More homesteaders are growing their own wheat. With the right seed and a small plot, you can raise a grain crop that feeds your household and stores dry for months. Homegrown wheat puts you in charge of your pantry. It supports baking, fills out food storage, and keeps your shelves steady when stores run short of supplies. This guide walks through how to grow, harvest, and mill wheat from your own land—step by step. Choose a Wheat Type That Matches Your Climate Wheat comes in two seasonal types: spring and winter. Winter wheat is planted in the fall and harvested in early summer. It works well in areas with mild winters. Spring wheat is planted in early spring and harvested later in the year. It’s better for cold regions with harsh winters. Hard wheat has more protein, which helps bread rise and hold its shape. Soft wheat has less protein and creates a tender crumb, making it better for pancakes, pastries, and other recipes that don’t need strong gluten development. You can buy small-scale seed packs from True Leaf Market or Johnny’s Selected Seeds, both of which carry varieties for home growers. How to Plant and Grow Homegrown Wheat Start by loosening the soil. Clear the space of weeds and add compost if the ground feels dry or compacted. Spread wheat seed across the plot. Aim for even coverage. Rake lightly to bury the seed just below the surface. Press the ground with your feet or a board to ensure contact. Water gently and wait for sprouts to appear. Like any other plant, wheat needs sunlight and good drainage. After sprouting, it grows without much care. Keep the area weeded and avoid walking across the field once stems start to thicken. Wheat usually matures in about 120 days and by this time, the stalks will turn golden which means they’re ready. When and How to Harvest Wheat Check the heads when they’ve turned dry and brittle. Test a kernel with your teeth. If it’s soft or chalky, wait a few more days. If it’s firm and breaks cleanly, you’re ready to cut. Use hand pruners, a sickle, or a scythe to gather wheat stems. Tie the stalks into bundles and hang them in a dry, well-ventilated spot. Leave them to cure for one to two weeks before threshing. Threshing and Winnowing Your Wheat Threshing breaks the kernels loose from the husk. Here are two ways to do it: Lay the stalks on a tarp and walk across them until the grain separates. Place stalks in a bin and beat them with a broom handle or stick. In addition, winnowing removes the chaff. Pour the grain between two buckets in front of a box fan. The wind will carry away the light husk material and leave clean grain behind. Milling Homegrown Wheat into Flour Once the wheat berries are clean and dry, you can grind them into flour. Choose a hand-crank grain mill or an electric version that handles hard grains. Rinse the wheat briefly and let it dry fully. Feed it into your mill in small batches. Store the resulting flour in a cool, dry container with a tight lid. Fresh flour works well for baking but won’t last long on the shelf. Freeze any extra flour you won’t use within a week or two. How Much Wheat Can You Grow? Use this table to estimate how much wheat you can expect from different plot sizes: Area Planted Wheat Harvested Flour Yield 100 sq ft 8–10 pounds 6–7 pounds 500 sq ft 40–50 pounds 35–40 pounds 1,000 sq ft 80–100 pounds 70–85 pounds A small family that bakes weekly might need around 70 pounds of flour each year. That’s achievable with one or two beds of wheat. Why Homegrown Wheat Is Worth It Wheat is one of the few crops that stores dry and feeds your home year-round. Once stored, wheat berries last for months without refrigeration. Growing and milling your own grain gives you more than flour. It offers food security, long-term savings, and a stronger connection to your land. What questions do you have about growing wheat at home? Drop your tips, trials, or favorite wheat varieties. We’d love to hear what’s growing on your homestead. FAQ: Homegrown Wheat Can I grow wheat in a raised bed? Yes. Just make sure it’s deep enough for the roots and gets full sun. When is the best time to harvest? When the stalks turn golden and the grain feels hard. Avoid cutting while the kernels are still soft. What type of wheat should I grow for bread? Look for hard red or hard white wheat. These have more protein and help bread rise. Is special equipment required to grind wheat? No. A basic grain mill works fine. Manual options are more affordable and work without electricity. Can I reuse seed from my own crop? Yes. Let part of your wheat fully mature, then save and dry those kernels for the next season.

