Paisley celebrated his birthday this week, after performing the national anthem before a record-tying, 18-inning Dodgers World Series game. Continue reading…

Michelle Obama Launches New Book "The Look" About Fashion... and Even Then She's STILL Complaining

President Donald Trump drew thunderous applause after announcing a sweeping pay hike for all members of the U.S. Armed Forces during his whirlwind tour of Asia. Trump made the declaration Tuesday aboard the USS George Washington aircraft carrier in Yokosuka, Japan, while visiting Japanese Prime Minister Sanae Takaichi. Takaichi, 64,...

By Wrench Monkey Sidekick (A New Article Weekly) Tired of shelling out $100+ at the shop every time your rear tire wears down from those spirited canyon carves or daily commutes? Changing your own motorcycle rear tire isn’t just a money-saver—it’s a rite of passage that boosts your confidence behind the bars. With the right tools and a couple of hours in your garage, you can handle this job solo. We’re talking a tubeless tire here (most modern bikes), but we’ll flag tubed variations where needed. Remember, every bike’s a snowflake—consult your owner’s manual for model-specific quirks like axle torque specs or swingarm adjustments. This guide keeps you safe and rolling smooth. Let’s break it down step by step. Pro tip: Do this on a cool bike, in a well-ventilated space, and with a buddy if you’re new to it. Tools and Materials You’ll Need Gear up like you’re prepping for a track day. Here’s the essentials: Jack or paddock stand: To lift the rear end. Socket set and torque wrench: For axle and caliper bolts (torque to spec!). Valve core tool: For deflating/inflating. Bead breaker tool or C-clamps: To pop the tire bead loose. Tire irons (2-3): Long metal levers for prying. Spray lubricant: Silicone-based or Windex for slippery beads. Bead lube: Soap, hand sanitizer, or dedicated lube for the new tire. Air compressor: With a chuck for motorcycle valves. Rim protectors: Plastic inserts to avoid scratching your rims. New tire: Match size, load rating, and speed index to your bike. Check rotation direction (arrow on sidewall). Optional: Balance beads or weights if you’re going full pro. Safety First: Don’t Be That Guy Wear gloves and eye pro: Tires can snap like a bad breakup. Bike on center stand or securely jacked: No wobbles mid-job. Deflate fully before breaking beads: Explosive air release = bad day. Torque everything: Loose axles lead to vibes or worse. Test ride short and slow: Check for wobbles before hitting the highway. If your bike has ABS or traction control, disconnect sensors per manual to avoid codes. Warning: Botched installs can cause blowouts. If in doubt, hit the shop. Step-by-Step: From Worn to Winning Park on level ground, kill the engine, and let it cool. Shift to neutral. Raise the rear wheel off the ground using a jack under the swingarm or a paddock stand. Secure it—no tip-overs. Loosen the axle nut (usually 17-24mm socket) but don’t remove yet. For chain-driven bikes: Slack the chain by loosening the adjusters on both sides of the swingarm. Slip the chain off the sprocket (use a chain tool if rusty). Remove the brake caliper: Two bolts usually (14mm). Hang it with a zip tie—don’t let it dangle on the hose. Slide out the axle (note washer/spacer order—snap a pic). Pull the wheel back and off the swingarm. If it’s a belt drive, just note tension adjustments later. Boom—wheel’s free. Lay it flat on a towel to protect the rim. Step 2: Deflate and Break the Bead Time to evict the old rubber. Unscrew the valve cap. Use the valve core tool to remove the core—air rushes out like a sigh of relief. Hold tight; it’s forceful. If tubed: Unbolt the valve stem from the rim and pull the tube out later. Break the bead (seal between tire and rim): Wedge your bead breaker between tire and rim, hammer it around both sides until you hear pops. No breaker? Use C-clamps: Clamp over the sidewall, tighten to squash the bead into the rim’s drop center, then move 6-8 inches and repeat. Spray lube to keep it from re-sticking. Flip the wheel and repeat on the other side. Stubborn bead? More lube and patience. Deflating the tire and breaking the bead Breaking the bead with a tool Step 3: Pry Off the Old Tire The fun part—demolition derby for your rubber. Insert a tire iron under one side of the bead (near the valve, but not on it). Pry up and over the rim edge. Hold it with one hand. Add a second iron 4-6 inches away, pry and hook over the rim. Work around clockwise, adding irons as needed (like leapfrogging). Use rim protectors to baby that pretty rim. Once one side’s off, flip the wheel. Repeat on the other side. The tire should flop free—wiggle if needed. Yank the old tire off. If tubed, fish out the tube and inspect for leaks. Clean the rim: Wipe out dirt, old lube, or debris with a rag. Inspect for damage—dents mean shop time. Prying off the old tire with tire irons Using tire levers to remove the tire Step 4: Mount the New Tire Fresh rubber incoming—handle with care. Lube the new tire’s beads generously with bead lube. Note the rotation arrow (must match forward wheel spin) and red balance dot (align with valve stem). If tubed: Insert the new tube (deflated) into the tire, tuck the valve through the rim hole, and bolt the stem. Start one side: Position the tire’s bead under the rim lip opposite the valve. Use tire irons to pry the bead up and over, working around. It’ll fight—lube helps. Flip and do the other side. The tire should seat loosely in the drop center. Reinstall the valve core. Hook up the compressor and inflate to 10-15 PSI. Bounce the wheel; listen for the “pop” as beads seat. If not seating, let air out, lube more, and try again—ferrule the bead with a spoon or mallet. Top to full pressure (check sidewall or manual, e.g., 36-42 PSI rear). Spin the wheel: No wobbles? Good. Add balance beads if you’re fancy. Lubricating the new tire Aligning the balance dot and mounting the tire Inflating to seat the bead Step 5: Reinstall the Wheel Reverse the removal, with precision. Slide the wheel back into the swingarm, aligning sprocket/belt with chain. Insert axle from the left (usually), add spacers/washers in order. Reattach caliper and torque bolts. For chain: Loop it on, adjust tension (manual spec, usually 1-1.5 inches slack), and torque axle nut (e.g., 80-100 ft-lbs—check yours). Belt? Re-tension per manual. Lower the bike, double-check torque, and inflate to riding pressure. Step 6: Final Checks and Break-In Spin the wheel by hand: Smooth? Brakes grab evenly? Short test ride: 1-2 miles, feel for vibes. Re-check pressure after 50 miles. Balance if needed: Shops do static balancing cheap, or use a DIY stand. Troubleshooting: Bead won’t seat? More lube and short bursts of air. Wobble? Check alignment or balance. Chain too tight? Readjust or lube up.Final inflation and readiness check Wrapping Up: Ride On, Wrench Monkey There you have it—your rear tire transformed, wallet intact, and skills leveled up. Next time you’re dodging potholes, thank your inner mechanic. Got a cruiser, sportbike, or ADV? The basics hold, but tweak for your ride. Share your war stories in the comments—we’re all in this two-wheeled family.

