This is why you should own The Juice Plus Tower Garden, and why it is the single best vertical aeroponic indoor gardening system ever. I am a huge fan of all things efficient, good for the earth, and good for you. That's why I'm a huge fan of the tower garden. I recently learned about this amazing contraption, and I loved it so much that I found a rep to share it with you! Please check out this great article she wrote all about the tower garden and how it can change your life! I've already ordered mine, and I'll be eagerly standing by to start this tower gardening journey with you! The Juice Plus Tower Garden By Jen Bumstead It was June 2014 when I was first introduced to the one thing that would end my black thumb days forever, the Tower Garden. I had just begun my first week as a Juice Plus+ representative, the company that owns Tower Garden. I was at teammates house when she took us out to her back patio to show us her new Tower. It was love at first sight. From the luscious green produce thriving all the way up to the very top to the relaxing sounds of trickling water cascading down through the center column I was positive I would be owning a Tower Garden. It was in that moment that I knew I could do great things for my family and my community with the Tower Garden.   |   When fall arrived in West Michigan and our Farmers Markets closed for the season I decided it was time to invest in our health and become Tower Gardeners. It was the best decision I ever made. Our Tower graced our kitchen and became our very own fresh, organic, produce stand. What were once small seeds were now growing at rapid pace and as quickly as the snow falls we had seedlings that were ready to be transported to the tower. Within 4 weeks we had full grown produce! When I cooked, I’d harvest what I needed from it and leave the rest on the vine to keep growing instead of keeping in my fridge. We had fresh produce and herbs growing all through winter thanks to the Grow Lights. From its bounty I make my own salsa, pesto, zucchini bread & muffins, smoothies, side dishes, dressings, salads and more. My 3 year old has also been a big part of the growing process and has learned all about the different kinds of produce we grow in our kitchen. It has helped transform my picky eater into a healthy eater and seeing this in my own child made me want to share it with others.   |   It was then I decided to team up with 3 other tower garden moms to bring the Tower Gardens into schools through our organization Teach Learn Grow TG. Our mission is to help teachers find a way to seamlessly introduce more lessons on nutrition, sustainability & environmental awareness into the curriculum of all the local districts and starting them as young as pre-school all the way to College level education. Since we began our journey back in October of 2014 we have placed Tower Gardens in 6 schools and the number is quickly rising. Watching the students of these schools flourish with the Tower Gardens presence in the classroom has been a rewarding experience to both their educators and us. Today we continue to raise funds to donate more towers to low-income schools and communities in our area in hopes that they will help keep kids in school and be excited and proactive their health & environment. For more details on how you can get involved with Teach Learn Grow TG please visit www.teachlearngrowtg.com.   |   How does the Tower Garden vertical, Aeroponic, gardening system work? The Tower Garden vertical, Aeroponic, gardening system uses air & water to produce more colorful, better tasting & incredibly nutritious fruits, vegetables & herbs indoor or out, all year round, no matter the climate. Check out the whys & hows here:   Along with all the Tower Gardens many benefits, ranging from environmental awareness to health to sustainability it is also a much more economical way to garden and eat produce.   So, how cool is this vertical aeroponic system? Not only is it reasonably priced, compact, and easy to use, but it can ALSO bring fresh nutritious produce anywhere in the world, anytime of year, in any kind of climate. That's amazing! * You can find all the details here on the product's site! * I am so eager to start growing!! Although I do love going outside and getting my hands and knees dirty in the natural dirt while growing my veggies, I must admit that I am looking forward to the convenience of this invention. It will be much easier on my back. It will also allow me to grow some produce that I was not able to in my climate before! But don't worry folks – I will continue to garden and dig in the dirt with my flowers! This is an example of how modern inventions can be a very good thing and I will willingly embrace this kind of change because I know it is for the better! The Tower Garden can be purchased all around the world with 2 payment options available… Talk to my friend Jen for all the details on how you can order yours. She'll walk you through the whole process, including which tower garden is best for your home, what can be grown, and how these are being used to benefit society! Click here to talk to Jen and learn more.    I'd love to hear from you! Do you have a tower garden? How has the tower garden changed the way you homestead? Please let me know in the comments, and share this post with others!   DISCLAIMER: This post is NOT sponsored by Juice Plus or  Tower Garden  – I just REALLY like them & HIGHLY Recommend them!   Like this? You'll Also Like: Cool Solar Powered Inventions That Homesteaders Will Love 43 Off The Grid Hacks How to Grow All The Food You Need To Survive In Your Own Backyard 27 More Tower Gardens You Can Make

