Art of the Ancients: Colorado River Motorcycle Ride
Favicon 
ridermagazine.com

Art of the Ancients: Colorado River Motorcycle Ride

Tim Kessel searches for mysteries along the Colorado River. (Photos by the author) There is something truly awe-inspiring about standing in the presence of art created by an ancient civilization, especially when that creation holds a particular mystery. Having grown up on an Apache reservation in eastern Arizona, I have always had a curiosity about, and a respect for, all things Native American. It is with that lifelong intrigue that I packed my BMW GS and headed for the Colorado River near the borders of Nevada, Arizona, and California in search of the mystifying art of the ancients.  Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER After a night at a high-rise casino hotel in Laughlin, Nevada, I pulled away from the bustling modern town seeking things from a quieter, more enigmatic time. It was a late-November morning, and this often oven-like region had a chill in the air.  The Grapevine Canyon Petroglyphs are more than 700 rock engravings on Spirit Mountain near Laughlin, Nevada. The site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. My first destination was the Grapevine Canyon Petroglyphs. After riding northwest on State Route 163, I turned right on Christmas Tree Pass Road, where my trek continued on a graded road that’s a mix of dirt, gravel, and sand. The GS’s long suspension was perfect for this foray, but with care this road can be navigated on most motorcycles. At about the 2-mile mark, I saw signage for Grapevine Canyon. A short access road brought me to the trailhead that leads to the petroglyphs. There were no other vehicles in the small parking area. Just the kind of solitude I was hoping for.  With the kickstand down, I shed a layer of gear and navigated the sandy and beautiful quarter-mile walk to the petroglyphs. It was one of the most peaceful and well-preserved prehistoric sites I have visited. Other than shoeprints in the sand, there was little evidence of modern man. The well-defined stone drawings cover the rocks in every direction.  Grapevine Canyon Petroglyphs The animal, human, and stylized geometric figures were reportedly created between 1100 and 1900 AD by the native Mojave peoples who have inhabited the Colorado River region for centuries. While a great number of the glyphs are readily available for viewing, many of them now sit 40 to 50 feet under the blown and shifted sand. The meaning and purpose of the glyphs are unknown. Back on the highway, where the views of the Colorado River Valley are stark and expansive, I turned south on Needles Highway. This stretch took me through rocky crags, below pastel desert vistas, and near the banks of the Colorado River. After passing into California, I crossed the river into Arizona on Interstate 40, then took a southern exit onto State Route 95 and rode along the eastern bank of the river. One of the many colorful murals that adorn various walls in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. This one is “Farm to Table,” created by Rachel Keiser. Soon I arrived in Lake Havasu City, which is famous for being the home of the relocated London Bridge. But I had a different focus for my visit: the city’s large and vibrant outdoor murals, which are painted on roadside retaining walls and local businesses. They provided a colorful, modern contrast to the ancient murals I saw earlier. After lunch, I continued rolling south until I came to one of the most important stretches on the Colorado River, the Bill Williams River National Wildlife Refuge. The unique, naturally regenerating wetland area is a rarity in the desert Southwest. The blue waters, tall green reeds, and variety of waterfowl were visually stunning.  The Bill Williams River National Wildlife Refuge is an oasis in the desert. After leaving the refuge, I made my way through the striking red rock canyons of the Parker Strip before taking Agnes Wilson Road back over the Colorado and into California again. A southern turn onto U.S. Route 95 took me toward the final ancient intrigue of this ride. This stretch is a great mix of undulating road, with long sweeping turns as it follows the flow of the Colorado south through the beautiful, stark desert.  Signs indicated I was approaching the Blythe Intaglios. A short dirt ride brought me to a series of huge desert drawings that are protected by low chain-link fencing. These massive human, animal, and spiral geoglyphs, the largest of which is over 170 feet long, are dated from 900 BC to 1540 AD. They were rediscovered when a pilot spotted them in 1932. Interestingly, none of the Colorado River tribes claim to have created the intaglios. The mystery remains unsolved.  A bird’s eye view of one of the Blythe Intaglios, which are so large they’re difficult to view from ground level. (Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons) After a long day of riding and discovery, I made my way back across the Colorado River to a tiny cabin in Ehrenberg, Arizona. As I enjoyed a post-ride stroll along the banks of the river, I contemplated the intrigues I found upstream along this vital Southwestern waterway. See all of Rider‘s touring stories here. Colorado River Motorcycle Ride Resources Nevada Tourism Laughlin, NV Arizona Tourism Lake Havasu City, AZ Bill Williams River National Wildlife Refuge California Tourism Blythe Intaglios Tim Kessel is a lifelong resident of Arizona. With 50-plus years of motorcycling and 30 years of teaching English under his belt, he has melded those two passions into a gig as a motojournalist. Maybe that’s why there is always a permanent, satisfied smile under his full-face helmet. The post Art of the Ancients: Colorado River Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.