Picking your first homesteading flock between ducks vs chickens isn’t always easy. You’ll hear pros and cons on both sides. Chickens grow fast and lay steady. Ducks handle the cold well, stay calmer, and keep laying even when other birds slow down. However, these two species behave differently, and the care they need doesn’t always match. One splashes water around the yard. The other scratches, pecks, and claims a favorite perch. Some start laying early but slow down when the days shorten. Others keep going but need extra cleanup. This guide breaks down eggs, meat, and daily upkeep to help you match the bird to your land and workload. Egg Production: How They Lay and What You Can Expect Chickens and ducks both provide a steady egg supply, but they don’t lay in the same way or with the same timing. Most hens begin laying at five to six months old. Common breeds produce four to six medium eggs each week. However, their egg production slows down when daylight starts to shorten That is unless you use supplemental lighting. Meanwhile, ducks take a few weeks longer to start laying, but they often provide five to seven larger eggs per week. Many duck breeds keep laying through cold months without extra light. Duck eggs tend to be richer and slightly higher in fat. Some homesteaders prefer them for baking. Others stick with chicken eggs for everyday use. For winter egg production and larger eggs, ducks hold the advantage. For fast-starting layers and familiar flavor, chickens are a solid choice. Meat Birds: Processing, Growth, and Table Quality Chickens are often chosen for meat because they grow quickly and are easier to process. Meat breeds like Cornish Cross are ready for butchering by eight to twelve weeks. Their meat is mild and familiar, and most people can pluck and clean them with basic kitchen equipment. On the other hand, ducks grow more slowly. Most breeds take ten to fourteen weeks to reach processing weight. Their meat is darker and has more fat, and this richness is great for roasting. However, some homesteaders find the extra fat makes cooking trickier. Plucking ducks also takes more effort. Their feathers are denser and stick tighter to the skin. You may need warm water or wax to get a clean result. If you want faster processing and simple prep, chickens are easier. If you value richer meat and don’t mind a longer timeline, ducks are worth the wait. Daily Care: What Each Bird Needs from You Chickens and ducks require different setups, and that can change how much daily work they require. Chickens need dry, draft-free coops with roosts and nesting boxes. Wet bedding leads to health problems, so ventilation and dry ground matter. They don’t require much space but do need frequent dust baths and room to scratch. Meanwhile, ducks need water deep enough to dunk their heads. They sleep on the ground and don’t use roosts or boxes. They handle cold and wet weather better than chickens, but their water play creates mud and soaks bedding quickly. This adds more cleanup to your weekly routine. Fencing also matters. Ducks are less likely to fly, but they can squeeze through gaps. Chickens may try to roost in trees if the run is too small. If you want less water mess and easier housing, chickens are more manageable. If your land stays damp, or you’re in a wet climate, ducks are more resilient. Comparison Chart: Raising Ducks vs. Chickens Feature Chickens Ducks Egg Output 4–6 medium eggs/week 5–7 large eggs/week Egg Season Slows in winter without added light Lays through winter without assistance Meat Flavor Mild, white meat Rich, dark meat with more fat Harvest Time 8–12 weeks 10–14 weeks Processing Easier to pluck and clean Feathers are harder to remove Shelter Needs Dry bedding, roosts, and boxes Ground-level shelter, wetter bedding Mess Level Cleaner overall Requires more cleanup near water Cold Tolerance Needs added heat and dry space Hardy in cold and wet conditions What Experienced Homesteaders Recommend The University of Minnesota Extension highlights how duck breeds thrive in damp environments and continue laying through the winter. They also explain how ducks fit into mixed flocks and what types of water setup they need. For beginner chicken keepers, Backyard Poultry provides guides on breed selection, housing, and feed management. They recommend breeds like Australorps and Buff Orpingtons for their calm nature and steady egg output. These resources can help you fine-tune your decision based on land, climate, and long-term goals. Raising Ducks vs. Chickens: Choose What Works for You The right bird for your homestead depends on what you need most. If you want fast egg layers and simple care, chickens are a good start. If you need eggs through winter and a bird that handles damp weather, ducks may be the better fit. You can also try a small flock of each and see how they do on your land. With the right setup, they can live side by side, with each one bringing something useful to the table. Tried raising both birds? Made a switch? Let us know what worked for you! FAQ: Raising Ducks vs. Chickens Can ducks and chickens share the same coop? Yes, but they need different features. Ducks sleep on the ground and need water access. Chickens need roosts and prefer dry space. Do ducks need a pond? No, but they need water deep enough to clean their eyes and nostrils. A tub or trough works if you keep it clean. Which is louder—ducks or chickens? It depends on the breed. Some chickens are loud during laying. Some ducks, especially females, quack loudly when excited or startled. Can I raise both in a small backyard? Yes, but give each bird enough room and make sure water doesn’t soak the whole yard. Keep the coop clean and adjust as needed. Do ducks lay eggs in the same place every day? Not always. Ducks often hide eggs or lay them on the ground. You may need to check a few spots during collection.

