'A problem that needs to be addressed'

'5% of people are really good. 5% are evil'

Lobstermen in Maine are required to fish with a tracking device attached to their boats

Our Top 10 Nine Inch Nails songs list looks at a legendary industrial rock band. We are hesitant to name the group a band because Nine Inch Nails frontman Trent Reznor has been the only actual official member throughout most of their career. Nine Inch Nails is and always has been Trent Razor‚ with an assortment of different musicians hired over the years for performances. Nine Inch Nails’ first album‚ Pretty Hate Machine‚ was released just a year after their formation in 1989‚ while Reznor was still working as a janitor in a Cleveland recording studio. The next album‚ The The post Top 10 Nine Inch Nails Songs appeared first on ClassicRockHistory.com.

At the tender age of eight years‚ six months‚ and 11 days‚ Singaporean Ashwath Kaushik became the youngest player ever to defeat a grandmaster in classical tournament chess. He beat out the previous record holder by 4 months after defeating Poland’s Jacek Stopa‚ 37‚ in round four of the Burgdorfer Stadthaus Open in Switzerland. CNN […] The post 8-year-old Boy Becomes Youngest Player to Beat a Chess Grandmaster: ‘I felt amazing’ appeared first on Good News Network.

Rereads and Rewatches Terry Pratchett Book Club Terry Pratchett Book Club: Nation‚ Part IV By Emmet Asher-Perrin | Published on March 29‚ 2024 icon-comment 0 Share New Share Twitter Facebook Pinterest RSS Feed Even alternate history can’t stop this man from creating something kinder than what we’ve got. Summary The raiders arrive before dawn‚ and Mau has the alarm rung and brings his plan to fruition. Cox is in charge of the Raiders now as they feared‚ but it seems they’ve seen the cannons‚ so they want to talk. Mau knows they won’t talk to him because he looks like a boy with no tattoos even though he’s chief. He plans to send Milo or Pilu to speak. Cox talks to Daphne‚ tells her that he’s the new chief‚ and he’s teaching the heathens to speak his language. Daphne thinks the Raiders look just like men who work directly beneath the king‚ the ones who know it’s better to be advising the top than be at the top. She talks to Mau and finds out that only one cannon works and they only have gunpowder enough for one shot‚ but they use that shot to scare the group into single combat‚ chief against chief. The Raiders are panicked‚ so Cox agrees to the fight‚ thinking he’ll get to shoot Milo. Milo steps forward and announce that Mau is their chief‚ risen from the country of Locaha itself. The Raider priest steps forward to ask questions‚ disbelieving‚ but Daphne has all the right answers about Locaha’s country. It makes the priest nervous. Daphne tries to talk Mau out of the fight because Cox has a revolver and another gun‚ at least seven shots he can fire before reloading‚ while Mau only has a spear and knife. He won’t hear of any dissent‚ however. They are both required to lay their weapons down and the fight begins when one of them reaches for theirs. Because that is the only rule‚ Mau reaches first for sand and throws it into Cox’s eyes. He runs toward the lagoon‚ remembering that guns don’t like water. He dives in and Cox continues to fire at him‚ only managing to hit his ear. Mau ducks under a tree in the lagoon‚ and Cox reloads the pistol while Mau finds an old axe he buried in the tree during practice as a boy. Cox tells him that the sharks are coming and he wants to watch them feast‚ but he’s getting frustrated‚ spending all his bullets. Mau comes up with the axe‚ hits Cox straight in the chest‚ and the man falls into the water‚ just in time for the sharks. Mau goes to the Raiders and tells them to bring their captives to shore and leave. When he comes to later‚ he learns that Daphne has been performing surgery on the wounded captives using the manual she found on Sweet Judy. The Unknown Woman seems like a completely different person‚ with a name now—she found her husband with the captives. Daphne asks Mau if he would go back to a world without the wave if he could‚ but Mau cannot answer. There are two versions of himself‚ but this is who he is now. Daphne enjoys her life here and doesn’t want to leave it‚ but a ship has arrived. Daphne’s father is here‚ and she tells him about all the things that have happened to her‚ then brings him to the cave to show him all that Mau’s people have accomplished. Her father isn’t convinced and demands that she use scientific theory to back up her claims; he knows that others will try and disprove this. Daphne makes him promise that they won’t take anything from this place‚ that if others want to see it‚ they’ll need to make the journey‚ not steal away the Nation’s ancestral heritage. Daphne gets to spend nearly two weeks showing her father the island and helping him to learn that language. They play cricket with the Nation’s people. And then the Cutty Wren finds them. They explain to Daphne’s father that he’s king now and they need to do a cursory coronation right here. They’ve brought Daphne’s grandmother. But once the coronation is done‚ Daphne’s father finds his courage and manages to tell his mother to be silent and not insult their island hosts. Cookie did indeed survive in his coffin at sea‚ and is reunited with Daphne. Daphne’s father gives the Nation the option to join the British Empire willingly‚ but Mau’s doesn’t want that; he wants to join the Royal Society‚ and says they will welcome all men of science to their island. In return‚ he will give the king the gold door to their sacred place of record. They ask for a telescope and a large ship the size of Sweet Judy filled with books and salted beef and other things. Mau also asks the scientists who comes to the island share their knowledge‚ and they ask for someone to teach them more about medicine. A