grade drum connected to your home’s gutter downspout is perfect for a suburban homestead garden. It catches the runoff from your roof every time it rains, giving you free water for your raised beds. To set one up, just level the ground under your downspout, install a simple plastic diverter piece into the gutter to route the water into the barrel, and add a standard spigot near the bottom so you can easily fill your watering cans. 2. The Gravity-Fed Bulk Tank If you are expanding your garden to grow a year’s worth of food, or adding a flock of backyard chickens, a 275-gallon bulk tank inside a metal cage gives you much more storage. You set this heavy tank on sturdy cinder blocks or thick treated timbers to keep it elevated. Once it’s set up, you can fill it using rain from a large roof or even haul water in from town, and attach a simple adapter to the bottom valve so a regular garden hose can water your yard. 3. The Simple Hand Pump This is the classic cast-iron pitcher pump you might have seen on old family homesteads. It uses manual suction to pull water straight from the ground, meaning it works completely fine even when the power is out. If you live in an area with sandy soil and the water table is less than 25 feet down, driving a metal pipe into the ground to attach one of these pumps is a tough but doable weekend project. XtremepowerUS Well Hand Pitcher Antique Pitcher Manual Hand Pump Operated up to 25′ ft Max Lift… Vintage Design – Our hand pitcher pump features a classic retro design, ideal for pumping in ponds, gardens, wells, campsites, yards…Cast Iron Durable Build – Crafted from cast iron with rust-resistant coating, our pitcher pump is built to endure. The thickened…Effort-Saving Handle – Built to fit the palm’s curve, this pitcher pump for well comes with a labor-saving handle, making pump smooth… $59.95 Buy on Amazon 4. The Haul-and-Store Cistern If you live somewhere with long dry seasons, you can buy bulk water and keep it in a large, stationary yard tank. A local water delivery truck simply drives to your house and fills it up. This guarantees you have a steady water supply when the rain stops, keeping your harvest alive as long as you prepare a highly stable, level gravel pad for the tank and schedule your deliveries early before the dry season hits. Top Tips for a Fail-Proof Water Supply When collecting rain from a roof, you need to discard the first few gallons of water because it washes all the dirt, pollen, and bird droppings off your shingles. You can buy a simple pipe attachment that traps this dirty water automatically so only clean rain enters your main tank. You also need to inspect every opening and overflow pipe on your tank and cover them tightly with fine wire mesh to keep mosquitoes from breeding inside. Lastly, because water expands when it freezes, make sure to completely empty your outdoor barrels and leave the bottom valves open before the first hard winter freeze so your pipes don’t burst. FAQs Is building an off-grid water system legal in the suburbs? In most places, yes, but local rules vary. Catching rainwater is highly encouraged in many states, but a few restrict how much you can store due to older water rights laws. Always check your local county zoning and homeowner association guidelines before putting in large tanks. How do I keep algae out when building off-grid water systems? Algae needs water and sunlight to grow. To stop it, you just have to block the sun. Use solid black, dark green, or thick plastic tanks. If you are reusing a white plastic bulk tank, you have to paint the outside black or wrap it tightly in a heavy-duty tarp. Can I use a blue plastic barrel for drinking water? Only if it is stamped “food-grade” and you know exactly what was inside it before. Never use a barrel that held industrial chemicals or soaps, even if you scrub it out. Stick to watering your garden with these barrels unless you buy them brand new. How do I keep dirt off my roof out of my rain barrel? You use a simple rain diverter. It’s a small section of plumbing that catches the first initial wash of dirty rain rolling off your roof. Once that small trap fills with the dusty water, the clean water flows right past it and safely into your main storage tank. How high does my tank need to be for a gravity hose to work? Raising your tank 2 to 3 feet off the ground gives you a slow, gentle flow that is perfect for a drip hose or filling a bucket. If you want stronger water pressure to push water out of a longer hose, you have to raise the tank higher.