Introducing Fodder – what it is, how it can be used, and where to purchase it. But first, the fodder definition: food for livestock. The second question we will be addressing: What Do Horses Eat? Fodder Definition | Fodder & What Do Horses Eat? What is Fodder? Between drought and less than desirable economics, many have been looking for alternative feed sources.  Hay prices are rising and pastures are not getting enough rainfall.  Could there be another way to feed that’s not so heavy on the wallet?  Would that mean a sacrifice in quality and nutrition? Until recently that was a trade-off that many were forced to take, but there’s a new kid on the block called “fodder”.  Never heard of it?  You’re not alone!  Fodder is a sprouted cereal grain such as barley or wheat.  The sprouts are grown right on your farm or ranch, and the growing cycles are as short as 6 days.  They do need a precisely controlled environment to grow, but turn-key systems are available that do all the work.   |   Now I should be a bit clearer when I say “harvesting”.  You don't need a tractor, a shovel, a green thumb, or even dirt for that matter.  The fodder grows on trays with no soil, no fertilizer, no pesticides, and it takes less than 3% of the amount of water required for standard forage production.  Better yet, it’s on a rotational basis so you get feed every day, year round.  The roots grow together forming a mat that hold everything together.   |   1 pound of seed will turn into 7 pounds of sprouts that are ready to feed.  Horses eat the entire mat including the roots.  It may take a few days to acclimate to the new feed depending on the horse, but after that – look out!   Now, you're probably still wondering, what do horses eat? Fodder, the answer is fodder. Horses eat fodder. Horses particularly enjoy this fodder that I will describe below… This fodder is better than hay for horses because it's healthier, cheaper to get a hold of, and easier to grow.   image via   Will fodder cause colic? So what’s the catch?  Surely you’re thinking this lush green grass is going to cause colic, laminitis or be cost prohibitive.  We ask this because in the past grass has been avoided due to the colic. However, the key thing here is that it’s not a grass – yet.  A sprout at 6 days is dramatically different from both dry grains and green grass.  Grains are acidic in nature and although they have potential nutrients, they’re not in a form that can be easily digested.  As grains sprout hydrolytic enzymes breakdown compounds into simpler, more digestible forms.  What you end up with is an increase in available vitamins and minerals, and a neutralization of anti-nutritional compounds.  It’s a high protein, high energy, digestible (over 70%), wet feed.  Horses maintain better hydration during training, events, or racing.  The digestibility means there’s not an excess of non-structural carbohydrates (i.e., NSC, sugars) to move on and ferment in the cecum.  This fermenting would eventually increase acidity, kill good bacteria, and cause body-wide inflammation (particularly in the lamina of the feet = laminitis).  The downsides of green grasses don’t exist in sprouted grains.   |   How will fodder benefit my horse’s health? Wes Leckner and Tracy Underwood, co-owners of the Santa Rosa Equestrian Facility, board between 90 and 100 horses at their training facility in northern California.  Tracy reports, “The health benefits of the fodder are amazing!  We had Clair Thunes, a PhD in nutrition from UC Davis, do an in-depth analysis of our fodder.  Basically, the fodder provides an energy dense, live feed source that has a consistent nutritional content in addition to greater amounts of lysine, vitamin E and omega -3 fatty acids than hay.   Many benefits that we have observed but don’t necessarily appear in the written analysis include shinier coats and an improvement in attitude and energy, especially in the older ponies at our European Pony School.  Our barn vet, John Kaufman, DVM, attributes this to the seniors (some lacking teeth) being able to eat, digest and therefore, get the nutritional benefit of the food…”  In late June of 2015, a small sprouting system will be delivered to Colorado State University.  They will be performing research on the effects during pre and post op equine surgeries.  With the known health benefits, it will be interesting to see the recovery time.  The university learned about sprouts through a local dude ranch using fodder.  They could see improved health in the horses and asked what they were doing different.   How to feed fodder to horses You can’t feed 100% fodder as horses still need some high fiber dry roughage in their diet.  You can however replace about half of your hay, as well as reduce or eliminate grains.  We’ve found that grain hays, grass hays, and similar feeds work best.  They actually slow digestion and improve intake of the nutrients in the sprouts.  