Drying food lets you store it without refrigeration. That matters when power fails or when you need shelf-stable food during hot months. A solar dehydrator uses sunlight and airflow to remove moisture without electricity or fuel. You don’t need advanced tools or special parts to build one. You can set up a basic system that dries fruits, vegetables, herbs, and meat using sunlight alone., your dehydrator should work season after season with little maintenance. What a Solar Dehydrator Does and How It Works A solar dehydrator pulls air through a dark, enclosed chamber. Sunlight warms the interior, and that heat draws moisture out of food. Vents allow air to pass in at the bottom and exit at the top. This upward airflow carries water vapor away. In contrast to ovens or electric units, a solar dehydrator works slowly and doesn’t require external power sources. Dehydrated food will stay raw but will also become shelf-stable. With the right setup, the process works reliably during warm, dry weather. This guide from the University of Georgia offers more insight into how solar dehydration works on a technical level. Materials You’ll Need You can build this dehydrator using the following materials: Untreated plywood or OSB board Clear plastic panel or old window glass Black paint (non-toxic and matte) Food-safe mesh or aluminum screen Screws, hinges, small handles Saw, drill, and tape measure Choose mesh that won’t react with food or trap moisture. Avoid repurposed metal that once handled industrial chemicals. Step-by-Step: Building the Solar Dehydrator The following solar dehydrator design can be built t within a day, so you can start drying right away. 1. Build the frame Start by cutting four panels to create a box about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 1 foot deep. Make the back panel a few inches taller than the front to create a natural slope. 2. Paint the interior Coat the inside surfaces with black paint. This color helps absorb heat. Allow the paint to dry fully before continuing. 3. Add tray supports Install rails or ledges to hold several drying trays. Make sure there’s space between each level, so air can move freely. 4. Build the trays Use wooden frames with mesh stretched across. Each tray should be able to slide in and out easily but leave room for airflow. 5. Attach the clear cover Secure a clear sheet over the top. Use hinges if you want to open and close it. The angled top helps trap sunlight and improves heat buildup. 6. Cut and cover vent holes Drill several holes near the base and top. These create air movement throughout the box. Cover each hole with mesh to keep out pests. 7. Install the access door To complete the main box, attach a panel with hinges at the front or back. This gives you access to the trays and makes cleaning easier. To finish the setup, place the dehydrator on cinder blocks or a raised stand. Angle it toward the sun for the best drying conditions. What You Can Dehydrate A solar dehydrator works best with firm produce, low-fat meats, and herbs. The slow process helps preserve structure, color, and taste. Apples, pears, and stone fruit Slice fruit into even rounds. Soak in lemon water to reduce browning. Spread slices in a single layer and avoid overlap. Tomatoes, peppers, and squash Cut tomatoes in halves or thick rounds. Slice peppers and remove seeds. Slice squash thin and pat it dry with a towel before placing it on trays. Herbs like basil, oregano, and mint Harvest in the morning after the dew dries. Use whole sprigs and remove thick stems after drying. Rotate trays if needed. Jerky (with pre-treatment) Use lean cuts. Heat meat to 160°F before drying. This step prevents bacteria from surviving the process. Slice thin and season as preferred. Food Type Prep Method Average Dry Time Storage Recommendation Apples Sliced, soaked 6–12 hours Sealed jars, cool shelf Tomatoes Halved or thick sliced 8–16 hours Airtight containers Herbs Whole sprigs 2–5 hours Dry jars, away from light Jerky Heated, thin sliced 8–12 hours Pantry or freezer bags Drying Tips and Storage Basics Once you’ve placed the food in the dehydrator, a few habits make the process more reliable. Drying works best when you control the slice size, layout, and timing. These tips help reduce waste and make sure your preserved food lasts. Keep slices uniform in thickness. Leave space between pieces for airflow. Rotate trays if needed during the drying process. Store dried food in airtight jars or bags. Keep storage containers in a cool, dark space. As a final check, bend a slice to test if it’s fully dry. It should feel leathery and have no moisture inside. If it bends without breaking but doesn’t feel sticky, it’s ready. Why a Solar Dehydrator Belongs on Every Homestead A solar dehydrator saves electricity, works anywhere, and requires little upkeep. It provides homesteaders a simple way to keep food long after harvest. Depending on your stocks, you can dry small batches or expand the system to handle more volume. Do you use a solar dehydrator already? Tell us what you’ve built or what foods you’ve preserved from your garden or livestock. FAQs About Solar Dehydrators How long does it take to dry food in a solar dehydrator? Drying time depends on the food, thickness, and weather. On a warm day, herbs may dry in hours, while fruit can take 10 or more. Can I use a solar dehydrator in humid weather? Solar dehydrators work best in dry conditions. In humid areas, they need better airflow and longer drying times. Use extra vents if needed. What’s the best place to set it up? Choose a sunny spot with no overhead shade. South-facing spots with long sun exposure work best. Can I leave food in it overnight? You can, but it depends on temperature and humidity. If nights are cool and damp, bring trays indoors to prevent moisture buildup. Do I need to monitor it during the day? Yes. Check airflow, rotate trays if needed, and watch for pests. Once you know your setup, daily checks take just a few minutes.