At a Glance: Drying Herbs Harvest in the morning after the dew dries completely. Air-dry your woody herbs but freeze your delicate soft herbs. Snap the stems to test for hidden moisture before putting them in jars. Tired of spending five dollars on a tiny plastic clam-shell of basil only to watch it turn to black slime three days later? Or don’t want to watch your overflowing harvest go to waste? Drying herbs is the simplest way to stop wasting food and start building a self-reliant pantry. We’re going to walk you through the old-fashioned, foolproof ways to save your harvest so you can enjoy it all year long. RELATED: How to Freeze and Preserve Summer Vegetables What are the benefits of drying herbs? No need to throw away expensive store-bought greens that are about to go bad. You can dry them instead. You get to enjoy the bright flavors of your garden in the middle of winter. You know exactly what is in your food because they’re not contaminated with chemicals. Save money by never having to buy those tiny glass jars from the grocery store spice aisle again. What supplies do I need to dry herbs? A good pair of pruning snips or sharp kitchen scissors Natural cotton twine or string Clean glass mason jars with airtight lids A standard ice cube tray Good quality olive oil or melted butter An electric food dehydrator (only necessary if you choose the dehydrating method) The 3 Best Methods for Drying Herbs Here are the three most reliable ways to process your harvest based on exactly what they need. Method 1: The Traditional Hang-Dry The traditional hang-dry method is perfect for woody plants like rosemary, thyme, and oregano because they have very little moisture in their leaves. You simply bundle a few stems together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry closet or pantry until all the natural moisture evaporates, leaving you with perfectly preserved leaves that will last all winter without molding. Materials needed: Fresh woody herbs, pruning snips, natural cotton twine, clean glass jars with airtight lids. Cut your herbs in the mid-morning after the outdoor dew has dried completely. Gather four to six stems together and tie the base tightly with cotton twine. Hang the bundle upside down in a dark, well-ventilated spot like a pantry or unused closet. Wait one to three weeks for the home’s air to completely dry them out. Here’s where I got my drying rack: PROTITOUS 2Tier Herb Drying Rack Flower Drying with 25PCS Brown Gift Tags and 32ft Natural Jute… Contents of the Package:1 Herb Drying Racks, with 25PCS brown gift tags AND 32ft Natural Jute Twine, individual plant drying rack total…Herb Drying Rack Hanging: Our herb drying rack is practical and decorative, with gold drying hooks hung from large and small wood beads…Herb Drying Rack. First hang the herb drying rack in a suitable place in the room, and then attach the hook to the metal ring at the… $13.89 Buy on Amazon Method 2: The Dehydrator Using a food dehydrator is the safest way to dry soft, leafy plants like basil or mint if you live in a very humid area where hung plants might easily mold. You just pull the leaves off the stems, spread them out on the appliance trays, and run the machine on its absolute lowest heat setting to safely pull the moisture out without cooking or burning the delicate plant. Materials needed: Fresh soft herbs, a food dehydrator, clean glass jars with airtight lids. Strip the fresh leaves off their thick main stems to speed up the process. Spread the leaves in a single, even layer across your dehydrator trays. Set the machine to its absolute lowest setting, usually between 95°F and 115°F. Check the leaves every hour until they feel incredibly brittle and dry. Method 3: The Oil Freeze Freezing in oil is the best approach for delicate plants that lose all their flavor or turn black when you try to dry them in the air. You chop the fresh leaves up, pack them into a regular tray, pour oil over the top to protect the greens from freezer burn, and freeze them into solid blocks that you can drop directly into hot winter soups or pasta sauces later. Materials needed: Fresh delicate herbs, a sharp kitchen knife, a cutting board, standard ice cube trays, olive oil, freezer-safe storage bags. Finely chop your fresh soft herbs on a clean cutting board. Pack the chopped herbs tightly into an empty ice cube tray, filling each section two-thirds full. Pour olive oil over the packed herbs until they are completely covered. Freeze the tray solid, then pop the frozen cubes out and store them long-term in a freezer bag. This is the freezer bag that I use: Amazon Basics Reclosable Freezer Quart Food