Alfalfa and fodder sprouts however will digest too quickly combined, and do not work as well.  It is possible to have too much of a good thing.  Cherokee Park Ranch in Livermore Colorado put together a video about their fodder system and their daily routine here.   Is fodder affordable? So now the question – is it affordable?  It varies for everyone, but it’s extremely cost effective for most.  Turn-key systems have an up-front cost to consider, but the payback is typically 1.5 to 3 years.  Wes and Tracy brought in two systems built by Simply Country, Inc in an effort cut feed costs.  Hay expenses are reported to have dropped $200 – per day.  They have made a huge leap forward in their feeding independence.   If you’d like more information on how you can use sprouts, please contact Simply Country and ask about their Fodder Works sprouting systems. www.fodderworks.net  |  info@simplycountry.net  |  (530) 615-0565   Thanks for giving us a read! Are you passionate about homesteading? We'd love to stay in touch. Be sure to subscribe to our emails so you get the most recent homestead updates. Also, like our facebook!   Like this post? 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Planning to install a chain link fence? If you're looking to put a fence around your home or property, this fence idea may just be the thing for you. Get ready to add this to your homesteading skills. How to Install a Chain Link Fence There are a lot of fence ideas out there but if you want something that would last for a long time, a chain link fence would be a good choice. I wanted to replace our old fence and decided to install a chain link fence instead. So if you're planning on building a new fence for your home, check out this tutorial so you can start making your DIY fence. Remember: Before you start digging, be sure to check for any underground utilities.   Fencing Materials You'll Need: measuring tape posthole digger wheelbarrow shovel hoe carpenter's level 1/2″ and 9/16″ wrench hacksaw fence stretcher pliers tension wire clip chalk line stakes fence fabric posts gravel concrete batter board mason string   How to Install a Chain Link Fence From Start To Finish Thank you LOWE's Youtube for the awesome tutorial! You can watch the full tutorial at the bottom of this post. Step 1 | Measure the area you're going to build your fence in using your measuring tape. Mark the corners using a batter board and mason string.   Step 2 Start making a lay out of where the posts will go. The spacing is normally indicated by the manufacturer but it should never exceed 10 feet on center. Once you've done the measurements, start marking the spots with a wooden stake.   Step 3 | Now that you've marked and spaced out where the posts should go, you can start digging.   Step 4 Start prepping your posts. Mark where the ground level should be to make sure they're set at the correct height. Normally it should be the height of your chain link minus two inches and height of the chain link plus two inches for the end or terminal posts.   Step 5 Time to set your posts in the hole. Start with a terminal post by adding some gravel first to ensure that the mark you made earlier is level with the ground. Use some braces and clamps to hold it in place then add the concrete and water. Once that's done, work it out a bit so it will be two inches below ground level. Repeat this process with all your other posts.   Step 6 Now that the concrete has hardened, you can start attaching the fence hardware. Add the tension bands and bolts. Make sure that the flat side of the band is in the fabric side of the fence. For the corner post, you'll need to add another tension band for the adjacent side of the fence. TIP: Want to know how many tension bands you need? Measure the height of your post in feet minus one.   Step 7 | Add your top rail bands and cups by screwing them in place. When working with the corner post, be sure that the offset cups alternate.   Step 8 | | Add the post cap for the corner post and for the line posts, add the cap with the ring offset towards the fabric side of the fence.   Step 9 You can now slide the top rail to the line post top and into the rail end cup then tighten the bolts.   Step 10 Keep adding top rails along; sliding them inside the rings on your line posts. When you reach the other end of the terminal post, cut the top post so it can fit the rail end cup. | TIP: To add extra support you can also add an additional tension wire at the bottom of the posts.   Step 11 Now that you have the posts all set, next thing to do is attach the fabric. Take the end of the chain link and insert a tension bar in the end of the fabric and the tension bands on the terminal post.   Step 12 Unroll the fabric out on the ground and stand it up against the fence. Try to stretch it out as best as you can. As you lay it out, attach some wire ties to hold the fabric in place.   Step 13 Once you've reached the end, it's time to tighten the fabric. Remove the any excess first by opening the loop at the top and bottom. After that, just twist the strand out.   Step 14 To tighten the chain link, insert a tension bar about 3 feet to the end and hook the stretcher bar there. Then put a temporary tension band where you can hook the come-along and hook the other end to the stretcher bar. Now that you have this set-up, slowly crank it tight, up to the point where there's still enough tension that you can't squeeze the fence with your fingers.   