Come enjoy our simple strawberry rhubarb jam recipe – made with only fresh fruit, sugar and lemon juice. The perfect pairing of tart rhubarb and sweet summer strawberries is like nature’s candy! We love to add optional vanilla and ginger for an extra-special delicious twist.Using nearly half the amount of sugar as others do, our strawberry rhubarb jam recipe is considered low sugar but is still safe for canning. Or, you can simply store it in the freezer instead. I’ve included tips for both preserving methods. And even though it’s made without pectin, the jam is still plenty thick and delectably chunky.Did you know that rhubarb is technically a vegetable? Yet thanks it’s sour nature, it has a low pH (3.1) that makes it safe for canning in a similar manner as fruit. I was so excited to be able to make jam using our homegrown rhubarb this year, since last summer our resident California quail decided that the rhubarb patch was the perfect nesting spot – and we didn’t want to disturb them!Making Strawberry Rhubarb Jam without PectinYou do not need to add packaged pectin in order to make thick strawberry rhubarb jam. Our recipe relies on the maceration process, lemon juice, sugar, and a longer cooking time in order to thicken the jam, and it sets up beautifully!Even though both strawberries and rhubarb are fairly low in pectin, lemon juice is a great source of natural fruit pectin. Using bottled lemon juice is also essential for canning safety. Our recipe follows the lemon juice-to-fruit ratio recommended by National Center for Food Preservation, so don’t reduce it!IngredientsThis recipe yields about 6 half pints or 3 pints of strawberry rhubarb jam.2 pounds of fresh rhubarb stalks* 2 pounds fresh ripe strawberries* 3 cups white cane sugar 1/4 cup bottled lemon juice (4 Tbsp) – do not substitute with fresh-squeezed lemon juice since the pH can vary 1 tsp vanilla extract or 1 whole vanilla bean – optional but highly recommended! 1/4 tsp ground ginger power or 1 tsp fresh grated ginger – also optional*Whole fruit can be weighed before prepping, assuming minimal trimming is done (e.g. removing just the strawberry leaves and base of the rhubarb stems). You can use more or less rhubarb or strawberries depending on what is available to you, as long as it equals 4 pounds of fresh fruit total (e.g. 2.5 pounds strawberries and 1.5 pounds rhubarb). Choose fruit that is free of bruises or blemishes.Can I use less sugar in this recipe?Yes, you can safely reduce the volume of sugar by up to 1 cup (e.g. use 2 cups sugar to 4 pounds fresh fruit, like we do in our low sugar apricot jam and low sugar peach jam recipes) but note that this particular jam may not become as thick or set as well. Let us know in the comments if you try! Also keep in mind that our strawberry rhubarb jam recipe already calls for far less sugar than traditional jam recipes.Time and MacerationThis recipe uses maceration to help naturally thicken the jam. Since it’s important to let the fruit and sugar rest together for several hours or overnight, plan your jam-making schedule accordingly!When you mix sugar and raw fruit together and let it sit awhile, osmosis causes the fruit to break down, soften, and release their natural juices – similar to cooking, but without the heat! This is especially helpful if your fruit isn’t already super soft and ripe. It also gives the sugar more time to interact with the natural pectin in the fruit, thereby helping to thicken jam before it hits the stovetop. InstructionsWash the strawberries and rhubarb well, and then cut them into small pieces no larger than 1/4-inch. For more slender stalks of rhubarb, I simply dice down the stem as I would finely chop celery. For extra-thick stalks, I cut them in half lengthwise first and then proceed to cut into smaller pieces. Add the cut strawberries and rhubarb into a large non-reactive mixing bowl, and then stir in the sugar. Mix thoroughly to combine. Allow the fruit and sugar to sit (macerate) for several hours, overnight, or up to 24 hours for the best results. We usually prep in the afternoon, put the bowl in the refrigerator overnight (covered), and then let it sit at room temperature on the counter for several hours the following morning to warm up slightly before putting it on the stovetop. Instructions continued…If you’re canning the strawberry rhubarb jam, I suggest getting all your canning supplies (canning pot, sterilized jars, lids, etc) ready before proceeding. If you’re new to canning, please read up on the basics here. In a large non-reactive pot, combine the macerated strawberry rhubarb mixture (and