week later‚ the king is loaded onto his boat. Mau shows Daphne that he has received his tattoos‚ and they say goodbye‚ despite wanting nothing of the sort—they both must go where they are needed. And then we move forward to Today‚ where an old man is telling this story to two children on the island. They learn that Daphne became queen and married a man from Holland‚ and that they died within two months of each other—and Daphne demanded to be buried at sea where he was. The children ask if he believes in Imo‚ and the old man tells them that he “just believes.” Commentary It’s killing me‚ y’all. Because he did it again. We’re not even reading the Discworld‚ but Pratchett can’t stop himself. He created an alternate history to the world he lives in‚ and he made it to give us a kinder world. A world in which an island nation is protected from the horrors of imperialism because the princess of England (who rightly never believed she had any chance of becoming royalty at all) lived among its people and was clever enough and humane enough to understand how they should be treated. Daphne takes her father to the temple and he makes literally every argument that colonizers make about why this place should be stripped and transported elsewhere. He says “it belongs to the world‚” and Daphne tells him that is thinking like a thief because she knows that ‘belonging to the world’ to her people means ‘stolen and displayed at home.’ He tells her that the island is far away from anywhere important‚ and she tells him that this place holds import. He tells her that some will argue that the spectacles she found there were left by previous European explorers‚ and she tells him that they couldn’t have come here before because all the gold is still there. She makes this argument before she knows that she and her father will have the power to make that choice on behalf of their people‚ which is relevant only because it lets the reader know where her morals reside. But it’s likely that without this twist of fate‚ there would have been nothing they could do to protect Mau and his people from the rest of the world or England itself. But this book already started with the end of the world. It couldn’t end that way too. And it deserves marking because how often are alternate histories used to examine the worst options history had on offer? Nearly every time? Not this time. And it’s never done in a trite way that robs the story of meaning. The works is still hard‚ the thinking still needs to be done‚ and no one escapes without pain. There’s just that little golden lining at the end to reward people for trying their hardest and putting in the time. It occurs to me that Mau is exactly like Nawi—over time‚ he learned to use his disability (in this case‚ his lack of soul) to his advantage. Because that manner of difference often gives a person a unique vantage point on the world and their place within it. And it’s poignant as always that the fight against Cox at the end takes up practically no time because that’s not where the meat of the story resides; Cox is simply the obstacle‚ and not a very absorbing one at that. He needs to be stopped‚ but his cruelty doesn’t merit our time or deep thoughts. There’s nothing interesting about evil‚ to paraphrase Ursula K. Le Guin. In the end we come to a meditation on belief with the old man‚ a great-great-great-great-grandson of Pilu‚ living in present day. The children keep asking if he believes in Imo‚ and he gives them a lot of answers that aren’t yes or no. Until finally‚ he says: “I just believe. You know‚ in things generally. That works‚ too.” I’m trying to put my finger on a thing‚ because this is pretty much exactly how I wish we handled religion of any sort‚ including the kind we make up for ourselves outside of institutions. It’s sort of the faith-based version of “Strong opinions‚ lightly held‚” if that makes any sense? And I find it far more comforting than any answer-based faith can possibly be. Believe in things‚ generally. Which is to say‚ not specifically‚ and not virulently. Believe in some stuff‚ to exist. That works‚ too. And I come back around to the question of whether or not this is Pratchett’s best book. He believed it was‚ which is all that matters as far as he is concerned—because belief is how we’re made up. Do I think it’s the best? Well‚ no‚ but part of the reason for that is I’ve never really liked “best” as a marker. It’s too broad. But this book is beautiful‚ and I’m glad to have read it. Which is really the best any author can ask for at the end of the day. To write something worth reading. In that‚ Pratchett never had to worry overmuch. Asides and little thoughts When I started the book‚ I didn’t think I’d care too much about whether or not the parrot made it‚ but by the end I was so glad? It needs to live to fight the grandfather birds another day. A number of famous scientists get name-dropped for having visited the island in the modern-day section‚ including Einstein‚ Patrick Moore‚ and Carl Sagan. Darwin‚ too‚ of course. He liked the octopuses. Pratchettisms That was their law. The strongest man led. That made sense. At least‚ it made sense to strong men. All that mattered was this: If you don’t dare to think you might‚ you won’t. They saw that the perfect world is a journey‚ not a place. No one should call anyone delightful without written proof. “No‚ Your Majesty. We are forbidden to laugh at the things kings say‚ sire‚ because otherwise we would be at it all day.” “No more words. We know them all‚ all the words that should not be said. But you have made my world more perfect.” Next week we’re back to Discworld with Unseen Academicals! We’ll read up to: He was amazed that he had even asked the question. Things were changing. [end-mark] The post Terry Pratchett Book Club: <;i>;Nation<;/i>;‚ Part IV appeared first on Reactor.