Step 15 | Now that the fabric is tight, insert a tension bar in the fabric and the tension bands of the terminal post like what we did earlier in step 11. After tightening the bolt, you can now remove the stretching contraption you made to tighten the fabric. You're now done with one side of the fence! Yay! Just repeat the process for the other sides to complete your DIY fence.   Step 16 | Now that you've completed the fence, time to install the gate. Start with the post side of the hinges. Install the top and bottom hinges about 8 inches from the top and bottom of your post. REMEMBER: The top hinge pin faces downward and the bottom hinge pin faces upward. You do not want confusing these two.   Step 17 | Attach the frame hinges loosely to the gate and set it about 2″ off the ground, use blocks if you have to. You can now adjust the bottom frame hinge to attach to the bottom post hinge and tighten the bolts. Repeat with the top hinges.   Step 18 | Lastly attach the latch. Decide what height is comfortable and attach it with a bolt.   And that's it. Just don't forget to check if your gate swings freely. In case it doesn't, don't worry, all you have to do is adjust the hinges. To maintain your new chain link fence, just put oil on the hinges once a year and clean any dirt with a hose. | Congratulations on your new accomplishment!   If you'd like to see how it's done, watch this two part video from Lowe's Home Improvement:   What do you think about this tutorial on how to install a chain link fence? Do you think it's the kind of fence you'd be installing around your home or property? Give us a shout out in the comments section below. Have any homesteading projects you’d like to share? Share it with us an we’ll give it a try. We’d love to know what you think!   Like this post? I'm sure you'll also LOVE: Fortify Your Homestead with A Living Fence Homesteader’s Guide to Basic Carpentry Skills How to Amend Clay Soil | The Homesteader’s Guide

Fodder Systems for growing your own livestock feed are ideal. Why would I want to grow my own feed?  There are several reasons, here’s a run-down on the benefits of feeding live sprouts. Let the team behind Fodder Works tell you why… How to Grow Your Own Livestock Feed with a Fodder System   Feed Savings Sprouts (also known as “fodder” when used for animals) are economical to produce.  Typical cost of production is less than 6 cents per lb.  This includes seed, water, and electricity.  Although sprouts cannot replace 100% of an animal’s diet, they have been scientifically proven to increase the digestibility of other feeds in the gut.  That means your hay or grain will become more valuable to the animals you feed.   Animal Health Living sprouts are extremely high in nutrients.  The chlorophyll, enzymes and essential amino acids are all higher when the plant is alive and well.  You lose these benefits in dry feed.  Most notably we see improvements in hoof and coat condition.  In dairy rations, sprouts generally show an increase in milk fats and other components.  When mother cows are fed sprouts, the health of newborn calves is greatly improved.  We've seen weights of weaned calves improve drastically when sprouts are incorporated. There’s a video clip on that here:  Sue Hoek – Feeding Trial with fodder and calves   Moisture Content Due to the high moisture content (80 – 85%) sprouts can improve hydration in your animals.  Whether it’s dusty and dry or cold and frozen, they will get the hydration they need.  Whereas dry feeds tend to lead animals to drink more water, sprouts will significantly decrease water consumption.   Environment Growing sprouts uses less than 3% of the amount of water required for standard forage production.  Even in times of severe drought you can have fresh green feed.  There’s no fertilizer used, no pesticides and no soil.  The most commonly used grain is barley, which is primarily a NON-GMO crop.   Human Health Sprouts in animal diets have proven to increase Omega-3 levels.  This applies to meat, milk and eggs.  When the animals are healthier the benefits are passed along to us.  Thompson Rivers University in British Columbia is currently undergoing trials on this subject.  In particular, they are studying the effects of using sprouts in grass-fed animal diets.   Farm Land Vast savings can be had when it comes to farmland.  How precious is your grazing?  A system that takes up just 200 square feet can replace 30 to 40 acres of farmland.  When you think of the cost per acre for good farm land, it’s not difficult to see the value of a sprouting system.   How do I grow it? | The Fodder System If you’ve never seen hydroponically grown sprouts before, it’s a good idea to watch this video.  Shayn Bowler of Utah Natural Meat shows his daily sprouting routine.  Seeing is believing.   Green Grub – From Utah Natural Meat   Seed Sprouting – Step 1 You’ll need something to sprout in.  Commercial turn-key systems are available that produce anywhere from 110lbs, to many tons per day.  (Here’s a video of a system that can produce 10,000lbs per day)  If you need less than 110lbs, don’t fret!  