juices) with the called-for lemon juice, optional ginger, and vanilla bean*. However, if you’re using vanilla extract, wait to add it until the jam is almost done cooking, since boiling can reduce or change its flavor. Turn the heat on high to bring the jam to a rolling boil for a couple of minutes. Then reduce to a medium-high heat and cook uncovered at a vigorous boil for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the volume has reduced by at least one-third. The jam should significantly thicken around the 20 to 22 minute mark. Cooking the jam at 212°F or higher is what makes it set! Stir frequently, including the bottom and sides of the pot to prevent sticking or burning (especially in the final 10 minutes). I like to use a silicone spatula to make sure I’m scraping the entire pot well. Monitor the consistency. If your jam doesn’t appear thick enough or has too many large chunks for your liking, consider blending a portion of it. About 15 to 20 minutes into cooking, we like to quickly blitz our strawberry rhubarb jam a few times with our trusty immersion blender – just enough to break up some of the large pieces, not to make it silky smooth. I like a chunky texture! You could also scoop out a small portion to blend in a regular blender if needed, and then return it to the pot.*To add a whole vanilla bean to this recipe, slice it down the middle, scoop out the inner seeds/flesh to add to the pot, and also add the outer pod to the pot – but remove the pod later before canning.Canning InstructionsRemove from heat, and transfer the hot jam into hot sterilized canning jars with the assistance of a clean canning funnel.  Fill jars nearly full, leaving ¼ inch headroom. This handy tool makes it easy to measure headroom as well as carefully remove air bubbles from the jar. Use a clean damp paper towel to wipe the rims of the jars before adding lids. Add sterilized canning lids and rings. Screw on the rings to finger-tight only, not overly tight. Use a jar lifter to carefully transfer the jars to your pre-heated canning pot, cover with a lid, and vigorously boil. See chart below for processing times. When finished, transfer the jars from the canner to a cooling rack and leave them undisturbed for at least 12 hours before checking jar seals. (Do not stack or press on the top of the lids.)Recommended process time for Strawberry Rhubarb Jam in a boiling water canner.Process Time at Altitudes ofStyle of PackJar Size0 – 1,000 ft1,001 – 6,000 ftAbove 6,000 ftHotHalf-pintsor Pints5 min1015Table from National Center for Home Food PreservationTips for Freezing Strawberry Rhubarb JamTo freeze strawberry rhubarb jam, allow it to cool to lukewarm in the pot before transferring it into your freezer-safe containers of choice. We love these durable, reusable BPA-free freezer containers that come in a variety of sizes. You can also freeze jam in wide mouth pint or half-pint glass jars (not regular mouth, as jars with “shoulders” are prone to cracking in the freezer). Leave at least a half-inch of head space! For the best results, allow the jam containers to fully cool in the refrigerator overnight before transferring to the freezer. Storage and Shelf LifeStore the canned, sealed jam jars in a cool dark location – such as a pantry, cellar, or kitchen cabinets. For the best quality, use within one year. Storing jars without canning rings reduces the risk of false seals. Frozen strawberry rhubarb jam will also stay good in the freezer for a year or longer, though the quality will start to degrade with time. Once open, store unsealed jars in the refrigerator and plan to use them within one to two months. Signs of spoiled jam include mold growth, off odors or taste. Discard immediately if you suspect it has spoiled.Ways to Use Strawberry Rhubarb JamOn bread, toast, or PBJs. Learn how to make homemade sourdough bread here. With plain yogurt and sourdough granola, hemp hearts, nuts and/or seeds. On top of vanilla or coconut ice cream. On sourdough pancakes, which is particularly tasty with pumpkin seeds, almonds, pecans or walnuts on top! As a part of a glaze, topping, or filling for baked goods. Hellooo strawberry rhubarb thumbprint cookies! With sweet-and-savory snacks, like with cheese on sourdough discard crackers or sliced baguette. Now go enjoy your jam! We hope you all enjoy this recipe as much as we do. Please feel free to ask any questions and leave a review below! Print Strawberry Rhubarb Jam (No Pectin, Low Sugar, Can or Freeze) A simple strawberry rhubarb jam, perfect for canning or the freezer. Even though it's made and made without packaged pectin, this