There are all manner of caves to explore in Dragon’s Dogma 2‚ each with their own loot and creatures inhabiting them. If you want to make sure you’ve dived into every cave‚ then you’ll want to see this checklist of sorts. Every Vermund cave in Dragon’s Dogma 2 Vermund has 36 caves in Dragon’s Dogma 2. All manner of evils and rewards lay within. The caves are a great place to find good weapons if you’d rather not purchase them. Here’s a list of all the caves so you can keep track of how many you’ve dived into. Screenshot: PC Invasion Caves along the paths from Vernworth to Nameless Village: Coastal Cavern Timeworn Shaft Twilight Cave Spirit’s Path Underbridge Grotto Nameless Village Depths Caves along the path from Vernworth to Borderwatch Outpost and paths beyond: Mt. Alles Tunnel Cavern of the Forsaken Waterfall Cave The Mountain’s Secret Backwoods Nest Caves along the pa...

Will and Adam X-amine the 1989 pilot Pryde of the X-Men‚ which pre-dated the 1992 X-Men animated series from the same production team. Could this X-citing 80’s adventure concept have mutated into a successful series? CONTINUE READING... The post Remember That Show? Ep. 10: Pryde of the X-Men appeared first on The Retro Network.

Come learn how to make a DIY worm bin – video included! It’s easy‚ inexpensive‚ and quickly turns food waste into amazing nutrient-rich compost that will help your garden thrive. This post will explore the basics of vermicomposting (the term for composting with worms) along with how to start a simple worm compost bin or worm farm. We’ll also cover how to properly maintain your worm bin‚ including tips for hot or cold weather‚ what to feed it and how often‚ harvesting worm castings‚ and more. Of the all the ways we compost at home‚ vermicompost is by far my favorite. When people ask why or how our gardens look so lush and healthy‚ I blame the worms! We’ve had a worm farm for almost 15 years now‚ even when we lived in an apartment. We buy our compost worms from Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. Let’s turn this storage tote into a simple worm bin! Disclosure: Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site‚ we may earn an affiliate commission.  What is Vermicomposting? Vermicomposting is a style of composting with the assistance of worms. The prefix vermi- literally means “worm”. When added to a compost bin or pile‚ worms greatly increase the rate of decomposition. This means you’ll have ready-to-use compost in no time! In addition to the quick turnover‚ there are a number of other benefits to vermicomposting: Worm bins are very compact and tidy compared to other compost methods‚ making it easy to vermicompost in a wide variety of living situations or spaces. Contrary to popular belief‚ they do NOT smell bad if they’re well-maintained! Worm farms are a fantastic and sustainable way to dispose of food waste at home‚ which diverts waste from the landfill and reduces carbon emissions. The final compost that comes out of a worm bin (called worm castings) is arguably one of the best types of natural fertilizer around! So much so‚ vermicompost is often referred to as “black gold“. There is nothing better than a nice fat handful of worm poop! These finished worm castings are being added as we fill a new raised garden bed with soil. What are Worm Castings? Worm castings‚ aka vermicastings‚ is a fancy term for worm poop. Rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes‚ worm castings are a wonderful well-balanced‚ slow-release form of natural fertilizer! As worms eat and break down the food scraps‚ garden trimmings‚ bedding and other organic matter in a worm bin‚ the nutrients found in those materials become highly-concentrated in the excreted worm castings. Even better‚ the nutrients become more bioavailable‚ meaning the plants can make use of them more readily! Yet worm castings are also very gentle and cannot “burn” your plants like other animal manure or fertilizer can. But that’s not all! When added to garden soil‚ worm castings also increase soil aeration‚ drainage‚ biodiversity‚ and water retention. Cornell University refers to worms as a living soil amendment. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings for plants here. Supplies Needed Here’s a quick list of the supplies you’ll need to start a worm bin‚ with further explanation of each item below. A simple bin with a lid‚ such as a large durable plastic storage tote. Recommended: a drill and 1/4″ bit to add air holes to the bin. Dry bedding material‚ such as shredded newspaper‚ coco coir‚ dry leaves‚ grass clippings‚ shredded cardboard‚ or straw. Compost worms Grit or dirt Food or garden scraps 1) A Bin or Tub There are plenty of neat worm-tower systems out there‚ but inexpensive plastic storage bins or totes work perfectly! It’s what I’ve always used. Choose one that is durable‚ heavy-duty‚ and made of non-transparent plastic. (Worms like the dark.) Also ensure the top lid area doesn’t have any holes where rain can seep in. The blue tub shown in this example is 35 gallons‚ which works quite well. We’ve made worm farms as large as 55 gallons and as small as 15 or 20 gallons. If you may need to move your worm bin on occasion (such as to protect it from freezing in the winter – discussed more to follow)‚ keep mobility and weight in mind when choosing your bin size. Avoid these bins from Costco. Even though those holes seem like they’re on the outer rim of the lid‚ not leading directly into the bin itself‚ we have found they do let in a lot of water when it rains. Try to find a bin with a completely solid lid that wraps down around the top. 2) Bedding Material Worm bin bedding is the bulk dry carbon material or “browns” in the bin‚ which is essential to balance the wet food waste or “greens”. Good worm bin bedding options include shredded newspaper‚ rehydrated coco coir‚ dry leaves‚ dry grass clippings‚ brown paper bags‚ shredded cardboard‚ or straw. Avoid bleached white paper or glossy paper. Peat moss also is not recommended for worm farm bedding since it’s too acidic. Bedding is used both to start a worm compost bin and added later during routine maintenance. We use a combination of coco coir and shredded newspaper to set up our bin‚ and then switch to newspaper and dry leaves thereafter. We also invested in a basic paper shredder to routinely shred newspaper for our bin. 3) Compost Worms The most popular kind of worms used in worm bins are Eisenia fetida‚ commonly known as “red wigglers“. We get ours from Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. You could also check to see if you happen to live near a worm farm‚ and make a little field trip out of going to pick some up! I recommend starting with 1‚000-2‚000 worms (about 1 to 2 pounds) for a 35-gallon bin or larger‚ and half that for smaller bins. Under the right conditions‚ they can double their population in just 90 days! 4) Dirt or Grit In addition to bedding‚ worms need a little natural grit to help their digestive track. We add few small scoops of our native sandy soil to our worm farm. If you have clay soil‚ add some potting soil instead. 5) Food Scraps Last but not least‚ you’ll need some kitchen scraps or garden trimmings to feed your worms. Do not put moldy‚ rotten food in your worm bin! Keep reading below to learn more about “feeding” your worm farm‚ including the best things to add‚ materials to avoid‚ how much‚ and how often to feed it. We keep this stainless steel kitchen compost crock under our sink to collect food scraps until we’re ready to bring it outside. Location: Where to Keep a Worm Bin Ideally‚ a worm bin should be kept in a sheltered location that is protected from extreme temperature swings. For instance‚ in a shady spot in the yard‚ tucked along a shaded wall or fence‚ on a covered porch‚ or even in a laundry room or other indoor location. It may be necessary to move your worm farm to different locations depending on the time of year. Red wiggler compost worms are most happy and active at temperatures ranging from 55 to 85°F. Outside of that temperature range‚ they will slow down‚ eating and reproducing less. Therefore‚ you may need to feed your worm bin less often during cold winter months to make up for their decreased activity. In extreme cold or heat‚ they may die. Freezing temperatures below 35°F or hot temperatures over 95°F can kill your compost worms. However‚ the outdoor temperature is not the same as the internal temperature inside your worm bin! A well-maintained worm farm with fluffy‚ healthy bedding and castings can naturally buffer and protect itself from temperature swings (to some extent). A compost thermometer is very handy for monitoring the temperature inside the bin. Here on the temperate Central Coast of California‚ our worms happily live outside year round with no added protection. Yet we have experience vermicomposting in much more challenging climates too! We’ll talk about easy ways to protect your bin from excessive heat or freezing conditions in the maintenance section to follow. We usually keep our worm bin in a shady side yard‚ but have kept them inside too! Instructions to Make a Worm Bin 1) Add Air Holes The first step to make a worm bin is to add some air holes to your chosen container‚ which helps with fresh air exchange and