Storage Bags with Zipper Seal, BPA Free, Stand and Fill… Includes 120 freezer food bags, each holding 1 quartReclosable top has a double zipper closureStand and Fill base with same quart capacity $10.14 Buy on Amazon STOP POINT: The Verification Gate Never put dried herbs into a sealed jar until they pass the Snap Test. Bend the thickest stem. Does it bend like a green twig? It is not done. Does it snap cleanly in half? Rub a leaf between your fingers. Does it crumble into dust instantly? If yes, they are completely dry and safe to store. Common Mistakes When Drying Herbs Mistake 1: Hanging fresh herbs directly in a sunny kitchen window because it looks beautiful. Sunlight actually destroys the essential oils inside the leaves, leaving you with bleached, flavorless dust, so always dry your plants in the darkest room possible. Mistake 2: Putting dried leaves into a glass jar while there is still a tiny bit of moisture left inside the stems. This trapped moisture quickly breeds mold and ruins the entire jar, so you must always bend the stem to see if it snaps cleanly in half before putting anything away. Mistake 3: Trying to dry large, thick bundles of stems all tied together to save time and space. The center of a thick bundle will not get any airflow and will start to rot before it ever dries, so you should only tie four to six stems together at one time. Mistake 4: Washing the garden harvest under the sink and immediately hanging it up to dry while the leaves are still dripping wet. Extra water is the enemy of preservation, so if you absolutely must wash off garden dirt, you have to pat the leaves completely dry with a clean towel before you tie them up. Mistake 5: Cranking the dehydrator up to a high temperature because you are in a hurry to finish the project. High heat actually cooks the delicate leaves and ruins the garden-fresh flavor, so you must always use the lowest possible heat setting and just be patient. When to Throw It Out If you open a jar of dried herbs and see any white fuzz, or if you smell a musty, damp basement odor instead of a bright herbal scent, throw it in the compost. Never try to salvage moldy preserved food. Which herb preservation method is best? There is no single “best” overall method, only the right method for the plant you are working with. If you are preserving woody plants like rosemary or thyme, the traditional hang-dry method is the absolute best choice because it is completely free and practically foolproof. If you live in a very humid environment or want to dry leafy greens like mint, the dehydrator is your safest bet for avoiding mold. However, if you are trying to save delicate basil or cilantro, freezing them in oil is the ultimate winner for locking in that fresh garden flavor for winter cooking. FAQs Drying Herbs What is the best way for drying herbs? The best method depends on the plant. Woody herbs like rosemary are best tied with string and hung upside down in a dark, dry place. Soft herbs like cilantro are best dried quickly in a dehydrator on a very low heat setting to prevent mold. Do I need a dehydrator for drying herbs? No. While a dehydrator speeds up the process and is very helpful in highly humid climates, traditional air-drying works perfectly for most woody herbs. Simply hang them in a dark, well-ventilated area. Why shouldn’t I dry my herbs in the sun? Generic advice often shows herbs hanging in sunny kitchen windows, but UV light degrades the plant’s essential oils. This bleaches the color and destroys the flavor you are working so hard to preserve. Always dry and store your harvest in the dark. How long do dried herbs actually last? When dried completely and stored in an airtight glass jar in a dark pantry, they will retain their peak flavor for 6 to 12 months. After a year, they are still safe to eat, but they will lose their culinary punch and taste a bit dusty. Is it cheaper to grow and dry my own herbs? Absolutely. A single organic rosemary plant costs about $4 at a nursery and will provide pounds of fresh and dried herbs for years. Store-bought dried herbs often cost $5 or more for a tiny, stale jar that has been sitting on a truck for months.

Read the original post "Homemade English Muffins" on A Modern Homestead. English muffins are a delightful breakfast option, and homemade English muffins are even better! Made with fresh milled flour, these English muffins are fluffy and perfect for spreading with jam and butter! My mom loved the classic Thomas’ English muffins when I was growing up. We always had a package of them in the house,... Read More The post "Homemade English Muffins" appeared first on A Modern Homestead.