Many people are building small DIY systems and sprouting in places such as their kitchen sink or spare bathroom.  It’s a little more work, but can be done.  For a small system, you can purchase specific fodder sprouting trays such as these or you can make your own.  Many people will find dollar store containers and drill holes in them for drainage.  You have to start somewhere!  Make sure your trays do not hold any water.  Good drainage is a key to happy sprouting.     Seed Sprouting – Step 2 You’re going to need some seed.  Barley seed is most commonly used and recommended.  The nutrition level of barley is extremely high and it’s commonly called a “super food”.  It’s generally a NON-GMO crop and can be purchased organic.  In case you’re worried about supply, just keep in mind the size of the brewing industry.  Barley isn’t going anywhere.  The most important fact to remember is that you want seed grade barley with a high germination rate.  It must be “whole” barley, NOT “hulled”.  This can be confusing on the phone if you call a local grain supplier, make sure you get the right one.  Certified seed has been cleaned to a specific standard and is ideal.       Seed Sprouting – Step 3 – Fodder System If you have a commercial sprouting system, roll the dice and move forward one step.  (Dice rolling not really required, you can just skip ahead to Step 4.)  Pre-soaking seed is often a necessary step for DIY systems.  You’ll want to place the barley seed into a bucket that holds water.  People soak for varying times, anywhere from 2 hours to 24 hours.  I recommend a 12 hour soak, but this can depend on how you water in step 5.  When soaking, you can use a 10% bleach solution, or vinegar to help kill mold and bacteria on the seed.  Mold is naturally on all seed and some sanitizing will be required.   Seed Sprouting – Step 4 – Fodder System Place seed into your sprouting trays.  With a commercial system and dry seed, simply pour in the recommended amount and give the tray a small shake.   This will level things out and make it a quick process.  With a DIY system we’ll assume you’re pre-soaking seed.  Take your pre-soaked seed and place it into your trays.  They’ll be somewhat wet and sticky, so spread them evenly as best as you can.   |   Seed Sprouting – Step 5 – Fodder System Keep your sprouts wet.  With a commercial system, this is done automatically.  Watering is done each hour for less than 20 seconds using overhead sprayers.  With a DIY system, I do not expect you to be up all hours watering your sprouts.  Just keep them wet as often as reasonable.  Over watering can effectively drown the seeds and they won’t sprout well.  If your seeds are wet and swollen but not sprouting, you may have overwatered.  After a day or two they can start to ferment.  This will confirm things if you’re not sure.  If your seeds are dry to the touch, water some more.  Overhead sprayers are proven to improve sprouting rate, but filling your trays with a hand waterer can still produce good sprouts.   Seed Sprouting – Step 6  – Fodder System This step is extremely crucial.  Barley is a cool crop and requires good climate control, especially during summer months.  Wherever you’re growing, keep your air temperature between 68 and 70 degrees.  Once again, commercial systems already take care of this, but you should still check the temperature now and then.  Below 68 degrees you’ll find that the sprouts still grow, but slowly.  Above 70 degrees your sprouts will grow fast!  But you can allow mold to grow as well at higher temperatures.  Keep an eye on your water temperature too.  For best results, keep a fan on your sprouts and provide some fresh air.  Stale, stagnant air is great for mold, bad for fodder.   Seed Sprouting – Step 7 – Fodder System Lighting is actually not as critical as one would think.  Light is important for chlorophyll to turn the sprouts green and does have some nutritional benefit.  However, this only requires a very small amount.  A daylight spectrum 6500k bulb is more than sufficient for good chlorophyll levels.  If your sprouts appear yellow, a little more light will help.  Too much light won’t hurt anything but your electricity bill.   | Seed Sprouting – Step 8  – Fodder System Grow sprouts, not grass.  Although pictures of tall green barley grass are impressive to look at, it’s important to understand that you want to feed sprouts.  Sprouts have not yet reached the photosynthesis stage.  Once this stage is reached, the sprouts begin to use up nutrients for more growth, increase in fiber and lose digestibility.  Just before the blade of grass starts to open is the ideal time for harvest.  With a commercial Fodder Works system this will be in 6 days.  With a DIY or other system, it may take 7-8 days.   |   Seed Sprouting – Step 9 – Fodder System If all goes well, you have sprouts to feed!  Pull the sprouts from your trays.  You should have a nice thick root mat that holds everything together.  The underside should be white, with no holes or discoloration.  This is an extremely nutritious meal that your animals will love!   |   Seed Sprouting – Step 10 – Fodder System Sanitation is also a key to consistent growth.  Once you’ve fed your sprouts, thoroughly clean your trays.  It’s not required, but soapy water or a light bleach solution can help.  You will notice a thin slime on the surface of your tray.  