prevents the bin from getting too hot or stagnant. Using a quarter-inch drill bit‚ we add a couple dozen air holes around the sides of the bin near the top. See photo below. Be sure to make the holes small enough to keep pests (e.g. rodents) out! Should I add drainage holes to my worm bin? No‚ there are NO holes in the bottom of this DIY worm bin. A well-maintained bin does not need drainage holes since it shouldn’t get overly wet. We’ll keep the moisture and consistency on point with the right balance of bedding to food (discussed in the feeding/maintenance section to follow). Plus‚ if you add holes in the bottom‚ the worms will escape the bin! Some pre-made worm farms come with a drainage catchment‚ but the liquid that seeps from an overly wet bin is considered leachate‚ not true “worm tea” or “compost tea”. Leachate is stagnant and anaerobic (meaning without air) and lacks many of the beneficial microbes found in proper compost tea. See our guide on making aerated compost tea with worm castings to learn more. 2) Add Bedding Next‚ it’s time to partially fill your DIY worm bin with “brown” bedding material such as dry leaves‚ shredded newspaper‚ cardboard‚ dry grass clippings‚ straw‚ and/or cardboard. The amount doesn’t need to be exact‚ but aim to fill the bin about a quarter full. The more fine the bedding material is‚ the faster the worms can break it down. For instance‚ it’s better to use smaller bits of cardboard instead of large chunks. In this example‚ we used a mix of shredded newspaper and coco coir. I really like using coco coir bedding to start a worm bin because it’s has perfect fine fluffy consistency and excellent moisture retention. Unlike peat moss‚ coco coir has a neutral pH – ideal for a worm farm. See more details about using and rehydrating coco coir below. 3) Dampen Bedding Now‚ lightly moisten the bedding with a modest amount of water. A happy‚ healthy worm compost bin should always be slightly damp but never soggy. An easy way to remember is: the ideal consistency is that of a wrung-out sponge. Start small‚ stir‚ assess‚ and then add more water if needed. It’s easier to add more than take it back! Worms love damp environments‚ but also need air because they breathe through their skin. With too much water‚ they can and will drown. That’s why you see earth worms coming to the soil surface when it rains – to get air! Plus‚ an overly wet worm bin is how they get gross and stinky. Rehydrating coco coir Coco coir comes in dehydrated bricks and must be rehydrated and fluffed up before adding it to your worm bin. We already had a 10-pound brick of organic coco coir on hand‚ but I knew it was too much so I cut in half with a saw and only used half (or about 5 pounds for a 35-gallon bin). It would be easier to buy several smaller 1-pound bricks instead. To rehydrate coco coir‚ I recommend putting it in a separate container (just in case you don’t want to use it all) and then add just a little bit of water at a time. Remember‚ the goal is to create damp bedding‚ but not sopping wet! So add some water‚ wait for it to absorb‚ then add more as needed until it’s all broken up and nicely moistened. 4) Add Worms It is important to have your worm bin and bedding ready and waiting before your worms arrive so you can get those buggers put to bed straight away! Like any of us would be after a long road trip or flight‚ they’ll probably be a bit cranky upon arrival and need a snack and a nap‚ pronto. Upon arrival‚ dig a little hole in the damp bedding. Add some food as explained below‚ dump in the worms‚ and cover them up with more bedding. Finally‚ we like to add a damp layer of newspaper on top‚ which helps to keep them in the bin‚ explained more below. Fun facts: Did you know that worms have 5 hearts‚ can live up to 13 years‚ and are hermaphrodites? They can also eat their body weight in food waste per day! Why are my worms trying to escape the bin? When you first set up your new worm compost bin‚ it’s not uncommon for worms to crawl up the sides and try to get out. They’re just a little wigged out by their new environment. To help keep ‘em in and happy‚ their environment needs be how they like it: the right moisture level in the bin (damp but not soggy)‚ enough of the right food to eat‚ and plenty dark. A trick to help prevent worms from crawling out of a new bin is to place a few sheets of damp newspaper on top of the “soil” mound inside the bin. Go back and check the bin after a day. Ours will sometimes cluster around the lid and handle portion of the bin. Put them back under the damp newspaper. Fast forward a couple weeks. If worms are still trying to escape from an