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DIY Rear Tire Revolution: Swap Your Motorcycle’s Backside Like a Pro
By Wrench Monkey Sidekick (A New Article Weekly)
Tired of shelling out $100+ at the shop every time your rear tire wears down from those spirited canyon carves or daily commutes? Changing your own motorcycle rear tire isn’t just a money-saver—it’s a rite of passage that boosts your confidence behind the bars. With the right tools and a couple of hours in your garage, you can handle this job solo.
We’re talking a tubeless tire here (most modern bikes), but we’ll flag tubed variations where needed. Remember, every bike’s a snowflake—consult your owner’s manual for model-specific quirks like axle torque specs or swingarm adjustments.
This guide keeps you safe and rolling smooth. Let’s break it down step by step. Pro tip: Do this on a cool bike, in a well-ventilated space, and with a buddy if you’re new to it.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Gear up like you’re prepping for a track day. Here’s the essentials:
Jack or paddock stand: To lift the rear end.
Socket set and torque wrench: For axle and caliper bolts (torque to spec!).
Valve core tool: For deflating/inflating.
Bead breaker tool or C-clamps: To pop the tire bead loose.
Tire irons (2-3): Long metal levers for prying.
Spray lubricant: Silicone-based or Windex for slippery beads.
Bead lube: Soap, hand sanitizer, or dedicated lube for the new tire.
Air compressor: With a chuck for motorcycle valves.
Rim protectors: Plastic inserts to avoid scratching your rims.
New tire: Match size, load rating, and speed index to your bike. Check rotation direction (arrow on sidewall).
Optional: Balance beads or weights if you’re going full pro.
Safety First: Don’t Be That Guy
Wear gloves and eye pro: Tires can snap like a bad breakup.
Bike on center stand or securely jacked: No wobbles mid-job.
Deflate fully before breaking beads: Explosive air release = bad day.
Torque everything: Loose axles lead to vibes or worse.
Test ride short and slow: Check for wobbles before hitting the highway.
If your bike has ABS or traction control, disconnect sensors per manual to avoid codes.
Warning: Botched installs can cause blowouts. If in doubt, hit the shop.
Step-by-Step: From Worn to Winning
Park on level ground, kill the engine, and let it cool. Shift to neutral.
Raise the rear wheel off the ground using a jack under the swingarm or a paddock stand. Secure it—no tip-overs.
Loosen the axle nut (usually 17-24mm socket) but don’t remove yet.
For chain-driven bikes: Slack the chain by loosening the adjusters on both sides of the swingarm. Slip the chain off the sprocket (use a chain tool if rusty).
Remove the brake caliper: Two bolts usually (14mm). Hang it with a zip tie—don’t let it dangle on the hose.
Slide out the axle (note washer/spacer order—snap a pic). Pull the wheel back and off the swingarm. If it’s a belt drive, just note tension adjustments later.
Boom—wheel’s free. Lay it flat on a towel to protect the rim.
Step 2: Deflate and Break the Bead
Time to evict the old rubber.
Unscrew the valve cap. Use the valve core tool to remove the core—air rushes out like a sigh of relief. Hold tight; it’s forceful.
If tubed: Unbolt the valve stem from the rim and pull the tube out later.
Break the bead (seal between tire and rim): Wedge your bead breaker between tire and rim, hammer it around both sides until you hear pops. No breaker? Use C-clamps: Clamp over the sidewall, tighten to squash the bead into the rim’s drop center, then move 6-8 inches and repeat. Spray lube to keep it from re-sticking.
Flip the wheel and repeat on the other side. Stubborn bead? More lube and patience.
Deflating the tire and breaking the bead Breaking the bead with a tool
Step 3: Pry Off the Old Tire
The fun part—demolition derby for your rubber.
Insert a tire iron under one side of the bead (near the valve, but not on it). Pry up and over the rim edge. Hold it with one hand.
Add a second iron 4-6 inches away, pry and hook over the rim. Work around clockwise, adding irons as needed (like leapfrogging). Use rim protectors to baby that pretty rim.
Once one side’s off, flip the wheel. Repeat on the other side. The tire should flop free—wiggle if needed.
Yank the old tire off. If tubed, fish out the tube and inspect for leaks.
Clean the rim: Wipe out dirt, old lube, or debris with a rag. Inspect for damage—dents mean shop time. Prying off the old tire with tire irons Using tire levers to remove the tire
Step 4: Mount the New Tire
Fresh rubber incoming—handle with care.
Lube the new tire’s beads generously with bead lube. Note the rotation arrow (must match forward wheel spin) and red balance dot (align with valve stem).
If tubed: Insert the new tube (deflated) into the tire, tuck the valve through the rim hole, and bolt the stem.
Start one side: Position the tire’s bead under the rim lip opposite the valve. Use tire irons to pry the bead up and over, working around. It’ll fight—lube helps.
Flip and do the other side. The tire should seat loosely in the drop center.
Reinstall the valve core. Hook up the compressor and inflate to 10-15 PSI. Bounce the wheel; listen for the “pop” as beads seat. If not seating, let air out, lube more, and try again—ferrule the bead with a spoon or mallet.
Top to full pressure (check sidewall or manual, e.g., 36-42 PSI rear). Spin the wheel: No wobbles? Good. Add balance beads if you’re fancy.
Lubricating the new tire Aligning the balance dot and mounting the tire Inflating to seat the bead
Step 5: Reinstall the Wheel
Reverse the removal, with precision.
Slide the wheel back into the swingarm, aligning sprocket/belt with chain.
Insert axle from the left (usually), add spacers/washers in order.
Reattach caliper and torque bolts.
For chain: Loop it on, adjust tension (manual spec, usually 1-1.5 inches slack), and torque axle nut (e.g., 80-100 ft-lbs—check yours).
Belt? Re-tension per manual.
Lower the bike, double-check torque, and inflate to riding pressure.
Step 6: Final Checks and Break-In
Spin the wheel by hand: Smooth? Brakes grab evenly?
Short test ride: 1-2 miles, feel for vibes. Re-check pressure after 50 miles.
Balance if needed: Shops do static balancing cheap, or use a DIY stand.
Troubleshooting: Bead won’t seat? More lube and short bursts of air. Wobble? Check alignment or balance. Chain too tight? Readjust or lube up.Final inflation and readiness check
Wrapping Up: Ride On, Wrench Monkey
There you have it—your rear tire transformed, wallet intact, and skills leveled up. Next time you’re dodging potholes, thank your inner mechanic. Got a cruiser, sportbike, or ADV? The basics hold, but tweak for your ride. Share your war stories in the comments—we’re all in this two-wheeled family.
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