This is perfectly normal and is a surfactant that washes off of the seed.  It’s part of nature that protects the seed prior to germination.  Make sure to wash off the surfactant before reseeding your trays.  A Fodder Works sprouting system contains enough trays to grow on a rotation so you can have fresh sprouts every day of the year.  Once you know how many days your DIY system takes, purchase enough trays to produce feed every day.   If you have any other questions about sprouting, or Fodder Works feel free to visit their website www.fodderworks.net or contact them directly  (530) 615-0565       Like this post? 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What is the Homestead Act of 1862? How does the homestead act relate to western expansion, and to life as we know it today? The Homestead Act of 1862     The Homestead Act of 1862 helped settle the western portion of the United States.  This publicly surveyed land was open to all, as long as they paid their fee, built a cabin or barn and otherwise “improved” the land, and lived on it for five continuous years. After five years had passed, the individual attained title to the land.   To speed up the process, the government also offered an alternative arrangement. Individuals who could prove continuous residency of just six to eight months and met the other criteria of improving the land such as building a home, barn or fencing, could pay just $1.25 per acre.   Congress passed the Homestead Act on May 20, 1862, granting any American citizen, intended citizen or freed slave who had never taken up arms against the United States 160 acres of land in exchange for a filing fee. Any head of a household age 21 and over could claim land under the new act. Over 270 million acres, or 10 percent of the continental United States, was set aside for claim through the Homestead Act.   |   Such an act helped thousands achieve the American dream of owning their very own land. While it might not seem revolutionary to us today, in the 1800s many people taking advantage of the homestead act were first or second generation Americans.  Many fled oppressive European systems of class and status and life no better than a serf of tenant farmer on a rich person’s land. To own your own land was a dream they couldn’t achieve in Europe, but in America, it was possible thanks to the Homestead Act.   The History of the Homestead Act   While the act itself passed into law on May 20, 1862, it was in the works for many years prior to that date. Even as far back as 1787, congress had debated the wisdom of offering land in exchange for settlement and improvement.   By the 1850s, a vigorous national debate had begun around the Homestead Act. One earlier version of the bill passed the House in 1858, but the southern states vetoed it in the senate. Southerners were afraid that if free land was offered to all, it would open up new farms that would compete with their hold on American agriculture. This would threaten their position that slavery was a necessity to maintain the farms that fed and clothed the nation. A second bill passed both the House and Senate on its next go-round, but then-president James Buchanan vetoed it.   The Republican Party of 1860 campaigned on a platform that included passage of the Homestead Act. Republicans hoped that the act would both reduce urban poverty and expand settlement into new territories including Nebraska, Iowa, Minnesota, North and South Dakota.   The act passed in 1862, but many of the intended beneficiaries were off fighting in the Civil War. Soldiers who had begun farming on Homestead Act land who left their farms to fight were compensated with time spent fighting for the Union applied to the time on the farm, so they didn’t lose any of their land by leaving it before the deadline.   |   Effects of the Homestead Act Lawmakers had good intentions, but the Homestead Act failed to lessen the grip of sums in America. Many of the people they thought would benefit from the Homestead Act couldn’t afford to move out of the slums or build homes. The costs of wagons, mules or horses, even lumber and seed were too much for them to leave the slums even if given free land.   Speculators ran rampant, often gobbling up the best land in the territory at low prices.  The people who benefited the most from the Homestead Act were poor farmers in the East and Midwest who had some resources to draw upon and wanted to build a better farm elsewhere.   The Homestead Act was still in effect until the late 20th century. The last claim made under the Homestead Act was made in 1988 for 80 acres of public land in the southeastern portion of Alaska.   Perhaps the folks in American Gothic (painted by Grant Wood in 1930) found themselves here because of the Homestead Act.   The question remains: Would you have moved out west? Let us know in the comments.   Like this post? You'll also like: 133 Homesteading Skills for the Modern Day Homesteader The Ethics of Homesteading 43 Off The Grid Homestead Hacks   Article Sources: Homestead Act of 1862 National Park Service website. What was the Homestead Act? National Park Service. The Homestead Act on The History Channel. Our Documents, documents of the United States. image sources: millions of acres | homesteaders | American Gothic