established worm bin? That may be a signal that there’s a problem with the bin‚ like not enough oxygen‚ too much acidic food‚ too wet of conditions. Try fluffing up the bin with fresh bedding and/or food‚ or adjust the moisture level as needed. Keeping everyone all tucked in under there! Even with this layer of damp newspaper on top‚ we still found clusters of worms up by the handles of the tote the morning after they were added to the bin. After one more tuck-in‚ they stayed put. 5) Feeding a Worm Bin Now it’s time to start feeding these hungry little babies! The right type and amount of food is key to maintaining a healthy‚ happy‚ and odorless worm compost bin. First let’s talk about about what to feed them‚ and then we’ll discuss amount and frequency. When you set up a new worm bin‚ add just a few handfuls of food at first. Check back in a few days to see how much they’ve eaten and go from there. What Food to Add or Avoid Worms‚ believe it or not‚ do have some preferences in regards to their food. Certain things need to be avoided altogether – for their health and the health of the compost bin. Things that are good or okay to put in worm compost bin include: Almost all fruit and veggie scraps (see the few caveats in the “no” list) Tender garden trimmings Eggshells‚ especially crushed or ground! Spent coffee grounds Spent loose-leaf tea or tea bags (staples removed) Sourdough starter discard (in moderation‚ since it’s wet and goopy!) Avoid adding these things to your worm bin: Meat or dairy products Animal manure Citrus (it’s too acidic‚ we want a well-balanced neutral pH in the bin) Processed foods Moldy‚ rotten food Spicy foods (we found our worms won’t eat hot peppers or radish greens… weirdos) Limit amounts of bread‚ pasta‚ or other starchy foods How Much and How Often Under the optimal conditions‚ worms can eat their body weight per day! That means if you started out with 2 pounds of worms‚ they could theoretically eat through 2 pounds of food scraps per day. As their population grows inside the bin‚ they can consume even more. When it’s cold outside‚ they slow down and consume far less. We prefer to feed our worm bin on a weekly basis‚ storing up food waste in a compost crock under the kitchen sink between feedings. The crock has a carbon filter‚ so it doesn’t get smelly or attract fruit flies. I suggest to err on the conservative side. If you add more more food than your worms can eat in a reasonable amount of time‚ it will rot and go anaerobic instead. That will result in a stinky‚ gross bin… and no one wants that! With time‚ you’ll learn to judge how much food your worms can eat in a week. If after a week later there is no food left at all‚ you can increase how much you’re giving them. Or‚ even introduce a mid-week snack. However‚ if there is a bunch of food leftover‚ you should scale back and feed them less quantity each week. How to Feed a Worm Bin Before adding food each week‚ carefully stir and fluff all of the contents of the worm bin to introduce air‚ assess how much food they’ve eaten since last week‚ and generally check the condition of the bin. To add food‚ gently dig a hole in the bedding‚ put food into the hole‚ and then cover it back up. It’s always good to bury the food in your worm farm by at least a couple inches of bedding‚ which helps the worms find it more quickly and reduces odors or flies. You don’t have to cut up food into smaller bits‚ but it does help them break it down faster! I suggest cutting up large chunks of really dense material‚ like the butt end of a cabbage. In an established worm farm‚ it is best practice to add a handful of “browns” (bedding) each time you add more food scraps‚ or at least once every other week. The dry browns help to offset the higher nitrogen and moisture content of the “greens” – the food or garden waste. This is essential in keeping a well-balanced‚ healthy bin that doesn’t get stinky and gross! For ease‚ we always keep a bucket of dry leaves or shredded newspaper nearby. A nasty-smelling worm bin is usually the result of too much food‚ too little browns‚ too much moisture‚ and too little air. Digging a hole to add food to the bin Cover it back up General Maintenance Thankfully‚ worm farms are pretty fuss-free once you get the hang of them. The main task is to keep them routinely fluffed and fed. Yet it is important to keep an eye on the moisture content as well as extreme temperatures to keep your worms safe and happy. Moisture and air In addition to the right balance of food to bedding‚ the key to maintaining a healthy‚ pleasant-smelling‚ biologically-active worm bin is the right amount of air and moisture. Remember‚ the goal is damp but never soggy. Fluff and stir the bin weekly (or every other week) to break up big clumps and introduce air before adding new food or bedding. Beneficial microbes also enjoy aerobic environments. If your bin seems soggy and stinky‚ stir in more shredded newspaper‚ leaves‚ cardboard bits‚ or other fresh brown material throughout the entire bin to help absorb the moisture. If the bin seems too dry on the other hand‚ give it a light shower with the hose or watering can – but go easy! Start small‚ stir‚ assess‚ and then water. You can always add more water if needed‚ but it’s more difficult to dry out an overly wet bin if you overdo it. One of our larger more established worm bins getting some fresh newspaper stirred in. Worm bins in the winter Worms bins need to be protected from freezing‚ and they also vastly reduce their activity in cold conditions. If temperatures below 32°F are the norm for you during winter‚ plan accordingly. Can you permanently locate or move your worm bin inside a garage‚ shed‚ laundry room‚ or other spare space to help protect them? When we lived in an apartment in Providence‚ Rhode Island (brrrr)‚ our worm farm lived outside our door in a shared uninsulated stairwell. It got *almost* as cold as outside‚ which was single digits in the winter! We wrapped the bin in a large fleece blanket to help insulate it. Wool blankets would be even better. You can also help insulate the bin with deep mulch inside the bin‚ such as a layer of cardboard plus a lot of leaves on top. Ours weren’t all that active in the Rhode Island winters‚ but they survived. Our new homestead has an occasional hard freeze and we often forget to protect them at all. They’re tough little guys. Worm bins in the summer Temperatures over 95F can also kill worms. In the heat of the summer‚ definitely keep your worms in a shady spot with good airflow. If it’s crazy hot out‚ can you move the bin inside to a more cool location? Keep your worm bin away from radiant heat sources‚ like a hot south-facing wall. If you can’t move your bin to a cooler location‚ and it’s projected be over 95°F‚ the following measures can help keep a worm bin cooler: Putting ice cubes or blocks of ice on top. Place a frozen bottle of water (wrapped in newspaper) down inside the bedding. Stir and fluff the bin to release some heat‚ then place damp sheets of newspaper‚ cardboard‚ brown paper bags‚ or burlap on top to cover the bedding and worms‚ and leave the lid off a for a little while. All that said‚ we kept a worm compost bin for years while we lived in Chico‚ CA where summer temperatures were regularly over 100°F and occasionally over 110°F! We lost the worms only once in a prolonged heat wave. Other times‚ some died but some lived‚ so the population bounced back once the weather improved. Back then‚ I didn’t do many of the intervention techniques I just described. I was a busy‚ distracted college student – and the worms did okay. Try not to stress about it too much! If you’re worried about temperature extremes‚ keep in mind that worm bins are perfectly fine to keep indoors year-round. An Instagram follower once told me she hid a worm bin under her kitchen sink for over 6 months before her nay-saying husband even noticed. Back in Chico‚ my environmental studies department had a worm bin right in the office. Worms make very well-behaved office pets! Some damp newspaper (or paper bags) and a shady spot will go a long way during a heat wave! We have just covered are all the key elements you need to make and maintain a simple worm compost bin! I’m sure you’re curious… what about actually using the compost though? How to Harvest Worm Castings Once you’ve had your bin up and running for a few months‚ you can start harvesting small amounts of finished compost – worm castings! With time‚ you can gradually harvest more and more as your population grows and they start turning more of the bin over. We add worm castings to every planting hole when transplanting seedlings outside‚ and the plants love it! Here is our guide on how to harvest worm castings from a worm farm. In short‚ we feed the worms on just one side of the bin for several weeks so they will migrate there. Then we can harvest the castings from the opposite side of the bin‚ getting as few worms as possible. Finally‚ we sift the castings with a DIY screen to catch any large chunks (or worms) and toss them back into the bin. Demonstration video: setting up a new worm bin Check out our YouTube channel for more videos by clicking here! That is how we vermicompost. It’s simple‚ it’s fun‚ and it’s effective! I hope you find this tutorial to be