jam is still delectably thick! Course Breakfast, Jam, Preserved Food, PreservesKeyword strawberry rhubarb freezer jam, strawberry rhubarb jam canning, strawberry rhubarb jam low sugar, strawberry rhubarb jam no pectin, strawberry rhubarb jam recipe Prep Time 20 minutes minutesCook Time 25 minutes minutesMaceration (Resting) Time 12 hours hours Servings 6 half-pint jars EquipmentLarge mixing bowlLarge non-reactive potCanning pot (water bath)Sterilized canning jars and lidsJar lifter, canning funnel, etcOR freezer-safe storage containersImmersion blender (or blender) optional Ingredients2 pounds rhubarb stalks*2 pounds fresh strawberries 3 cups organic white cane sugar1/4 cup organic bottled lemon juice (do not use fresh-squeezed juice)1 tsp vanilla extract (or 1 whole vanilla bean) optional 1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or 1/4 tsp dried ginger powder) optional InstructionsWash the strawberries and rhubarb well, and then cut them into small pieces no larger than 1/4-inch.Add the cut strawberries and rhubarb into a large non-reactive mixing bowl, and then stir in the sugar. Mix thoroughly to combine. Allow the fruit and sugar to sit (macerate) for several hours, overnight, or up to 24 hours for the best results. Refrigerate and cover the bowl if more than a few hours. Prepare and sanitize all necessary canning equipment. Combine macerated fruit with lemon juice in a large non-reactive pot. Add optional ginger and/or whole vanilla bean** now, but WAIT to add vanilla extra until the few minutes of cooking. Bring to a rolling boil for couple of minutes, then reduce to a medium-high heat and cook uncovered at a vigorous boil for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the volume has reduced by at least one-third. The jam should significantly thicken around the 20 to 22 minute mark.Stir frequently, including the bottom and sides of the pot to prevent sticking or burning (especially in the final 10 minutes). Recommended: blend a portion of the jam to increase thickness. We like to keep it fairly chunky still though! Canning InstructionsTransfer hot jam into hot sterilized canning jars. Fill to 1/4" head room in jar. Wipe rims and add lids (rings finger tight only).Process in pre-heated boiling water canner per provided chart above for your elevation (e.g. 5 minutes for 0-1000 feet, 10 minutes for 1001-6000 feet – for pints or half pints) Store sealed jars in a cool dark location (e.g. pantry or cellar) and use within one year for best quality. Once open, store unsealed jars in the refrigerator and use within one to two months.Freezing InstructionsAllow the jam to cool slightly in the pot before transferring it into freezer-safe containers of choice. Leave at least 1/2" of headroom.For the best results, allow the jam containers to fully cool in the refrigerator overnight before transferring to the freezer.Frozen strawberry rhubarb jam will also stay good in the freezer for a year or longer, though the quality will start to degrade with time. Defrost in the refrigerator overnight, and use within one to two months of opening. Notes*Whole fruit can be weighed before prepping, assuming minimal trimming is done (e.g. removing just the strawberry leaves and base of the rhubarb stems). You can use more or less rhubarb or strawberries depending on what is available to you, as long as it equals 4 pounds of fresh fruit total (e.g. 2.5 pounds strawberries and 1.5 pounds rhubarb). **To add a whole vanilla bean to this recipe, slice it down the middle, scoop out the inner seeds/flesh to add to the pot, and also add the outer pod to the pot – but remove the pod later before canning. The post Simple Strawberry Rhubarb Jam Recipe (No Pectin, Can or Freezer) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Thanks to changes in the climate, rainfall is becoming more and more unpredictable. One week may bring too much rainfall, and the next, not enough. If you rely on your land to produce food, you can’t afford to waste water. That’s why rainwater harvesting still matters. Rainwater harvesting is a process that lets you capture clean water during every storm and use it long after the clouds pass. The great thing about this method is that you won’t need complex equipment to make it happen. A rooftop, a barrel, and basic piping can give you stored water wherever and whenever you need it. Once it’s in place, the system will keep working season after season. What You Can Use Rainwater For Collected rainwater works well for outdoor tasks. Many homesteaders use it to keep gardens alive during dry spells. It also comes in handy for washing