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Utah Motorcycle Ride to Great Basin National Park | Favorite Ride
This is the aptly named Parowan Gap, which is located about 20 miles from my hometown of Cedar City. (Photos by the author)
Ten years ago, doctors removed my left kidney – and the golfball-sized tumor attached to it. To mark a decade of being cancer-free, I rode my Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail on a Utah motorcycle ride across the West Desert to Great Basin National Park in Nevada.
Had the procedure not been successful, I would’ve only had a 10-15% chance of survival. After my first follow-up appointment, when the surgeon told me I wasn’t going to die, I gained a new appreciation for living in the moment. Riding is the ultimate practice in mindfulness, staying focused on the immediate and appreciating what is around you.
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I left early on a cool September morning, taking Utah Route 130 and catching the sunrise at one of my favorite places. Parowan Gap, located just off SR-130 about 20 miles north of Cedar City, has an amazing collection of petroglyphs dating back at least 1,000 years. I highly recommend stopping to read – and feel – the history.
Back on SR-130, I continued north to Minersville, a “sneeze and you’ll miss it” town. Over the next 20 miles, I only saw maybe three vehicles. Smoke from California wildfires obscured the mountains in the distance, painting them in layered shades of blue and purple.
Parowan Gap has many fascinating petroglyphs, rock carvings that were created more than 1,000 years ago.
State Route 21 took me northwest towards Milford, a small town with deep roots in mining, agriculture, and the railroad. It once served as the terminus for a Union Pacific-controlled company that served southern Utah, southern Nevada, and northern Arizona.
Past Milford, the next 80 miles are mostly long straights across desert valleys, interrupted by occasional sweepers as you traverse a few mountain passes. This is basin-and-range country, and it’s cool to ride over a pass and see the ribbon of highway stretching for miles through an empty valley before rising to the mountains in the distance.
Western Utah is a wide-open, desolate region with few signs of civilization.
This is also open-range BLM land, which means no fences but occasional cattle and deer. You might also see antelope, and a couple road signs warn of wild horses. With all this potential livestock and wildlife, long sightlines are appreciated, but riding at night is risky. I saw evidence of this: long skid marks followed by a maroon smear on the highway.
See all of Rider‘s Utah Motorcycle Rides here.
I only passed a few homesteads. Most were a good distance off the highway, and I might’ve missed them except for the clumps of trees in an otherwise barren landscape.
Great Basin National Park’s Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive lives up to its name.
Life in the desert follows water, and there isn’t much out here. About 10 miles from the Utah-Nevada border, I noticed a trail of green vegetation not far off the road that told me there was a creek out there.
In Nevada, SR-21 becomes Nevada Route 487, and 6 miles later in Baker, a left on Lehman Caves Road (SR-488) took me to Great Basin National Park. The two highlights of the national park – which doesn’t require an entrance fee – are the caves and Wheeler Peak.
Milford, Utah, is home to only 1,431 residents but was once the terminus for a major Union Pacific rail line.
Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive climbs 4,000 feet in just 12 miles, topping out at 10,000 feet. Here’s where you’ll finally get to lean your bike over a little. The speed limit is 35 mph with no passing. Traffic was light, so I could push my speed a little. But honestly, it’s a ride I didn’t mind taking slow considering how much there was to see over such a short span, with the muted grays and greens of desert sagebrush at the bottom giving way to the autumn reds and yellows of an alpine forest at the top.
The scenic drive is a seasonal road past mile marker 3, so check before you go. Parking is sparse at the top, but from there you can hike up another 3,000 feet to the summit of Wheeler Peak or hike among the Bristlecone pines, which are some of the oldest living things on earth.
Stalagmites and stalactites inside the Lehman Caves.
I stretched my legs hiking for about 30 minutes before winding my way back down the scenic drive to the visitor center to make my Lehman Caves tour reservation (something else to plan in advance). The ride down offered great opportunities to take in the amazing view for miles across the Great Basin Desert.
See all of Rider‘s West U.S. Motorcycle Rides here.
The cave tour was a pleasantly cool reprieve from the warmer temps on the bike. If you’re claustrophobic, you’ll probably want to skip this one, as there are several passages where you must hunch over to walk through. The caves are worth a visit, but they’re not particularly dramatic.
At 13,065 feet, Wheeler Peak is the second tallest mountain in Nevada.
As I made my way home, the smoke had mostly cleared, and as the sun started to dip, I could see farther into the distance. When I set out that morning with 10 years in my mirrors, I thought I would have some great revelation along the way about life and what it means to have come so close to death, but the truth is, I ended up doing exactly what I should’ve been doing – not thinking about much at all and just enjoying the ride.
See all of Rider‘s touring stories here
Utah Motorcycle Ride Resources
Utah Tourism
Cedar City, Utah
Parowan Petroglyphs
Nevada Tourism
Great Basin National Park
Paul Dail, who was on Rider’s editorial staff from 2022 to 2024, was born again into riding when his brother held up his end of a deal, dropping off a Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail at his doorstep. Since then, he has enjoyed riding it around southern Utah and beyond.
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