the same‚ and feel ready to start your own worm bin at home. Feel free to ask questions in the comments below‚ and happy composting! Don’t miss these related articles: How to Make Actively Aerated Compost Tea to Fertilize Your Garden How to Build a 3 Bay Compost Bin: Step-by-Step Guide with Photos Hugelkultur: A Natural‚ Cheap Way to Make or Fill Garden Beds Companion Planting 101 (w/ Garden Companion Planting Chart) How to Practice Crop Rotation (Benefits Explained) Print How to Make a Worm Compost Bin (Worm Farm) Vermicomposting‚ or composting with worms‚ is easy‚ fun‚ and sustainable! Read along to learn how to set up and maintain a simple worm compost bin at home‚ including tips on how to feed a worm bin. Keyword diy worm bin‚ how to make a worm bin‚ vermicomposting‚ worm bin‚ worm conpost bin‚ worm farm Cook Time 30 minutes minutes Cost 50 EquipmentA simple bin with a solid lid‚ such as a large durable plastic storage tote. 20-50 gallons recommended‚ durable/heavy duty and not transparentDry bedding material‚ such as shredded newspaper‚ coco coir‚ dry leaves‚ grass clippings‚ shredded cardboard‚ brown paper bags‚ or straw. enough to fill about the bottom 1/4 of the binCompost worms. I start with 1‚000-2‚000 worms (one to two pounds) for a 35 gallon worm binGrit or dirt just a few handfulsFood or garden scrapsRecommended: a drill and 1/4" bit to add air holes to the bin InstructionsMaking a New Worm BinAdd a couple dozen small air holes to the side walls of the bin near the top. We use a 1/4" drill bit. Do NOT add "drainage" holes to the bottom. Fill the bottom quarter of the bin with brown/dry bedding material of choice. We like to use a mix of shredded newspaper and coco coir – which comes in brick form and needs to be rehydrated and fluffed first. Use about 5 pounds of coco coir bricks for a 35 gallon bin. (Don't overwet the coir‚ damp is good – not soggy) Lightly moisten the bedding in the worm bin. Worms like damp environments‚ but not sopping wet – they breathe through their skin and can drown! Too wet of a worm bin also makes it stink. Add compost worms. Dig a hole in the bedding‚ add the worms‚ then bury them. Tip: the worms may try to escape the bin at first. Cover the material in the bin with a layer of damp newspaper or brown paper bags to help keep them in‚ and check the bin every day or two. Collect worms that have gathered around the lid or walls and put them back inside the bedding. Add a small amount of food right away. See "yes" and "no" list for food and routine feeding tips below. Feeding a Worm BinEach time you feed the worm bin‚ dig a small hole and bury the food by at least a couple inches of bedding. Good food for worm bins include most fruit and vegetable scraps‚ crushed eggshells‚ spent coffee grounds‚ loose leaf tea or paper tea bags (staple removed) and tender garden trimmings. Avoid dairy‚ meat‚ processed or moldy/rotten foods‚ citrus (too acidic) or animal manure‚ and limit starchy foods‚ grains or bread. Under ideal conditions‚ worms can eat their body weight in a day (so 1 pound of worms can eat 1 pound of food waste). Yet they slow down during cool conditions‚ so err on the conservative side. We prefer to feed our worm bin weekly. You'll learn with time how much your worms can eat in a week. If you add too much food before they can eat it‚ it will rot and stink. Before adding food each week‚ carefully stir and fluff all of the contents of the worm bin to introduce air‚ assess how much food they’ve eaten since last week‚ and generally check the condition of the bin. In an established worm farm‚ it is best practice to add a handful of “browns” (bedding) each time you add more food scraps‚ or at least once every other week.Cutting or breaking up large chunks of food will help the worms break it down faster.See the full written blogpost for more ongoing maintenance tips‚ including how to keep your bin the right moisture level‚ and how to protect it during extreme heat or freezing. NotesNote that temperatures below 35F or above 95F (internal bin temperature) can kill compost worms. See the written blogpost for tips on how to keep a worm bin cool or warm. Suggestions include (not limited to): moving it indoors or to a more protected location‚ keeping it in the shade‚ wrapping it with wool blankets‚ using deep mulch inside the bin for insulation‚ adding frozen water bottles to keep it cool‚ and more.  Did you enjoy this article? Want to hear more? Stay in touch! Sign up below to receive weekly updates on new posts from Homestead and Chill. The post Vermicomposting 101: How to Make a Simple Worm Compost Bin appeared first on Homestead and Chill.