Next year's Radar Festival takes place at Manchester's O2 Victoria Warehouse from July 31 to August 2

The memo was written in 1991 from a Muslim Brotherhood member in the U.S. to others in the group’s leadership. It lays out a plan for “civilizational jihad” in America. The Explanatory Memorandum by the Muslim Brotherhood  It is a memorandum written in 1991 in Arabic. It is attributed to Muhammad Akram. He was a member of the […] The post The 1991 Muslim Brotherhood Strategy of Civilizational Jihad appeared first on www.independentsentinel.com.

It’s been 20 years since Hurricane Katrina devastated the United States Gulf Coast and left New Orleans with catastrophic flooding as the levees broke. Katrina reached Category 5 status. Two decades later, Jamaica is bracing for another Category 5 hurricane, Hurricane Melissa, predicted to be the worst in the island’s history. ABC News shared a haunting video of the eye of the storm on Instagram. “The U.S. Air Force Reserve’s 53rd Weather Reconnaissance Squadron, aka the ‘Hurricane Hunters,’ flew into the eye of Hurricane Melissa on Monday to collect data for the National Hurricane Center.“Melissa, a powerful Category 5 storm, is bearing down on Jamaica and is forecast to be the worst storm in the island’s history.” View this post on Instagram A post shared by ABC News (@abcnews) Hurricane Melissa Left Many People Stranded As Hurricane Melissa approached, air travel stopped, leaving travelers and locals stranded on the island. It’s a terrifying time when the best we can do is hope and pray the storm isn’t as powerful as predicted. ABC News’ video is a haunting look at just how beautiful a storm can look before wreaking havoc on Earth. “Breathtaking and scary all at once. Good luck, Jamaica. God speed,” a follower noted. “Amazing how calm this monstrous storm seems from above,” another person agreed. “Heartbreaking to see this level of devastation unfolding,” another person shared. “Hoping everyone in Jamaica stays safe and gets the support they need.” Hurricane Melissa reminded this person of just how devastating these storms can be. “Bro I just watched hell or high water on Netflix about Katrina in Louisiana which. Makes this that much more scary,” they wrote. Many left very simple comments of prayer and life. Like this person who wrote, “Praying for Jamaica.” This story’s featured image can be found here. The post Watch Incredible Footage Of US Air Force “Hurricane Hunters” Flying Straight Into Cat 5 Melissa appeared first on InspireMore.

The Bahamas were once crawling with pirates, but have always been crawling with lizards. Do the two have anything in common? Well, much like the old trope of pirates missing legs and hands, many of the lizards of the Bahamas are too. The reason we know this is because there happened to be the right […] The post Peg–Legged Lizards Lead a Pirate’s Life On Caribbean Islands appeared first on Good News Network.