tools, rinsing feed trays, or refilling troughs. Rainwater isn’t safe for drinking unless filtered and purified. Depending on your layout and requirements, you can route your system through a hose or a simple gravity line. The USDA’s guide to rainwater harvesting covers additional safety tips and design ideas for rural use. Types of Rainwater Catchment Systems A basic catchment system starts with a roof. Rain hits the surface, flows into gutters, and drains through downspouts. You can direct the water into a barrel, tote, or cistern from there. Each option works for a different scale and storage goal. Rain barrels hold enough to support a small garden. IBC totes offer more volume for larger planting beds or livestock use. If you need year-round water, a buried cistern stores it below ground where temperature and sunlight won’t interfere. You’ll want a screen or diverter near the entry point. This block leaves grit or bird droppings from reaching the tank. Use a mesh filter or sloped diverter to prevent debris from building inside. Choose containers that won’t degrade in sunlight. Food-grade plastic, sealed drums, or purpose-built tanks hold up best. Avoid using old containers that once held chemicals or fuel. Storing Rainwater Safely Maintaning a clean storage area is just as important as collection. Open tanks can invite pests, algae, or mold. Take time to seal every lid and check for weak spots. Start by cleaning out new or used containers before the first use. Check screens and lids each month to keep insects and debris out. Store your containers out of direct sun to limit heat buildup and algae growth. If water is used for animals, store it in containers labeled for food or drinking use. Keep it sealed until needed. Drain standing water between rainy periods if you don’t plan to use it right away. Practical Uses and Daily Access A rainwater system becomes part of your routine once it’s in place. Some homesteaders set up a spigot or hose connection at the base of each barrel. Others use gravity to move water from a higher tank to lower garden beds. The system doesn’t need to be fancy. It works as long as you can access the water when needed. During dry weeks, ration the use of water or prioritize crops that need more moisture. In rainy seasons, let the barrels fill and overflow to a safe drainage area. Watch your system for leaks, sagging lines, or pooling near buildings. Reroute runoff if it puts pressure on foundations or footpaths. For more on setup ideas, the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension covers rainwater collection methods adapted for homes, farms, and gardens. Rainwater Storage Options at a Glance If you’re deciding how to store water on your homestead, the chart below offers a quick comparison. Each option fits a different need, from seasonal garden use to long-term supply. Storage Type Capacity Range Material Common Use Rain Barrel 40–80 gallons Plastic or metal Garden and tool use IBC Tote 275–330 gallons Food-grade plastic Livestock, irrigation Underground Cistern 500+ gallons Poly or concrete Year-round supply Why Rainwater Harvesting Belongs on Every Homestead Rainwater harvesting gives you more control. It takes pressure off your main water source and lets you keep things growing, clean, and fed even when the weather turns dry. Your setup can start small and grow with time. It needs a solid catchment, clean storage, and regular upkeep. How are you collecting rainwater on your land? Got tips, upgrades, or lessons to share? Drop them below and we’d love to hear what works where you are. FAQs About Rainwater Harvesting How much rainwater can I collect from my roof? You can collect about 0.6 gallons of water per square foot of roof for every inch of rain. A 1,000-square-foot roof can yield around 600 gallons during a one-inch rain. Do I need a filter in my rainwater system? Yes. A basic screen or first-flush diverter helps keep leaves, insects, and roof debris out of your storage tank. This protects the water and extends the life of your container. Can I use rainwater for drinking? Not without treatment. Untreated rainwater is not safe to drink. You’ll need to filter, boil, or purify it before using it in your kitchen or for pets. What happens if my tank overflows? Your system should direct overflow away from structures. Use a hose or pipe to route extra water to a gravel pit, swale, or garden bed that can handle the runoff. What’s the best container for starting out? A food-grade barrel or IBC tote is a good place to begin. They’re easy to install, affordable, and hold enough for garden and livestock needs.